No avoiding it; I MUST get NEW Linkage Hardware Now Right? Kickdown Not Kicking.

figured i'd give you a laugh...in the process of painting all the stuff for my rebuild i noticed my cable bracket was twisted to hell...so of course i straightened it properly....well i just tried to hook the cable up and realized the previous idiot had to twist it to get the cable to line up with the carb...cause there's an Edelbrock performer 440 on it which evidently is a taller manifold (despite reading that the performer is stock height and only the performer RPM is taller)...so i'm off to the shop to cut up the stock bracket and angle it correctly...

(chuckle) Yes, Edelbrock INSTRUCTS customers to twist and otherwise bend their stock bracket to accommodate their carbs. I found the throttle bracket and kickdown bellcrank for the 1968 engine I bought IN that ragtop last September with the NAPA reman Carter BBD and guess what? IT'S THE 4 BARREL THROTTLE BRACKET!!! I might add that unlike this paperweight I bought from Mancini, it holds it's bellcrank pin firmly in place. Reckon I'll clean it all up nicely, repaint it in Old Chrysler Turquoise, and maybe try it out AFTER I resolve the power steering pump issue which arose just a couple weeks ago. Today, after I finish haggling w State bureaucrats over Family benefits, I plan to draw some fluid off the pump to give it "the Pink Test." If it tests Pink Positive, I then will KNOW a certain Chebbie Chimp merits a Lead Enema, though alas, I won't administer it. Folks here have got funny ideas about medical practices of that sort.
 
Back when I swapped in a 440 in place of the 383 in my Polara, my roommate brought the bracket over to his dad's, cut it and welded in a small piece to raise it up to the correct level.
 
Back when I swapped in a 440 in place of the 383 in my Polara, my roommate brought the bracket over to his dad's, cut it and welded in a small piece to raise it up to the correct level.

Nice thing about our Old Mopars is that we can do stuff like this to them and they will take off and fly just FINE. Try these kind of wholesome hacks on modern computo-mobiles.
 
noting your ''sneezing " issue on the other thread...i think you'll need to spring for edelbrock's 1479 calibration kit...think the main mixture is a bit too lean...the joys of swapping jets, metering rods with differing profiles and springs of varying strengths to let those metering rods pull in and out of the jets at different rates will have you talking to yourself in no time...aftermarket performance carbs are in no way set up for any specific application and generally come jetted close enough to run but not run perfectly without changing stuff...
 
noting your ''sneezing " issue on the other thread...i think you'll need to spring for edelbrock's 1479 calibration kit...think the main mixture is a bit too lean...the joys of swapping jets, metering rods with differing profiles and springs of varying strengths to let those metering rods pull in and out of the jets at different rates will have you talking to yourself in no time...aftermarket performance carbs are in no way set up for any specific application and generally come jetted close enough to run but not run perfectly without changing stuff...

Yes, I've already earmarked Kit 1479 for probable purchase in the near future, BUT, BEFORE I resort to walking that minefield, I mean to correct every little **** issue in the ignition, then upline air/fuel system stuff like pressure, breather volume and THEN other thermal issues such as the intake manifold "stove" which diverts a bit of the right exhaust manifold gas under the carburetor during cold startup conditions, until the engine suitably warms up. I need a new thermostatic spring for that flapper assembly, and will then need to switch the current manifold with the one which still has its flapper. I removed the one in the manifold now running, as with my old, faulty 2 barrel carbs, the issue was of TOO MUCH HEAT for the carburetor.

Gasoline has its range of ideal conditions, but once outside, the stuff either becomes just oily carcinogenic guck, or TOO explosive vapor.

While I now have the kickdown working, with transmission shifting as we like it, the kickdown return is oversprung, until probably Monday, when a spring with smaller "k" more suitable for kickdown return should arrive. This also affects carburetion, and may be part of Gertrude's problem. All my softer "k" springs are too short for the 1968 Carter AVS or BBD setup.

Finally, my power steering pump likely has one of the vanes catching on something, as it regularly catches, bogging the entire engine down, costing us inordinate fuel and power. THAT motivates another thread I recently spawned. I found my 1968 TRW pump, which ran dandy, but leaked more, removed the reservoir TOOOO easily, noted the botched O-ring and sealing repair last attempted on it, ordered the proper kit, and await its arrival this Saturday. THEN I can swap it in for the dying pump now there, along with a nicely cleaned up, painted, and rubbered V bracket suitable for the slab side vintage. I LIKE this pump and bracket, BTW.

After resolving THESE matters, if the motor still coughs and sneezes when cold, I'll see about rods and springs. I may also install more proper spark plugs than the J14-Ys now installed before that too. They're too hot for 4 barrel fuel volume apparently, and I can't find J13-Ys any longer, so will likely go to platinum plugs such as Bosch 4236.
 
just to annoy you i had a VW repair shop for 40 yrs and always swore by Bosch plugs....when i closed up in 2012 the air cooled bug ones were coming from Russia....the Bosch set i just removed from my sons Jetta were made in China... the VW factory long blocks i was buying in the 2000's came with NGKs...so i've basically switched to NGKs at the moment (the 440s still got champions cause till i get it sorted out i'd rather throw away cheap plugs...and its not a daily driver anyway...fwiw my right side flapper has been stuck in the open position for 20 yrs with absolutely no drivability issues...and that included NY...
 
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just to annoy you i had a VW repair shop for 40 yrs and always swore by Bosch plugs....when i closed up in 2012 the air cooled bug ones were coming from Russia....the Bosch set i just removed from my sons Jetta were made in China... the VW factory long blocks i was buying in the 2000's came with NGKs...so i've basically switched to NGKs at the moment (the 440s still got champions cause till i get it sorted out i'd rather throw away cheap plugs...and its not a daily driver anyway...fwiw my right side flapper has been stuck in the open position for 20 yrs with absolutely no drivability issues...and that included NY...

I had no problem losing that damn flapper w the Stromberg WWCs I used, but thought if the Edelbrock works better with a warm manifold under it, this would be one way to make that happen.

I found a line on GERMAN Bosch plugs. You're soooo right about the cheap sweat they hire NOW. DAMN international crapitalism! THAT's always been The Goal of so many of these "International Goody Two Shoes" fronts too.
 
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