What to ask for when rebuilding a 383

CaravelleMan

CaravelleMan

Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2016
Messages
63
Reaction score
5
Location
Pinole California
Hey guys, I am looking for a shop to rebuild my 1968 383, standard 2 BBL. I want to install a better Cam, carb, and dual exhaust. But I don't know what else to ask for along with those improvements to make them worthwhile.

With research I've discovered I need the dual exhaust for the new carb to matter (4BBL), and I knew I'd need a new intake manifold. Is there anything else?

Thanks!
 
What is your goal? It would better help folks direct you, either way.

Oh and I'm a sucker for poppin cherries, so bang your first like.
 
Well I want to improve the engine, put in a sure grip. I'm rebuilding the front end now. Lemme bullet point it.

  • Improve performance, not dragster or red light warrior, just better than stock if I'm going through the trouble of rebuilding anyways
  • When building my order with a shop, I just want to know if they or I am leaving something out of the order.
  • I've never rebuilt an engine, my first classic, etc.
 
Hughes has some good descriptions. I'd estimate you're looking at their "group 2" designation. For the record I hate group or stage designations... But for this conversation it's helpful.

#2---Choosing a Cam
 
I got you, I'll look through it and see what I need to change along with the CAM, it looks like it'll direct me. Thanks for this !
 
Totally, I REALLY envy the east coast prices, knowledge and availability . I had an 89 Reliant where shops with outstanding reviews would either tell me I don't want to work on it (don't know how) or want a fortune. Luckily I found an outstanding alignment shop in El Sobrante that has classics on there regularly .
 
If you are going to upgrade the cam, it would serve you well to have the heads ported to the "Magnum" configuration to improve the flow and get full benefit from the updated carb and cam.

Dave
 
Davea Lux said:
If you are going to upgrade the cam, it would serve you well to have the heads ported to the "Magnum" configuration to improve the flow and get full benefit from the updated carb and cam.



Dave
Click to expand...

Yeah I was looking at that, also saw on hotrod magazine, they put on a Edelbrock street performer intake, and a 750 demon carb. Too much?
 
CaravelleMan said:
Hey guys, I am looking for a shop to rebuild my 1968 383, standard 2 BBL. I want to install a better Cam, carb, and dual exhaust. But I don't know what else to ask for along with those improvements to make them worthwhile.

With research I've discovered I need the dual exhaust for the new carb to matter (4BBL), and I knew I'd need a new intake manifold. Is there anything else?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
I went thru the same issue five years back. Had the machine shop do their thing and I assembled the 383, still have it and it runs strong. Back then my research led me to use a Lunati cam/lifter combo kit driven by a Cloyes timing set. I trashed the cast heads for a set of Edlebrok RPM's and a matching dual plane RPM Performer intake. I kicked the entire rebuild up a notch with an aftermarket TBI, I have'nt got one freaken good word to say about carbs anymore, they're going the way of the dinosaurs. You'll end up with exactly what you're willing to pay for and as far as I can figure a lot of people put their budget ahead of quality, understandably. You'd be wise to research what other's have used to achieve a decent, reliable rebuild. JMO.
 
Yatzee said:
I went thru the same issue five years back. Had the machine shop do their thing and I assembled the 383, still have it and it runs strong. Back then my research led me to use a Lunati cam/lifter combo kit driven by a Cloyes timing set. I trashed the cast heads for a set of Edlebrok RPM's and a matching dual plane RPM Performer intake. I kicked the entire rebuild up a notch with an aftermarket TBI, I have'nt got one freaken good word to say about carbs anymore, they're going the way of the dinosaurs. You'll end up with exactly what you're willing to pay for and as far as I can figure a lot of people put their budget ahead of quality, understandably. You'd be wise to research what other's have used to achieve a decent, reliable rebuild. JMO.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I'm trying to do, when I look it up it's either a really old build, or a magazines build. Problem with the magazines is that they got a bucket of cash, that's where I read the demon carb and Edelbrock intake. It would be great to find someone with a 383 2BBL that has done a rebuild on it with some upgrades and has a result which they we're looking for. And can tell me what they had to do with the heads, cam, ignition, etc. Cause I've never done this before
 
Hi CaravelleMan and welcome!

