What are your favorite brands for heater cores and blower motors? I'm going to want both soon.

[Gerald Morris]

Seasons' Greetings Moparians!

Gertrude's blower motor came back to reluctant life only a month after we started driving her last Fall, though the core then held up and served us. This week, in addition to other aggravations, I noticed the unmistakable smell of hot glycol solution and narrowed it down to the heater this evening with the Babushka's help, as I turned the coolant flow off and on a couple times to satisfy us both that yes, we smell hot coolant when the heater is ON. Oh Joy!

I found tonight quite a range in part prices for heater cores and blower motors. I also see that they fit 1965-68 models, all the Slab Side C bodies to wit. This further encourages me, as I HAVE a GOOD heater blower and core in Mathilda still, which I might start with as my bottom expense, merely increasing labor time to extract them, BUT, how LONG will these serve? Would I be better off just buying new parts for this purpose? I suppose some effort with Mathilda must be made to answer those questions... maybe NOT. time is premium here!

So, do any of you Wise Elders know who makes GOOD parts? I don't relish headstanding in front of my dash and instrument panels particularly, though I thank the Lord I can still do these stunts when needed. The instructions from my FSM look pretty easy as far as they go. Is this right?

I have simple, non-AC heaters in both vehicles, fairly similar if not identical. The controls actually work in Gertrude too! Nice bonus there.

May your Superior Wisdom illuminate my humble Thread now.

 

[halifaxhops]

The heater box guy will hook you up, he only does mopar.

 

[Big_John]

From what I've seen, based on the motors I've held in my hands and what I've seen on the internet, all the motors are the same, very likely coming from the same manufacturer with different brand names on the cardboard box. I went through this looking for heater motors a while ago.

So, unless you want to pop for an NOS motor, (big$$) go for the best price and don't worry too much about who's name is on the box. I think the quality (although I have not had a replacement apart) is about par with the stuff they bolted on the cars on the assembly line back when. In fact, I'll go as far as saying the OEM motors were probably made by the same manufacturer that make the replacements now.... Just probably USA made at the time. Regarding if they are made offshore, they are very basic DC motors that have been made for a lot of years and they weren't exactly what I would call "precision built" in the 60's. I have had old USA built motors apart and they never impressed me.

 

[CBODY67]

Look for price but also warranty and return policies. Plus shipping charges and such. IF you can get them locally, so much the better.

 

[Gerald Morris]

From what I've seen, based on the motors I've held in my hands and what I've seen on the internet, all the motors are the same, very likely coming from the same manufacturer with different brand names on the cardboard box. I went through this looking for heater motors a while ago.

So, unless you want to pop for an NOS motor, (big$$) go for the best price and don't worry too much about who's name is on the box. I think the quality (although I have not had a replacement apart) is about par with the stuff they bolted on the cars on the assembly line back when. In fact, I'll go as far as saying the OEM motors were probably made by the same manufacturer that make the replacements now.... Just probably USA made at the time. Regarding if they are made offshore, they are very basic DC motors that have been made for a lot of years and they weren't exactly what I would call "precision built" in the 60's. I have had old USA built motors apart and they never impressed me.

You type Wise and True Words Big John. I've seen quite a spread on prices, and yes, junky DC motor tech hasn't evolved much in 60 years. I'll pull what I have in Mathilda first, and maybe, just MAAAYBEEE send this squealer to the motor shop, OR, DIM here. I'm good w electric motors, have been since I was 8 yrs old. Alas, TODAY I need to reseal a power steering pump, I got the kit from Edelmann, FWTW.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Look for price but also warranty and return policies. Plus shipping charges and such. IF you can get them locally, so much the better.

Wise Words again here, and I thank you!

