You tube and the downfall of man

[70bigblockdodge]

You tube is a great source of entertainment and some great information. However after searching for a easy way to get the crank position sensor out of a 98 ram, I have come to the conclusion that people are a glutten for punishment and doomed, and also that Dodge should have abandoned making trucks after 1993.
The correct way to get the sensor out is to cut a rectangle out of the passenger side toe board , R&R sensor then patch said hole with a slightly larger rectangle and 4 sheet metal srews (stainless steel if your keeping the POS)
The disassembly of a 1/4 of the truck to change the sensor is bizzarre. It's a 20 y.o. truck and the new part is not going to last 15-20 years.
I really hope the ingnorant, brainless a-holes that redesigned the front timing cover to eliminate the fuel pump mounting hole, and then put the C.P.S. in a new hole in the top of the transmission are resting comfortably in hell.
If a 2019 ram truck is remotely related to the late 90s Rams I would not even ride in one.
Rant over

 

[detmatt]

 

[BLIMP]

Oh man your post had me chuckling, only because I've been in the same situation and can totally relate...you've got a way with words!
Sorry to hear of your aggravation.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

And this is all on a farm truck, uggh.
I have a feeling that most of the new ant eater/jellybean big trucks around now with all the emissions plumbing and sensors, they are probably just as bad to work on.

 

[traintech55]

Now you all understand why I quit working on cars for a living and went to the railroad.

 

[1978 NYB]

2018...last year of Gen 4

No problems here...

 

[stubs300]

Engineers just design cars and trucks. They could care less about the hassles the mechanics have to deal with to repair them! I feel your pain.

 

[Mike66Chryslers]

Automakers want to get you into a new car ASAP. The only exception is that they want the residual value of a 5 year old vehicle to be high so that the monthly cost of a lease is reasonable. Therefore the vehicle still needs to be considered a good used-car purchase when it's 5 years old.

I'm sure they would be happy if the repair cost/hassle of a 10+ year old vehicle is high, so that the relative cost of the repair favors buying a new vehicle instead of repairing. Requiring special tools or procedures that are nigh impossible without a hoist or other shop tools discourages DIYers.

A friend of mine has a 2 year old VW Golf. I won't bore you with the details of his woes, but when you change the battery you need to plug-in a scantool to inform the Battery Control Module that you've changed it, what type it is (regular wet cell, AGM, etc.), and its charge capacity. Then the car optimizes its charging strategy to the new battery. So you can't just go down to your local parts store, buy a new battery, swap them and go. You either need to buy a scantool that can do this or visit the VW dealer to do it.

 

[bigmoparjeff]

Do you still need to see the pin-out diagrams? I have the pics in my phone, but if you don't need them, I'm not going to post them up.

 

[78Brougham]

 

[Dobalovr]

Are we talking 98 1500 with a 5.2L?

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR - 3.9L/5.2L/5.9L ENGINES
REMOVAL
The sensor is bolted to the top of the cylinder block near the rear of right cylinder head Crankshaft Position Sensor

.

1. Remove the air cleaner intake tube.
2. Disconnect crankshaft position sensor pigtail harness from main wiring harness.
3. Remove two sensor (recessed hex head) mounting bolts Crankshaft Position Sensor
4. Remove sensor from engine.

INSTALLATION

1. Position crankshaft position sensor to engine.
2. Install mounting bolts and tighten to 8 N·m (70 in. lbs.) torque.
3. Connect main harness electrical connector to sensor.
4. Install air cleaner tube.

 

[Yeahrightgreer]

2018...last year of Gen 4

No problems here...

View attachment 244121

Let’s see in 26 years

 

[65 500]

A friend of mine has a 2 year old VW Golf. I won't bore you with the details of his woes, but when you change the battery you need to plug-in a scantool to inform the Battery Control Module that you've changed it, what type it is (regular wet cell, AGM, etc.), and its charge capacity. Then the car optimizes its charging strategy to the new battery. So you can't just go down to your local parts store, buy a new battery, swap them and go. You either need to buy a scantool that can do this or visit the VW dealer to do it.

So he expected a pile of **** VW to not be a pile of ****?

 

[300rag]

Are we talking 98 1500 with a 5.2L?

View attachment 244218
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR - 3.9L/5.2L/5.9L ENGINES
REMOVAL
The sensor is bolted to the top of the cylinder block near the rear of right cylinder head Crankshaft Position Sensor

.

1. Remove the air cleaner intake tube.
2. Disconnect crankshaft position sensor pigtail harness from main wiring harness.
3. Remove two sensor (recessed hex head) mounting bolts Crankshaft Position Sensor
4. Remove sensor from engine.

INSTALLATION

1. Position crankshaft position sensor to engine.
2. Install mounting bolts and tighten to 8 N·m (70 in. lbs.) torque.
3. Connect main harness electrical connector to sensor.
4. Install air cleaner tube.

Stop trying to make it look easy

 

[78Brougham]

Stop trying to make it look easy

I'm sure there's nothing else in the way.... like the evaporator, fan motor, fire wall...LOL

 

[78Brougham]

Dodge should have abandoned making trucks after 1993.

They did Dave, now they are Ram!

 

[Quantum53]

I retired from a large crane manufacturer as a Test Track Supervisor. I've seen many a "Stupid" engineering calamity. The best was in a meeting they asked for suggestions. I asked the engineers present if the worked on their own cars, changing oil, plugs maybe a starter. No, we take it to the garage and have the mechanic do it. Bet you ***** about the prices charged. What's this have to do with any thing. I pushed open the door of the meeting, (it was held in one of the assembly shops) and pointed to a crane on line and said do something about the stupid design on that model and others. If the starter went bad you had to pull the engine on it and certain other units to change it. If the boom was over front, turntable over rear, you hand crank the or use another crane to turn the turn table to get to the engine area. Then the fun begins. We used to have trouble with the boom and jib erection. When talking to the engineers involved, we came to find out, each works in his own cubicle and hardly ever communicates with who is designing the next part in line. Just working off a drawing and not sure they are compatible. Job security!

 

[78Brougham]

We used to have trouble with the boom and jib erection.

Not to be a smart ***, because your post is significant, but I can't resist because that's how I am... I gotta hit you with this one liner...lol

..... For the record, I don't have any problems with my boom or jib erection!

You'll use it!

 

[Quantum53]

No problem. We had sticker that went on the boom nose and jib that said " Care must be taken when erecting and stowing the jib." I took one along home and you know where I stuck it one evening. She failed to see the humor. Ha!

 

[traintech55]

No problem. We had sticker that went on the boom nose and jib that said " Care must be taken when erecting and stowing the jib." I took one along home and you know where I stuck it one evening. She failed to see the humor. Ha![/

Women just cannot take a joke.