Turn signal switch on Newport
- Thread starter Mopardik
- Start date
don't really have an answer for you, but there should be significant resistance where the cam pivots in the switch, enough that it takes the pin on the back of the steering wheel to activate it. without taking it apart and seeing it in person i would guess either a poor quality cam or an installation issue.
saylor
Senior Member
tell me what we're working with and ill put up an explode-o-view .. is it manual or auto? power steering? telescoping column? etc? ill find it in the manual...
I know that pulling it apart will probably tell all, but I just wanted to try to have the right parts on hand before I did that, so I can get it done all at once.
It is a '68 Newport with an automatic with a column shifter. It's a power steering car, and doesn't have a tilt or telescoping column. Thanks for any info you can provide, saylor.
It is a '68 Newport with an automatic with a column shifter. It's a power steering car, and doesn't have a tilt or telescoping column. Thanks for any info you can provide, saylor.
saylor
Senior Member
saylor
Senior Member
1966newport
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my 68 300 has been that way since 1996, I just hold the signal on
saylor
Senior Member
lol my fury is the same way too . . . I guess that part goes bad . . .
Yeah guys, that's exactly what I'm doing right now. LOL! However, it is kind of a pain sometimes, and being that I'm a staunch proponent of the lost art of actually USING the damn turn signals, I need it fixed! Thanks a bunch for the help saylor, those diagrams help me to know what I'm working with beforehand. Gonna get this thing fixed (one way or another) in the next week or two.
BillGrissom
Active Member
At different times, I replaced the whole switch assembly or just the cam in my 65 Newport and 69 Dart. I recall that the plastic cam does help hold the position by clicking into place. A rod on the steering wheel bumps an arm, which unclicks it. So, yes your cam alone could be the problem, though usually it is just the ears that break off. Until you pull the wheel you won't know. At least buy a cam, because you will need it eventually anyway. It is much cheaper and easier to replace just the cam. I recall the early ones (my 65) are PN "SM9" and later ones (my 69) have 2 wires on them and are maybe "SM12". You used to buy them in Help packs at auto parts. Once I put a new switch for my 69 in my 65. I just didn't use the extra wires. I also recall using a later cam on an early switch. You can buy the cams on ebay <$15.
The whole switch assembly costs ~$100 new today. I recently got one cheap at PickNPull, from a ~89 Dodge motorhome. Those tend to keep the same switches and connectors much longer, and many pickers overlook them. When you swap one, don't cut the connectors off like most fools do. The pins are easy to release from the housings. And save the housings since you will never find them new. One guy currently asking on FABO thinks he can buy one.
The whole switch assembly costs ~$100 new today. I recently got one cheap at PickNPull, from a ~89 Dodge motorhome. Those tend to keep the same switches and connectors much longer, and many pickers overlook them. When you swap one, don't cut the connectors off like most fools do. The pins are easy to release from the housings. And save the housings since you will never find them new. One guy currently asking on FABO thinks he can buy one.
Thanks Bill! Lots of good info there as well. I'm going to get the cam assy. and hope that will do it, as it is much cheaper. I'll probably try to tackle it this week or weekend. It will be much easier now with all this info you guys have provided. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again to all!
Just an update here, I now have fully working turn signals!
So, I bought the cam and the switch because that way I would definitely have the right part on hand, right? Wrong! It turns out mine has the Saginaw column, which of course required the switch I didn't have, and is of course, double the price! :eusa_doh:Oh well, live and learn I guess. The other parts are returnable, and on their way back. At the end of the day, a couple hours work (and a couple days waiting on parts), and about $130 later, I can sit in a turn lane without having to hold the damn stalk on! Thanks again to everyone for the help on here!
ccasion14:
So, I bought the cam and the switch because that way I would definitely have the right part on hand, right? Wrong! It turns out mine has the Saginaw column, which of course required the switch I didn't have, and is of course, double the price! :eusa_doh:Oh well, live and learn I guess. The other parts are returnable, and on their way back. At the end of the day, a couple hours work (and a couple days waiting on parts), and about $130 later, I can sit in a turn lane without having to hold the damn stalk on! Thanks again to everyone for the help on here!
ccasion14:
Now you are the "go to person" for this repair. LOL! Good job!!!
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
There should be placed in the banner an area where any members who are the pinnacle of information of one unique specialty are featured.
1978NYB: Council Certified FCBO Expert Example of Attempts to Unobtainable 1978 Windshield Wiper Bushing, and How He Learned To Love The Bomb.
1978NYB: Council Certified FCBO Expert Example of Attempts to Unobtainable 1978 Windshield Wiper Bushing, and How He Learned To Love The Bomb.
Last edited:
Yep, I've earned that title! LOL!!!
Thanks! But buying 2 wrong parts and taking 3 days to complete the task hardly qualifies me as the "go to person" for anything, though. :icon_eyes: Still, I took a drive this evening, and just relished sitting in turn lanes with the signal on. Yes, I am a dork, but it's the simple things in life...:icon_mrgreen:
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