My most local supplier likely will be my First Resort, namely, Mathilda. The heater worked just dandy in her. I noticed last night that ALUMINUM heater cores run dirt cheap, but COPPER ones go around $150. I'll pull what's in Gertrude, replace that with Mathilda's core, IFF it passes my inspection first. I knew a very gifted old artist with radiators and heater cores who made a core for me in 1997, but he just feeds worms these sad days, as does the excellent old transmission mechanic who rebuilt our tranny 4 TurkeyDaze ago. Hell, people around this Barrio now pester ME to be their damned mechanic!!! I have to remind them I'm strictly an amateur, and that by Necessity only.

I'm gonna pick some brains here on Edelbrock Performer tuning soon enough. Been reading your past contributions on this already, among others here. Trudy has a "head cold" with some coughing and sneezing when the engine is cold. I suspect enriching the secondary mixture will do the trick, but for now will make do with warming the engine up good before driving..... LATER on THAT.

 

[Gerald Morris]

The heater box guy will hook you up, he only does mopar.

Who is this worthy soul? I might want to use him. I like Mopar Only sorts of folk, and plan to pull Mathilda's parts first, inspect them, and if good enough, use those. They worked fine last time I used them.

 

[Big_John]

You type Wise and True Words Big John. I've seen quite a spread on prices, and yes, junky DC motor tech hasn't evolved much in 60 years. I'll pull what I have in Mathilda first, and maybe, just MAAAYBEEE send this squealer to the motor shop, OR, DIM here. I'm good w electric motors, have been since I was 8 yrs old. Alas, TODAY I need to reseal a power steering pump, I got the kit from Edelmann, FWTW.

I've pulled a few automotive DC motors apart and got them running well again, like my headlight door motor, power vent motor, and power window motor. They all seem to be simple issues, usually a build up of dirt and/or lack of grease in the bearings. Clean the commutator and brushes, grease the bushings and they run like new. I'll bet the shunted brushes are off the shelf sizes if you really get into it. Assembly may be a bit "fussy" if the brushes need to be pushed back far enough to slide the commutator in, but it all can be overcome with some patience.

 

[david hill]

From personal experience Murray Blower Motors are very close toan exact fit w/ good performance. You will have to transfer you pig tails on to the Murray replacement motor, otherwise a good fit. I have one in my 69 300 vert since 1917 w/ no problems.

 

[halifaxhops]

Who is this worthy soul? I might want to use him. I like Mopar Only sorts of folk, and plan to pull Mathilda's parts first, inspect them, and if good enough, use those. They worked fine last time I used them.

theheaterboxguy.com

Tell Ritchie Hoppy referred you.

 

[Gerald Morris]

theheaterboxguy.com

Tell Ritchie Hoppy referred you.

Thanx big Big BIG! Hoppy! My latest distributor build got that 383 just PURRRRRRING, once its warmed up to a nice 200 F. (Thanx 2 your instruction and a few parts) I strongly suspect fuel/air system adjustments will be needed. Idles beautifully too, perfect dwell (30 degrees), 18 inches vacuum at 600 rpm idle. But once we started getting some cooler weather, she started sneezing and coughing until warmed up well. Another thread....

 

[Gerald Morris]

From personal experience Murray Blower Motors are very close toan exact fit w/ good performance. You will have to transfer you pig tails on to the Murray replacement motor, otherwise a good fit. I have one in my 69 300 vert since 1917 w/ no problems.

If this is the same Murray as does other electrical motors and such, I expect they WILL be good. Will look into this. Much Obliged!

 

[Gerald Morris]

I've pulled a few automotive DC motors apart and got them running well again, like my headlight door motor, power vent motor, and power window motor. They all seem to be simple issues, usually a build up of dirt and/or lack of grease in the bearings. Clean the commutator and brushes, grease the bushings and they run like new. I'll bet the shunted brushes are off the shelf sizes if you really get into it. Assembly may be a bit "fussy" if the brushes need to be pushed back far enough to slide the commutator in, but it all can be overcome with some patience.

