No avoiding it; I MUST get NEW Linkage Hardware Now Right? Kickdown Not Kicking.

Loadrunner

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It's so much more than kick down linkage.

It's the only input your transmission gets as to where the throttle is and the further back the rod is pushed the higher the pump pressure, needed on the clutches under load, hard acceleration, etc.
 

Gerald Morris

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The stud they sold you has nothing to do with mopar linkage, it’s Chevy stuff. (Bad)That stud is mounted in the cruise control linkage hole (Bad). How the pro hooked things up for you reminds me of a old saying: A Little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing.

I agree WHOLLY and completely. Edelbrock packages that damned stud as Mopar specific, but I have the same level of respect for their documentation authors as I reserve for Android app, and web slopware authors in general: BREAK EVERY FINGER BONE IN EACH HAND, ONE AT A TIME!

I have a stud for the Carter BBD linkage that should do nicely on that throttle lever. Mancini should get the Lokar kickdown cable to me with a Mopar 4 bbl throttle cable bracket within the week.

No doubt of it, we would have been better off to have done the job at home, in every way save legal culpability.
 

70bigblockdodge

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You need it to be up on the same point as the throttle (to get the distance needed to adjust the line pressure) it will also need stretched out because 2 bbl linkage is shorter, looks like you have enough, but most likely out at end of the threads. You can put a bolt in the groove to add some distance to make it all the way rearward. It looks hokey, but still a good cheat.
Ensure WOT with pedal to the floor, then adjust linkage with all the way rearward at WOT.
Lifetime spent undoing Chevy mouth breather repairs.

The Lokar stuff is nice looking, but it can/has been problematic on daily drivers.
 
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Gerald Morris

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You need it to be up on the same point as the throttle (to get the distance needed to adjust the line pressure) it will also need stretched out because 2 bbl linkage is shorter, looks like you have enough, but most likely out at end of the threads. You can put a bolt in the groove to add some distance to make it all the way rearward. It looks hokey, but still a good cheat.

I think if the rod is short, the extension Edelbrock sold me will do nicely then! The Carter stud will certainly work in place of that damn Crooze Cuntrol stud. I look 4ward to installing it, just to de-chebbify things.

Ensure WOT with pedal to the floor, then adjust linkage with all the way rearward at WOT.
Right-O! SOP for KD linkage. I WILL try to preserve my bellcrank setup B4 opening the Lokar pkg. IF, (God willing) I get my KD working, then I can always sell the Lokar on, or return it to Mancini....

Lifetime spent undoing Chevy mouth breather repairs.

The Lokar stuff is nice looking, but it can/has been problematic on daily drivers.
IFF you want to call chebbification "repairs" yes. The lad had the humility to request the Engine pages from my FSM, so I happily copied the relevant ones. Its weird, calling a little grey haired dude a youngster, but despite my hormonal blessing, I now have to do this all too often! Just glad I still can count grey hairs, and thank the Lord for that one.
 

Welder guy

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You need it to be up on the same point as the throttle (to get the distance needed to adjust the line pressure) it will also need stretched out because 2 bbl linkage is shorter, looks like you have enough, but most likely out at end of the threads. You can put a bolt in the groove to add some distance to make it all the way rearward. It looks hokey, but still a good cheat.
Ensure WOT with pedal to the floor, then adjust linkage with all the way rearward at WOT.
Lifetime spent undoing Chevy mouth breather repairs.

The Lokar stuff is nice looking, but it can/has been problematic on daily drivers.
Your bolt in the groove idea works well , I have one on mine . If you look closely at my pictures you can see it , just behind the mopar pin , 5th picture. . It has worked very well over the years for me.
 

Gerald Morris

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Your bolt in the groove idea works well , I have one on mine . If you look closely at my pictures you can see it , just behind the mopar pin , 5th picture. . It has worked very well over the years for me.

It looks VERY practical. If the extension doesn't work, I can certainly scare up a short carriage bolt to pop in the slot. Practical looks GOOD in My Book.
 

BAD69FURY

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Despite the 1968 vintage of the body, I'm running a 1966 engine and transmission in Gertrude. After upgrading to the Edelbrock 1405, I haven't had a kickdown, despite my attempts at adjusting it as per the 1966 FSM. I now suspect nothing I do with the 2 barrel bellcrank and linkage will work. Despite Edelbrock's instructions as given here,
View attachment 564267 View attachment 564268

which sufficed for the THROTTLE, I now expect to kick down more cash to get a working kickdown. As usual, good Moparian references from the vendor can't be had beyond a few small adapters, which can be seen in use below.
View attachment 564269

The throttle adapter, stud and a nut from their kickdown rod extender are all I have installed on my linkage. That extender extended the length of my kickdown rod beyond useful length. The fine thread nut helps a little bit...

Do any of you Wise Elders know of an optimal hardware solution here? I've seen a number of after market options for 4 barrel carburetor kickdown and throttle adapters meant for the 727 and B/RB engines, and have seen some OEM Mopar hardware too. Any helpful advice, and/or hardware for the right price will be MUCH appreciated! While I have got the shifting how I like it, with a little SNAP, but not too much, I don't want to ruin this transmission, and prefer a working kickdown to having to drop it into the lower gear from the column shifter.
I went through this very problem awhile back. I finally got to the bottom of my throttle/kickdown linkage problems, after wasting lots of time trying to figure out the new linkage geometry like playing with a rubix cube I decided to remove everything and toss it in the bin. Installed a lokar cable kit, problem solved!

