This Past Weekend's Project...Never Again

rexus31 said:
Yes they did. Direct bolt on. I needed to modify the pig tails but later years may not have to.

The motors are Dorman 742-300 and 742-301

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-742-300
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-742-301
Click to expand...

Glad you made it through that ordeal successfully Scott and trust that you are healed by now! Just one question, it isn't clear from the descriptions on Summit for those parts what the difference is between the two part numbers - one for the left, other for the right side or ??
 
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This has been on the list of things to do since day one. Thanks once again for your information. My rear motors need help going up and down. Did you gain any tips or tricks in the removal and installation or is it just plainly a PITA
 
Zymurgy said:
This has been on the list of things to do since day one. Thanks once again for your information. My rear motors need help going up and down. Did you gain any tips or tricks in the removal and installation or is it just plainly a PITA
Click to expand...

No real tips or tricks. Just make sure the spring on the regulator is wound correctly before you just pop the motor out. I supported my regulators with a 2x4 to make sure everything didn't slam down when I popped the motor out. Once confident the regulator stayed put, I removed the 2x4 and proceeded. With you being a tall guy, I'm sure it will be an even bigger PITA!
 
From the looks of the rest of the car I'm going to guess that the regulators looked better than new when you got done, but I'm going to ask anyway, did you take the regulators out and clean them up and re-grease them ?
 
rexus31 said:
No real tips or tricks. Just make sure the spring on the regulator is wound correctly before you just pop the motor out. I supported my regulators with a 2x4 to make sure everything didn't slam down when I popped the motor out. Once confident the regulator stayed put, I removed the 2x4 and proceeded. With you being a tall guy, I'm sure it will be an even bigger PITA!
Click to expand...

You absolutely positively do not want to get in the way of that clock spring unwinding.

I don't know how they are on the rear of a 2 door car but on my 4 door I drilled an access hole over each bolt on the motor so you can get a 1/4 drive socket on them and remove the motor without unbolting the regulator from the door. Once you have access to the mounting bolts, you can swap motors quicker than you can get the door panel off.

As long as the regulator stays attached to the door/car, the glass counterbalances the spring and no bloodshed will occur.

If you can access the motor mounting bolts in the rear without performing the minor surgery I do on mine, all the better.

Kevin
 
twostick said:
You absolutely positively do not want to get in the way of that clock spring unwinding.

I don't know how they are on the rear of a 2 door car but on my 4 door I drilled an access hole over each bolt on the motor so you can get a 1/4 drive socket on them and remove the motor without unbolting the regulator from the door. Once you have access to the mounting bolts, you can swap motors quicker than you can get the door panel off.

As long as the regulator stays attached to the door/car, the glass counterbalances the spring and no bloodshed will occur.

If you can access the motor mounting bolts in the rear without performing the minor surgery I do on mine, all the better.

Kevin
Click to expand...

On my car, the motor bolts were accessible. I was not interested in removing the regulators. That would have made the job that much more difficult.
 
rexus31 said:
The left quarter window (power) on my '65 300 'vert stopped working. As a result, I bought all new motors (4) from Summit and planned on replacing them all as I used working originals when I restored my car 5 years go. Fortunately, I did not have to remove the regulators to remove the motors. With the windows in the up position, the regulators did not move. Anyway, I had to remove the entire rear interior to get at the motors and trying to clock them so the bolt holes lines up was a royal PITA! The limited space in the interior coupled with 90 degree heat made the job that much more delightful. It took me 6 hours to complete and I woke up sore as hell from the various body contortions to perform the work. Like the title says: NEVER AGAIN! I'm hoping the fronts are easier.
Click to expand...
That soreness doesn't improve az we age Scott. I hit #81 this passed Memorial Day weekend Pal. I had to gut the rear portion of the interior in My '83 Plymouth GT Scamp for some changes I'm doing and I waz still aicky yesterday and here we are almost a week later in June. I'm thinking seriously of working on my toys with my check book in the future, Jer
 
rexus31 said:
The left quarter window (power) on my '65 300 'vert stopped working. As a result, I bought all new motors (4) from Summit and planned on replacing them all as I used working originals when I restored my car 5 years go. Fortunately, I did not have to remove the regulators to remove the motors. With the windows in the up position, the regulators did not move. Anyway, I had to remove the entire rear interior to get at the motors and trying to clock them so the bolt holes lines up was a royal PITA! The limited space in the interior coupled with 90 degree heat made the job that much more delightful. It took me 6 hours to complete and I woke up sore as hell from the various body contortions to perform the work. Like the title says: NEVER AGAIN! I'm hoping the fronts are easier.
Click to expand...
That soreness doesn't improve az we age Scott. I hit #81 this passed Memorial Day weekend Pal. I had to gut the rear portion of the interior in My '83 Plymouth GT Scamp for some changes I'm doing and I waz stIll acky Yesterday and here we are almost a week later in June
 
After dealing with this exact same thing on past convertibles I am so grateful my present one has wind up glass. I can lower all four windows on my Polara faster than the power windows on Jezebelle. :wtf:
 
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