rags
Senior Member
out.
What did you do to your C-body today....
- Thread starter thrashingcows
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rags
Senior Member
pulled the oil pump apart. junk.
pulled the rocker covers. rockers are junk.
this is from the engine in my fair weather daily driver. ran great. by the condition of the parts in it, i'm thinking the oil i drained out of it when i first bought the car might have been O.E. this has to be the slimiest operable 383 in America today.
Pulled the tranny out today, clutch didn't look as bad as I thought it would but I'm still puttin' a new one back in. The tranny has been sitting on the shelf since 2003 when Jamie Passon rebuilt it for me - figured it was time to slap it in. Got a shifter redone by Hurst in the same time frame also sitting around since then, so far I'm happy that I have been able to find everything......... but no guarantees that will continue.
thrashingcows
Senior Member
That oil pump looks pretty good to me....you should see the one in my 89 Cummins 12V motor, looks like someone ran a pile of sand through it but it still puts out 50-60 lbs cold at idle and drops to 40-ish when warm. ;)
JJ300
Active Member
^^^ No issues sir.Although the line itself is from a song. I'll see if anyone else recognizes it.
Spill the wine....
rapidtrans
Senior Member
“She whispered in my ear something crazy”
Must be the 50 Anniversary for that one.
Cruisin around town that summer in slant six Swinger!
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rags
Senior Member
didnn't to me. picture didn't come close to showing how badly scored it is. oil light was flashing when hot at idle. probably should pull a bearing cap, but i'm too damn lazy.
Messed around with some tuning today learning how to use my Allen test stand. Non of the meters work, I need to figure that out. The indicator lights by the meters work, so maybe some windings are bad. I need to figure out how to test them.
Anyway the oscilloscope works, so wanted to learn how to use it to diagnose. I learned how to use one in college 30 some years ago, but too long for me to remember.
Coil , points and condenser are good. Learning to read squiggly lines can be difficult. Next step is to use it to check the cylinder balance. I should be able to kill all the cylinders the left side of the carburetor feeds and compare the rpm drop to the right side carburetor feed. If the rpm drop for each side is pretty close then I won’t have to unseal my mixture limiters to balance.
It is difficult to get a picture of a moving signal.
Anyway the oscilloscope works, so wanted to learn how to use it to diagnose. I learned how to use one in college 30 some years ago, but too long for me to remember.
Coil , points and condenser are good. Learning to read squiggly lines can be difficult. Next step is to use it to check the cylinder balance. I should be able to kill all the cylinders the left side of the carburetor feeds and compare the rpm drop to the right side carburetor feed. If the rpm drop for each side is pretty close then I won’t have to unseal my mixture limiters to balance.
It is difficult to get a picture of a moving signal.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Very cool! Ya might check with @halifaxhops about what to do with your analyzer. He has / sells a bunch of that stuff.
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Replaced the headlight switch in my silver car with one just rebuilt by @Devinism .
No more having to jiggle it to get the taillights to work.
I stripped and refinished the walnut on the cluster bezel while it was out but I’m not sure when I’ll get to the rest of the wood trim as I’m now working on the Mobile Director in my spare time.
No more having to jiggle it to get the taillights to work.
I stripped and refinished the walnut on the cluster bezel while it was out but I’m not sure when I’ll get to the rest of the wood trim as I’m now working on the Mobile Director in my spare time.
Does he advertise here on the site? Switch in my 68 is done too.Replaced the headlight switch in my silver car with one just rebuilt by @Devinism .
No more having to jiggle it to get the taillights to work.
I stripped and refinished the walnut on the cluster bezel while it was out but I’m not sure when I’ll get to the rest of the wood trim as I’m now working on the Mobile Director in my spare time.
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Not really, I just call attention to him whenever I can. A great guy doing top notch work on a much needed service.
rags
Senior Member
that is the coolest thing. i can only wish that i had room enough for one of them in my shop. hope you can get the exhaust gas analyser working.
I need to figure out how the get the multi meters working. The lights beside them light up properly based on the mode. And I know the Rpm one is getting a signal as the needle will sweep when it switches from low to high rpm. I really need an electrical schematic and guidance on how to properly test the meters. First step is to understand if they really are getting the signal. If they are , they probably need re wound.
rags
Senior Member
no way those meters are bad unless somebody did something terribly wrong with it internally. more likely dirty contacts in those mechanical switches.
It seems to me that at least some of them had motion when I picked them up, but that's been a long time now. Hope you can figure them out.
I think I need to look at this wire.
I also noticed my low tach light doesn’t come on.
I probably should move this to my engine analyzer thread. For troubleshooting.
New project: Allen Engine analyzers, restoration?
I also noticed my low tach light doesn’t come on.
I probably should move this to my engine analyzer thread. For troubleshooting.
New project: Allen Engine analyzers, restoration?
Anyway back to messing around with the tune. Good news, all the cylinders are performing similarly. Using the analyzer I cut one cylinder at a time and measured the rpm drop. Cylinder Number 7 is a work horse. Shutting that one off dropped 20-25 rpm more than the others. I also noticed that cylinder may be running a little rich. I probably need to check my plug gap. The others we almost the same rpm drop, all were almost equal.
When I measured the carburetor banks by shutting off one bank at a time I found the left side of the carburetor is contributing more than the right side.
Right side dropped 560 rpm while the left side dropped 740 rpm. 180 rpm is a little too much. Maybe it is time for a carb re build. My ports are sealed.
Although I should plug my pvc valve first as they say that can affect the reading as well.
Edit: False alarm. I plugged my pcv valve (or flow control valve as called in the manual). And it evened out. I should leave well enough alone.
When I measured the carburetor banks by shutting off one bank at a time I found the left side of the carburetor is contributing more than the right side.
Right side dropped 560 rpm while the left side dropped 740 rpm. 180 rpm is a little too much. Maybe it is time for a carb re build. My ports are sealed.
Although I should plug my pvc valve first as they say that can affect the reading as well.
Edit: False alarm. I plugged my pcv valve (or flow control valve as called in the manual). And it evened out. I should leave well enough alone.
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Try here. Sounds like something in common with the gauges went Fuse maybe? Not versed on the Allen machines just the Suns.
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75LandYacht
Yank Tank
Mr. C, I used this gentleman for my window switches in my 77 NYB.. very nice man. Knows our site and has provided services for a few of us which is how I found him.
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