Wheel alignment and offset bushings

[superfragl]

I installed a new Borgeson steering box recently and manufacturer suggests setting wheel caster at 3-4 degrees positive.
I decided to do the alignment last night. Passenger side went easy. I was able to set caster at 3.5 degrees and camber at -0.5. Driver side - not so good... The rear cam bottomed out giving me -0.25 camber and 1 degree positive caster...
So I am thinking I could try Moog offset UCA bushing at the rear (the front bushing is at the middle of it`s travel), but how much will I gain? Is it possible to gain 3 degrees? Or should I throw the UCA in the milling machine and bore an offset location for rear bushing and weld a sleeve in?
Please share your experience and ideas!

 

[traintech55]

Although I have never used the offset bushings, I have heard some good things about them. One thing I have see on older Chrysler front ends that use the "Cam" bolts to set the alignment, is that repeated hitting of "Pot Holes" can slightly bend the mounting points in the frame. Check your bolt guides for any sign of being bent. I have seen where the guides had to be removed and new ones welded in to correct the alignment specs.

 

[superfragl]

Even if they are bent, which I did not notice, welding on the frame at this point is not an option. I understand that this would be the proper way to correct alignment problem, but with the engine in place... no way. Therefore I have to find another way to get it done. Taking UCA off and leaving the rest of the suspension in place is doable. I just do not know how much I will gain with the offset bushings. If its only 1-2 degrees - it is not worth wasting time on it and I would just fix the UCA by moving the bushing location.

 

[superfragl]

From what a few people reported, the offset bushings give about 2 additional degrees of caster, which is not enough. Tubular control arms would be nice to have but the price of $450 does not look so good to me.
I did some 3D modeling and found that moving the bushing location by 0.4" will give me additional 3 degrees of caster.
The whole 'surgery' took no more than 30 min.
I came up with a jig to retain the bushing alignment while welding so everything should line up fine.

 

[traintech55]

From what a few people reported, the offset bushings give about 2 additional degrees of caster, which is not enough. Tubular control arms would be nice to have but the price of $450 does not look so good to me.
I did some 3D modeling and found that moving the bushing location by 0.4" will give me additional 3 degrees of caster.
The whole 'surgery' took no more than 30 min.
I came up with a jig to retain the bushing alignment while welding so everything should line up fine.
View attachment 118315
View attachment 118314

As is often said, "Necessity is the mother of invention" if it works great, if not it is not that expensive to get another arm and replace it. Good luck.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Yep let us know how much you picked up. I can't believe you got 3° positive out of the passenger side.

 

[superfragl]

Yep let us know how much you picked up. I can't believe you got 3° positive out of the passenger side.

Yes, 3.5 positive and there was more room. Barely 1° on the drivers side. Go figure..
Anyway, I will be installing the control arm back tonight. Will post the results.

 

[superfragl]

All installed and adjusted. Good to go!

 

[twostick]

To get additional castor with the offset bushings you have to ignore the instructions as they are actually designed for gaining camber.

IIRC the offset is installed at 6 & 12 o'clock instead of 3 & 9.

Kevin

 

[superfragl]

I did not use the offset bushings.