2F29C27E-AAE0-4E43-919D-5022C7595FFB.jpeg


03B4475D-2FFD-43F9-A9AE-12CD60516AC8.jpeg
 

CBODY67

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Only issue appears to be that on the GM set-up, the KD cable is PULLED rather than being PUSHED. On the Chrysler set-up, everything is pushed rearward by the same stud, whether the short version or the long version for AT and such.

FWIW,
CBODY67
 

Gerald Morris

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I went through this very problem awhile back. I finally got to the bottom of my throttle/kickdown linkage problems, after wasting lots of time trying to figure out the new linkage geometry like playing with a rubix cube I decided to remove everything and toss it in the bin. Installed a lokar cable kit, problem solved!

View attachment 564470

View attachment 564471

The Lokar KD kit is due here Thursday. I incline to your view of things, but I sometimes can improvise good low budge solutions too. We'll see how this goes. I suspect I will wind up installing the new stuff though....
 

Loadrunner

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I don't remember having much trouble with throttle/KD linkage when switching to an AFB some decades ago on LA 318.
 

Gerald Morris

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I don't remember having much trouble with throttle/KD linkage when switching to an AFB some decades ago on LA 318.

TROUBLE NO LONGER! Got it working fine and dandy an hr or so ago. Ticket WAS to put the stock Mopar throttle cable and kickdown stud from my Carter on, along w the Carter return spring anchor up front. With the KD and accelerator tension aligned, then the kickdown had enough force to activate from the tension on the cable. I might need to turn the KD slot another turn or 2 to optimize things, but the shifting is now close to standard speeds for up and down at given RPMs. Was FUN to floor it to WOT this afternoon for a second or 2. The secondaries got to do their thing then. NOT something to make a HABIT these daze.... but its good to know it does its job.
 

Welder guy

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That’s great news , time to go waste some gas finding out how your passing kick down feels at 60 when you punch it . Post some pictures of your linkage setup now .
 

Gerald Morris

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That’s great news , time to go waste some gas finding out how your passing kick down feels at 60 when you punch it . Post some pictures of your linkage setup now .

After I fetch the Babushka home. Her dollar makes the fun happen here. Petrol expended in the Pursuit of Truth is NEVER wasted, especially with old Mopars!
 

Gerald Morris

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I lied. Here be sum Aye Kandy now:

Mopar throttle stud in place.
1666738868275.png


Carter return spring anchor with old OEM springs. I'll see about a 2nd spring for the throttle. I screwed up those I had. I like 2 springs there.
1666738933827.png
 

Welder guy

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Your linkage geometry looks a lot better. When you have a chance hook your Throttle return spring on the same spot as the throttle cable is mounted on the pin ,look at my 5th picture for reference. Then Bend the throttle spring bracket towards your drivers side valve cover till your return spring is aligned straight with your throttle cable . Doing this will also help align the spring going to your kick down linkage. At your next opportunity replace the wire with the proper carb linkage clips , the use of wire will cause you issues in the future. Then take your car for a test drive and fine tune the kick down.
 
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Gerald Morris

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Your linkage geometry looks a lot better. When you have a chance hook your Throttle return spring on the same spot as the throttle cable is mounted on the pin ,look at my 5th picture for reference. Then Bend the throttle spring bracket towards your drivers side valve cover till your return spring is aligned straight with your throttle cable . Doing this will also help align the spring going to your kick down linkage. At your next opportunity replace the wire with the proper carb linkage clips , the use of wire will cause you issues in the future. Then take your car for a test drive and fine tune the kick down.

OK, hooking the return spring right to the throttle pin WILL work better for the OEM Mopar spring in particular. It's hooks are rotated 90 degrees from each other. I DO intend to get some snap retainers for that pin, for the kickdown slide. BAILING WIRE works as an expedient only. I lost my snaps to that dolt mechanic. At least I got the larger parts back from him.

Yes, 0 degree alignment always makes the most efficient application of tension and compression. Phy 101. I reckon bending the return bracket at bit won't hurt it. Y'all didn't see how things were at the SHOP, thus I offered the Stromberg bracket, just to get the thing out the door.....

Need to find some snap ring retainers now. THX.
 

Gerald Morris

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Looks like the kickdown linkage is set so nicely that I now doubt I'll even want the 4 bbl throttle bracket I ordered. Still, it would be nice to have things set up with the right hardware, IFF it doesn't bugger the KD linkage now. Odd how apparently, the 1966 bellcrank and bracketing is a "1 Size For All" sort of solution. I'm apt to keep it.

Here are a few pics of how it all hangs together now.
1666818535697.png

There, nice, canonical throttle linkage with spring hooked under throttle cable pin, and E=clips in grooves, retaining washer and kickdown slide on the stud. All that's lacking remains a nice little second spring to place concentric with the first as backup. Shifting all on the proper speed/rpm ratios, with good KD response on WOT/ MY how those secondaries GUZZLE that premium petrol, but Ohhh how SMOOTH the POWER comes on!
1666818844263.png

This is ALL the bending I'm putting on this old bracket! I nudged it over a few degrees to straighten the spring tension some, and this I'll call "Good."
 
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