Upgraded to a 40 amp subwoofer....

Electrical & Ignition

  1. Fast Eddie B

    Fast Eddie B Well-Known Member FCBO Gold Member

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    now I have to upgrade the 60 amp gennie or I won’t be able to run the car at night!

    I hoping this is a simple affair and someone here has done it. It is a ‘60 Fury with stock everything 318 poly.

    Any thoughts?
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  2. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Since you have already done the ignition conversion, why not just go to an alternator, pretty simple conversion. Note, you should already have done this as the generator will fry you electronic ignition setup. Be sure to use an alternator with an electronic regulator. They are static suppressed, the generator and mechanical regulator are static generators which are not kind to electronics. Nice clean engine by the way.

    Dave
     
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  3. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    You could also change to a Power Master alternator that looks like a generator.
     
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  4. Fast Eddie B

    Fast Eddie B Well-Known Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Any old alternator work? I have a 100 amp Chevy lying around. As long as it fits i guess it will work?
     
  5. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    It will wire up differently than a Mopar. If it has an internal regulator, it should be compatible with your electronics as the internally regulated units were set up for electronic ignition. Some GM alternators were self energizing, some were not, but all of the internally regulated units should work. Then the challenge is getting the belt to line up, certainly doable. Purists will scream but if you have a limited budget, this option will get you by.

    Dave
     
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  6. mr. fix it

    mr. fix it Old Man with a Hat

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    Was just reading this thread & thought the same thing :)
     
  7. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    If you decide to go with the GM 100amp alternator, you will also want to go to a heavier wire from the alternator output. Running a second wire the same size as the original to the positive battery cable lug on the the starter in this case would probably be the best option. This will do two things, first it will give you a greater amperage potential to the battery for charging and second it will bypass half the load thru the ammeter so you do not fry it with the increased load. Good Luck.

    Dave
     
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  8. Fast Eddie B

    Fast Eddie B Well-Known Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Not worried about originality. Custom interior at this point. Easy is good.

    One wire GM sounds like: one wire to battery (big one), one wire to ignition, remove the regulator and disconnect the ammeter and gen light? Already have a voltmeter. Checked the alternator I have. From a 63 327 and I think only 37 amp and still uses regulator so I’ll punt on that idea.
     
  9. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    The circuit to the idiot light will be disabled with the regulator removed, be sure to tape those wires. A one wire GM alternator only uses the output lead from the alternator to the battery. This unit self energizes when the engine is started and the pulley starts to turn. See www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdGOOdl5R5g. If you have an after market ammeter, it should be replaced with a voltmeter so you have some idea if your alternator is charging.

    Dave
     
  10. Fast Eddie B

    Fast Eddie B Well-Known Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Done. Easy. Thanks.
     
  11. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Your Welcome.

    Dave
     
  12. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    I think I forgot to mention that a fusible link should be installed in the lead from the alternator to the battery. That protects the wire in the event it gets shorted somehow or the alternator takes a dump and goes to ground from internal shorts.

    Dave
     
  13. Fast Eddie B

    Fast Eddie B Well-Known Member FCBO Gold Member

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    20 amp? 30 amp? What about the regulator? Just disconnect and wrap up the ends?
     
  14. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Tape off the connections for the old regulator, that gives you the option of putting the old generator and regulator back on if you decided to put the car back original some day.
    The usual rule of thumb is that if you run, say a #10 wire to the battery, the fusible link will be two sizes of fusible link wire smaller. This will depend somewhat on what amperage the alternator is, but usually a #10 wire should be adequate when used with a #14 fusible link. Fusible links are not rated by amperage.

    Dave
     
  15. Fast Eddie B

    Fast Eddie B Well-Known Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I installed the one wire gm alternator, ran the cable direct to the battery and taped off the regulator connections but nothing. Car is dead as in nothing from the ignition.

    I’m thinking I need to connect some of the regulator leads to each other to make this work.

    Any ideas?
     
  16. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    I think you are correct. The red lead that was wired to the generator supplies power to the smaller red lead coming off the voltage regulator. The black lead is hooked to the battery power. I think you need to hook the black lead from the power source, to the small red lead, preferably with a fusible link.

    Wiring diagram is available at www.mymopar.com. Wiring diagrams are in the tools/reference section.

    Dave
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2020
  17. Davea Lux

    Davea Lux Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Wiring diagram attached, click on ,Mail0013.pdf, not the icon.
     

    Attached Files:

  18. Fast Eddie B

    Fast Eddie B Well-Known Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Well....hooked up the little red to the power side of the regulator. No change. So I dug into it and went back over what else I changed. Got thinking about those pretty big leads I took off the ammeter in the dash. It looks stock, maybe was an accessory, but nothing in the diagram. Threw a fusible link between the contacts, left the little red wire connected to power. Voila, it fired up. Ran great. Got to 14.1v. Amp light stuck on on dash. Disco’d power to little red wire. All good. Amp light now.

    now, everything working but headlights! Have that narrowed down to the high beam switch.


    I’ll debug this aft.

    great wiring diagram by the way. Much better than the shop manual.
     
  19. Fast Eddie B

    Fast Eddie B Well-Known Member FCBO Gold Member

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    All done. Mopar generator to GM alternator. Needed the widely available adjustable bracket. Had to replace the crap bolts with grade 8’s so I could tighten it enough to hold. Instructions were as simple as I got here and on YouTube. Just have to connect the #2 slot on the alt to the main battery lead and lead to battery from the alt. Horn might not work in this conversion yet because I left the horn relay lead disconnected to power. Was tapped into the regulator. But I’ll get that done. On this car I had a gen light, it’s disconnected. And an ammeter. I disconnected the ammeter gauge because apparently they are not ‘safe’. In doing so out I had to connect the ammeter leads together to get power behind the firewall. Wasn’t in any wiring diagram. Headlights originally didn’t work but that is a completely unrelated issue.

    Case closed!

    Thanks for the help folks.