I, like you, recently rebuilt my 383 for my 64 New Yorker and it's an excellent Mopar engine to start with in my opinion. Start with making sure your cam, intake and carb match up in terms of target RPM and CFM range. You may want more torque up front or more horsepower at the end or a little bit of both. Just passing along some of the things that I did:

-Added a Demon Carb (depending on camshaft selection, keep your eye on the CFM to match up)
-Edelbrock Performer Intake
-New Valley Pan
-Make sure your heads are resurfaced, inspected, magnafluxed, pressure tested, etc.
-GASKETS of course
-You might want to add hardened seats for unleaded gas
-Inspect your pushrods and make sure they aren't bent
-Water pump (I stuck with mechanical rather than electric)
-Thermostat
-ARP exhaust bolts
-Switched to electronic distribution (easier than points), but I do carry around a spare set of tools and a points distributor JUST IN CASE.
-8MM spark plug wires
-NGK Iridium plugs
-Electronic Fuel Pump and 3/8 line
-Alternator from Powermaster depending on output/usage
-Inspect pistons

Everyone is different, but that's what I've done so far. Above all else, make sure you kick *** and take no names...
 
mikedrini said:
Hi CaravelleMan and welcome!

I, like you, recently rebuilt my 383 for my 64 New Yorker and it's an excellent Mopar engine to start with in my opinion. Start with making sure your cam, intake and carb match up in terms of target RPM and CFM range. You may want more torque up front or more horsepower at the end or a little bit of both. Just passing along some of the things that I did:

-Added a Demon Carb (depending on camshaft selection, keep your eye on the CFM to match up)
-Edelbrock Performer Intake
-New Valley Pan
-Make sure your heads are resurfaced, inspected, magnafluxed, pressure tested, etc.
-GASKETS of course
-You might want to add hardened seats for unleaded gas
-Inspect your pushrods and make sure they aren't bent
-Water pump (I stuck with mechanical rather than electric)
-Thermostat
-ARP exhaust bolts
-Switched to electronic distribution (easier than points), but I do carry around a spare set of tools and a points distributor JUST IN CASE.
-8MM spark plug wires
-NGK Iridium plugs
-Electronic Fuel Pump and 3/8 line
-Alternator from Powermaster depending on output/usage
-Inspect pistons

Everyone is different, but that's what I've done so far. Above all else, make sure you kick *** and take no names...
Click to expand...
Nice list! About how much did all this cost you? I currently have a Pertronix in mine and wondered if a MSD ignition would be good to use?
 
CaravelleMan said:
Nice list! About how much did all this cost you? I currently have a Pertronix in mine and wondered if a MSD ignition would be good to use?
Click to expand...

Ballpark, probably around $1500. I didn't do it all at once though either. Only what I could afford at a time, from the pistons up. Tore it right down to the pistons, so not a complete teardown (mainly because it's Winter and I don't have the garage space and my block only has 50,000 miles on it). My heads were solid, just needed a resurfacing, so I saved some potential costs there.

Personally I would go with the MSD over the Pertronix, but that's just through my experience. I have an MSD in it now, works excellent. I DID have a Pertronix conversion kit previously in my points distributor. Eventually I just yanked it out for the MSD, but the Pertronix is the backup I alluded to in my first post. Nothing's perfect and sometimes the electronic ones have crapped out on guys (not me) and they can't get home. So I keep the points one in my trunk with a spare tools and parts kit (feeler gauge, bump starter, spare spark plugs, spare wires, sockets, wrenches, ignition coil, etc.), enough for a distributor pull if I need one.

I like being prepared too, just in case. You never know when Murphy's Law is gonna piss on your cornflakes.
 
I should also mention the reason I had the heads resurfaced. My car was a bit of an enigma when I bought it in that the 64 NY actually came with a 413 stock, mine had a 383? The heads however, were 67 440 heads, but the block was dated to 64. I had them resurfaced just to be safe. Not to mention I had a leaky head gasket causing some coolant to get into the engine.

The guys on this site have taught me a crap ton. I am sure they will learn you up good too. All of this gets addicting so beware. One minute you're swapping carbs, the next minute you're looking up how to perform a tapered axle conversion.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

SportFuryman
Help needed on new Carb install
Replies
15
Views
1K
SportFuryman
SportFuryman
E
1968 Dodge Monaco not starting, also has exhaust manifold leak.
Replies
18
Views
670
57fury440
57fury440
Y
383/400 4 barrel intake questions
Replies
9
Views
2K
Plymouth man
P
S
440 swap or build the 383?
2
Replies
25
Views
2K
70bigblockdodge
70bigblockdodge
Zymurgy
Reconditioned 452 heads. What upgrades should I consider?
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
Outsider
Outsider
Back
Top