Your fuel line pump to carb has to be better than mine. Any pics to help me design it better?

[James Romano]

Well...that makes a lot of sense... If you saw my post on what I had in my car for a washer switch... Mine must have been an after purchase install, or dealer mod.

Looks like I need to sort that out as well. I kinda figured something was wrong when my switch was missing the terminal for the wash motor. Now I know.

No biggie. Easy fix

 

[rapidtrans]

You guys are killing me! Gorgeous engine compartment shots.
I gotta at least paint these wheel housings the right color. I’ll get around to a total detail if I ever need to pull the motor.

 

[James Romano]

Great thread and I'm learning a lot... I definitely have to sort some stuff out.

So last one... Do I have the right air cleaner? According to Nick's Garage - Air Cleaner Identification I do if I have the Clean Air Package. If I don't, what should mine look like for a 65 383 4-bbl?

I can always go chrome...

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

I can always go chrome...

And the moderators can always ban you!

 

[James Romano]

Lmfao!! Got me!

 

[300rag]

And the moderators can always ban you!

Moderator? We got mods?

 

[300rag]

... If I don't, what should mine look like for a 65 383 4-bbl?

I can always go chrome...

Look at the air cleaners in posts 38 and 40.

 

[rapidtrans]

Yeah. My Monaco is a California spec. car. Single snorkel is original stock.

 

[300rag]

Yeah. My Monaco is a California spec. car. Single snorkel is original stock.

Mine was CA as well.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Keep your hood shut.
Looks perfect.

 

[300rag]

....

Do you have pics of where the wiper washer lines go? Mine is crushed under the fluid canister, goes up the left side (opposite battery side), along the front firewall...and each jet has the line just sitting on top of the cowling seal. I doubt this is factory. If you have a pic of the routing I can use, that would be another eyesore taken care of.

Thanks!

I knew I had a better picture of the lines and the fitting...

Driver's side cowl

 

[James Romano]

Thanks! I ordered a new system on eBay and have already ripped out the old stuff. Looks like a wash fluid bottle from the early 70s.

I'll post the results once I get that and the fuel line sorted out
JR

 

[James Romano]

OK... I got the parts this week and started today. Took out the old fuel line and added in the new one... was a little tough to get it bent just right and I nicked up my valve cover pretty good, but I had plans of reapainting anyway. I got to the fuel pump and I find out that I don't have the correct year pump. I noticed the fuel inlet is pointed in the wrong direction and has a 3/8's inlet size. I think this is for a 70's 440? Mine has a reducer and had a rubber hose on it. Looks like **** and not very reliable. I guess this is the reason why my fuel filter was on top blowing in the breeze. Along with my washer setup, this is wrong too... unreal.

Back to eBay for the right pump...

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

If you're using the fuel line kit that I linked in post 4, you need a fuel pump where the 5/16ths discharge points towards the right front corner of the car. That is the correct pump for a 1970 440 with a four barrel, regardless of RR, SuperBee, or Cbod. Six Pak and Hemi used 3/8ths line.

But good on ya for tackling the filter waving in the breeze! Now how about that Mopar sticker on the booster?

 

[James Romano]

If you're using the fuel line kit that I linked in post 4, you need a fuel pump where the 5/16ths discharge points towards the right front corner of the car. That is the correct pump for a 1970 440 with a four barrel, regardless of RR, SuperBee, or Cbod. Six Pak and Hemi used 3/8ths line.

View attachment 330546

But good on ya for tackling the filter waving in the breeze! Now how about that Mopar sticker on the booster?

Working on it. I have to pick up the new booster tomorrow that I have to replace when I swap out the brake system.

I'm going to order the correct fuel pump tonight. And get this all sorted. I figure somewhere in the life of this car the pump broke and whomever fixed it, jus slapped in a pump that was available at the time. Much like the washer system.

I tore that all out already and will pick up the new system tomorrow. Also coming in is the correct air cleaner I have to cleanup and paint. So I'm getting there.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

I figure somewhere in the life of this car the pump broke and whomever fixed it, just slapped in a pump that was available at the time.

I'm sure you're right about that. A wrong pump + rubber hose got it moving again back in 1972.

That new fuel line without the waving filter looks damn fine.

 

[Turboomni]

If you're using the fuel line kit that I linked in post 4, you need a fuel pump where the 5/16ths discharge points towards the right front corner of the car. That is the correct pump for a 1970 440 with a four barrel, regardless of RR, SuperBee, or Cbod.

I would like to get that metal fuel line kit but was wondering about the fuel pump you used. Is it a Carter or aftermarket and what fuel psi and GPH is it rated at? Wondering because the carb I want to use is an Edelbrock and I seem to recall they are psi sensitive.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Here's the pump and I ordered it from Summit. Best $20 you can possibly spend!
Carter Muscle Car Mechanical Fuel Pumps M3672

I think I mentioned using the repro Mopar metal filter....the flimsy plastic item at the local parts store doesn't cut it with me. Choose your date code and feel just like Tim Wellborn for a minute!
Mega Parts USA - Reproduction, NOS and Used Mopar Muscle Car Parts

Finally, I like things as OEM as possible, but I did not use the crimp-style (some call 'em "pyramid" ) clamps, much as I'd like to. Can't trust them, I don't have the crimper (don't want one), and getting those crimped with the filter in place is very difficult. I went with the usual small screw clamps and once installed, I painted them black with a modeler's brush to hide my selling-out to technology. They're kinda invisible down there, anyway.

There's a whole discussion here:
Mopar OEM Hose Clamps for fuel lines---how do they install?

 

[HWYCRZR]

Anyone have any advice for stock/OEM looking connectors on thier coils? My neg is a shitty Pep Boys special and my positive has busted insulation. I have to replace both sides.

I appreciate all your help and knowledge.

JR

View attachment 328943

Back to your comment on OEM looking molded connectors. I luckily had my old harness for most of my connections and was able to take an exacto knife or razor blade to cut the molded parts in half to remove the old wire and terminal. Once I had it ready to go I would put the molded rubber piece back on and use a small piece of black heat shrink to seal it back up. From about 5’ it looks original, but still looks good close up. If you don’t have the molded rubber, find a connector with a heat shrink insulator. ( this first insulator adds smooth bulk). Before you close the connector slide a small piece of black heat shrink on the wire away from the heat. Install the connector and shrink the first insulator. Then position the Black one over the top and shrink. It will add a little thickness to make it look more original.
This link should take you to my picture of this.
68 Polara restore back on

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Also, I sheathed my suction line from where it comes out the the frame right up to the pump with this thermal sleeve: DEI Heat Sheaths 010403 It's very hard to see from above, particularly after you give it a light spray with a matte black rattler.