That's correct for a car with C.A.P. (Cleaner Air Package)
While Matt's is correct for a car that does not have C.A.P.
Which air cleaner????
- Thread starter Joseph James
- Start date
Joseph James
Senior Member
My car has the CAP sticker on passenger side inner fender.
eBay it is!
Joseph James
Senior Member
I have never been able to match idle and timing settings the sticker states.
Please explain. Is the carb still the OEM CAP item? Is the distributor correct for the CAP specs? I suspect that if either one, or both, of those items has been changed somewhere along the line, it might not be possible to match the specs on the label.
One time, back in the later '60s, we had our '66 Newport 383 2bbl (Stromberg WWC-3) at the dealership for a tune-up. When doing that, they splashed some Acrysol on the carb to clean the linkage and such. They also used a Sunn roll-around air/fuel ratio meter to do check the carb's operation. Once, I asked if they could adjust the idle to 14.2 air/fuel ratio. Sure enough, it made it with just a bit of turning of the idle mixture screws, which proved my theory on that. Idle quality deteriorated a little, so I asked to return to the normal settings (max rpm at the stated idle rpm spec). What I failed to do, back then, was to see how much turning of the mixture screws was needed to get to the 14.2 reading. When the rpm level was about 2000rpm (cruise), the meter swung to 14.7 just as it should, every time.
Just curious what you experienced when trying to hit the CAP idle specs.
Thanks,
CBODY67
For the record, I ran across that basic housing with NO snorkels on it, factory chromed, at a swap meet about 25 years ago. I think I paid about $30.00 for it, then it got rechromed along with some other items a work associate was getting chromed for his race boat (pricing by the batch, rather than individual pieces). No evidence of a snorkel ever having been cut into the stamping. Seems like it was a factory item in the middle '60s on some 413s that also had factory chrome valve covers? I think I saw a picture of that "dress-up package" somewhere. Still have it.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Joseph James
Senior Member
I was using a tachometer and a timing light. The car would idle 650 as sticker states but not in gear. I then read FSM and tried it in neutral with the headlights on as FSM states. It died. I do not have a combustion analyzer.
I later discovered that my harmonic balancer has shifted. I couldn’t get the timing correct, so I manually moved crank to 1 TDC, checked distributor position. Lo and behold, the timing mark is 5 inches away from 0. So, I used a vacuum gauge and my ear. Idle is a little high but running nicely now. Only thing is ammeter is slightly in discharge at idle. Wipers slow down a lot at red lights. Ditto for headlights dimming down at a red light. I usually shut off the wipers when stopped.
I was having the same issue hitting the idle on the sticker as well. I would get it down to about 650 and any little tweak further it would drop to about 480. I found that my mechanical advance was starting too early. Watching with a timing light my mechanical advance overcomes the springs at about 600 rpm. Per the specs the mechanical advance should not start until about 900 rpm. As soon as it starts advancing the idle bumps up about 200 rpm. I need to get it on a distributor machine and play with the advance spring tabs. Once I figured that out I set the timing at 7-1/2 degrees at 480 rpm to take the mechanical advance out of the picture. Other wise it was too retarded. Then I set the idle around 650 and plugged the vacuum advance back in. No pinging during acceleration and idles fine. Maybe a little hesitation but nothing bad.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2010
- Messages
- 28,556
- Reaction score
- 28,419
Don’t forget the so called fuel we have now is NOTHING like the gasoline that was available when that decal was installed.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2010
- Messages
- 28,556
- Reaction score
- 28,419
Pics or I don’t believe you.
Joseph James
Senior Member
Thanks for mentioning that. I hadn’t thought of it. I am running no-ethanol mid grade. It’s the closest thing I can find.
Do rebuilt engines have the valve train reworked for unleaded fuel? Surely they do.
70NEWYORKER
Well-Known Member
Only if the person funding the rebuild instructed the machine shop to install hardened exhaust valve seats during the valve job.
And a good shop should recommend it to the unaware consumer.
70NEWYORKER
Well-Known Member
Yes, but the aforementioned machine shop would have to convince the unknowing hump to part with his coin too...
"I'll just get aluminum heads, it'll be cheaper."
Joseph James
Senior Member
I purchased a reman 383 from S and J Engines. I thought that they would have built it for unleaded fuel. We haven’t had leaded gas since the 1980s. I remember when it went out and you could (for a while) buy lead additive at parts stores.
If my engine wasn’t built for leaded fuel what is a symptom of seats going out?
70NEWYORKER
Well-Known Member
Contact the shop you purchased the engine from and ask them what they did to it. Lack of hardened seats should not be an issue unless you are really working this motor hard..racing or towing.
Joseph James
Senior Member
Thanks. I will shoot them an email.
I just use the car as my daily to work. Haven’t had it over 60 mph since the suspension needs some work. No low gear dogging it out. I just drive it normal.
I have one of those single snorkel 383 2 air cleaners in my attic I won't need.
The one I have is a rectangular snorkel.
Similar threads
- Locked