All EZPZ DC motor building stuff John. SOMETIMES brushes aggravate a soul, but usually, stuff like feeler gauges, rubber bands, flat screwdrivers and such can help even thick fingered sorts like Yours Truly with reassembling even small motors. I suspect the old motor in Gertrude has some worn bearing/bushings and a LOT of DIRT, after staying in that hot as Hell barn in Douglas a few decades with all those incontinent rodents. At least I haven't had Eau de Raton perfuming our ride in cooler weather. Yes, I'm SURE the brushes, and mechanical parts of those old motors are all COTS. I know a few industrial supply houses down here too. It helps that I rode an electric scooter in the early 2000s, before it was that fashionable. I also worked in the mid 1980s in a cabinet plant as a maintenance helper, doing fair time fixing old electric motors, AC and DC. Some had armatures requiring a forklift....

 

[mrfury68]

If you have a local radiator repair shop in your area he can probably pressure test, clean and repair or re-core if necessary. A new replacement core will probably be aluminum and not as stout as the original copper core.

 

[Gerald Morris]

If you have a local radiator repair shop in your area he can probably pressure test, clean and repair or re-core if necessary. A new replacement core will probably be aluminum and not as stout as the original copper core.

I saw 2 copper cores online, running around $150. OER labels one of these, though who actually makes it is another matter.

Radiator shops have become more scarce in this burg, as old talent dies out without replacement. I do know ONE decent shop who sent my old radiator out last Fall to be rodded and patched. It cools that 383 very well yet, despite numerous patched leaks. I can start with him as a source, or shop for talent myself.

Pity the Old Talent died here. That fellow made a core for my 1960 Ranchero out of a piece of some other old radiator which worked perfectly.

My most likely scenario w.r.t. cores certainly will be to use the one from Mathilda. It should yet be good, as I emptied the cooling system soon after bringing the wreck home. I'm happy I never let the thieves from Progressive Insurance grab that car!

 

[Loadrunner]

Fans and cores rarely ever go out.

Cores can be repaired, rebuilt even.

Something to note is on some Mopar applications like on the trucks is that the hoses on the firewall are not attached to the core but to "thru tubes" that go through the firewall, a genius invention that allows techs to brutally install new lines without compromising the core.

So because of this there is a short intermediate hose between the core and the firewall inside the heater box, and these are prone to leaking/blowing out on passenger's foot because the rubber is 50 years old and hard as a rock.

In all my years of Mopar ownership, only one core failure, 1970 Duster, coolant gushed out all over ex wifes feet.

Had it happen again on a plow run about 10 years ago, blew a core out all over the floor, but luckily it was a failed intermediate hose and the core was fine.

We're blessed with a super radiator shop here, an industrial one that does rads the size of garage doors.

In the meantime, these guys;

Chrysler - US Radiator

 

[david hill]

From personal experience Murray Blower Motors are very close toan exact fit w/ good performance. You will have to transfer you pig tails on to the Murray replacement motor, otherwise a good fit. I have one in my 69 300 vert since 1917 w/ no problems.

I was away from home on my first post here is an actual box picture with part number for you to reference to

 

[The_Eagles’_Nest]

The Headlight Motor Man, Passion4Mopars, Stefan Fournier, and Dixie Restorations will rebuild any electric motor.

I would reuse an original heater core if it is in good condition and passes a pressure test. Spectra Premium is good, but you can’t beat a brass unit.

 

[Big_John]

The Headlight Motor Man, Passion4Mopars, Stefan Fournier, and Dixie Restorations will rebuild any electric motor.

I would reuse an original heater core if it is in good condition and passes a pressure test. Spectra Premium is good, but you can’t beat a brass unit.

Passion4Mopars has a horrible reputation.

Here's just one example; BEWARE: Kim Passion For Mopars

There's more out there, just google it.

 

[The_Eagles’_Nest]

That must be recent. They did the wiper motor on my 69 Charger and I had no issues. Sad to see that they ripped someone off. Definitely won’t be recommending them in the future.