Some thoughts on the article, use case, and effects of changes, in no particular order:
The article uses Edelbrock heads, which seem to be roughly equivalent in performance to the 440-source. If you use stock iron heads, even with a relatively mild build, you'll get less power and torque.
The cam they use still peaks at like 5,600 RPM. So I think you want less duration.
All else being equal (and it never is), larger displacement will move the power and torque curves down the rev range. So you can have more duration and still get low-end torque.
Headers are good for torque. I know that's the opposite of what everyone says, but I really think it's true. Look at the tuning guidelines: longer tubes make more torque. You're going from a couple inches in a manifold to 20 or 30 inches in a header. The reason they're associated with high-rpm power is that most people who use them are going for high-rpm power. Correlation is not causation. They have issues with stock appearance, sound, heat, and fit, so I'm not making any recommendations. But $700 for TTI headers will likely give you more power in the range you want.
Roller cams are about $1000 more than a flat-tappet. Okay, maybe you get away for less, but you'll get nickel'd and dime'd somewhere.
Still.... I think for an engine that you want to be "step on it and go" fast, you want under 220 degrees of duration at 0.050" lift. If you look at all the cam company suggestions, for a heavy street car, or RV cam, they all seem to agree on this.
One step down from the lobes used in the article is 212/0.525" In, 218/0.521" (duration at 0.050" and total lift). Chrysler gave gross duration, but that duration seems to be pretty similar to a factory 350HP cam. So you're likely to get a very similar torque profile. (Lobe 3012 intake 3034 ex if you're looking at the Comp catalog). If you go roller, I think this would be a good choice, assuming the stock valvetrain can really handle it. The lowest-duration Lunati roller (20230710) is very similar. 440-source recommends upgraded springs for anything over 0.500" lift, for what that's worth.
I have no way of knowing if all the bad-mouthing of Comp is real or just bitterness. However, nobody seems to have anything bad to say about Lunati, so I was leaning heavily towards one of their cams.
Everything I think about here is for my Imperial, with a 5500lb curb weight and a 2.94 rear end. Your car is lighter and has more gear, so you could get away with more cam. However, you may still never go over 5,000 rpm, so anything you give up on the bottom to get more power above that will never be realized.
If you decide to go with Edelbrock or 440-source heads deciding they're about the same price as a good set of rebuilt irons, you will find that the marginal cost of a 505" stroker kit, headers, or a roller cam are all close to $1000. If I had to pick one of those three (and I would, since I can't afford all three), I would be leaning towards the 505" bottom end and using a flat tappet cam and HP manifolds. I was considering the Lunati 10230701 (213/220 duration, 0.454"/0.475" lift) and some Crane grinds in the same range. I'd guess this would be good for 540-550 lb-ft at 2800-3000 rpm. A stock (fresh rebuild, trans-go kitted) transmission and rear-end would probably live behind this for quite a while. I'd guess this would be about $2000 more than a basic rebuild.
Before anyone talks about the cost of the stroker kit, please note that I said MARGINAL cost. It's about $1k more than a good bottom-end kit with pistons. A little more, sure, but in the ballpark.
If you follow this, I'd love to see how it comes out. My recreation budget for 2019 is getting eaten by my 2017 paint project, so I'll have to wait another year for my driveline rebuild....
. The rpm's are so low ,if she doesn't fire ,something else is wrong.
