1972 Imperial Revival Thread

I shared the idea to replace the Holley 4160 on a 440 once and was told it would be a downgrade to install any AVS carburetor.

A Holley 4160 when new did run better than an AVS Carter carburetor. It had a stronger accelerator pump shot and a richer off idle flow curve. The problem with the original 4160 Holley was that they didn't last more than a couple years of normal driving before giving driveability problems due to warped metering blocks sandwitched in the middle of the carburetor due to repeated heating and cooling cycles and poor casting materials used back then.

An original AVS carburetor ran OK when new but not as strongly as a Holley 4160 especially off the line acceleration.

The original AVS carburetors often displayed some stumbling on acceleration or sags when driven with a cold engine but they cleared up and drove smoothly once the heat crossover was heated up but not as well as a good 4160.

The AVS II carburetor is very similar to the original AVS carburetor in design but the Edelbrock version (AVS II) has better atomization of fuel at the nozzles even when cold and therefore runs just fine even without the intake manifold crossover heated up to help atomize the fuel. As such, the AVS II carburetors seem to match the performance of the original Holley 4160s even when cold and seem to have richer off idle and better WOT accelerations from stop than the original AVS carburetors in part because the AVS II seems richer in calibration than the original ones in the lower speed ranges.
 
The car will run on ether but I get a huge fireball out of the carb. I have timing set correctly at 12°BTC.

I will be doing a few tests on the engine in the next few weeks. I suspect that the engine may have a damaged or sticking intake valve.
 
I ordered a new gas tank, straps and a sending unit and will be installing them before trying anything else. I will be reusing the original lock ring for the sending unit.

I will replace the carburetor and get the car running. Unfortunately snow is supposed to be on the ground for the weekend, but I will be ready for warmer days.

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Some work done. I got my new gas tank in and six new hood bumpers in. I also got my radiator back from the local shop and three new wheels to replace the two incorrect wheels and missing spare.

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Progress is always rewarding.

Just wondering, is that a 26" radiator or a 28" one? I am just asking because the factory setups seem to usually have thin rods across them for added stiffness I believe with the 72 and 73 models at least as I recall with the 28" versions that were standard with those Imperials. Did you rebuilder just leave them off or did you opt for a little narrower radiator? The workmanship looks good.
 
Progress is always rewarding.

Just wondering, is that a 26" radiator or a 28" one? I am just asking because the factory setups seem to usually have thin rods across them for added stiffness I believe with the 72 and 73 models at least as I recall with the 28" versions that were standard with those Imperials. Did you rebuilder just leave them off or did you opt for a little narrower radiator? The workmanship looks good.
It is the factory radiator. The recore was $700. The shop did not put the wire back. I was a little bummed but I was told it is not an issue.
 
I got tired of the nasty, ratty tail pipe so I broke out the MAPP gas torch and the sawzall. I’m going to get the muffler removed next, and replace them with the NOS pieces I bought months ago.

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I got the old trailer hitch off of the car and the new tailpipe mocked up. I am taking the intermediate pipe off to get the muffler off.

The pile of old parts is starting. I will be doing shocks and suspension soon.

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The longer KYB rear shocks KG5413 are correct for the Imperial. The listed shocks in catalogue are too short, then you have to watch the rear brake flex line it will be pulled tight. I used the 72 dodge pick up truck rear flex line.
 
The longer KYB rear shocks KG5413 are correct for the Imperial. The listed shocks in catalogue are too short, then you have to watch the rear brake flex line it will be pulled tight. I used the 72 dodge pick up truck rear flex line.
I will be trying the Bilsteins from Firm Feel.

I have a new flex line, but I will see if it matches the length of the original first. Thanks for the tip.
 
I will be trying the Bilsteins from Firm Feel.

I have a new flex line, but I will see if it matches the length of the original first. Thanks for the tip.
I was going to suggest the Bilsteins, I will be trying the Bilsteins shocks when I get them to make a front sway bar. Call Frank at firm feel if you want a front sway bar. Might get him excited on the idea if more then one person calls about a sway bar for our Imperials. I am working on haveing a bar dropped off to Firm Feel for a template.
 
Here is the pile of scrap that came off the car. I may save the hitch but it is so light duty it needs work for towing a real trailer.

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A new carburetor is now in place. I was able to get the carburetor stud installed as well. The fuel pump is the issue at the moment.

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I hope your push rod for the fuel pump is okay...I had this happen, where I replaced the fuel pump but still had fuel delivery issues...turned out to be the rod.
 
I hope your push rod for the fuel pump is okay...I had this happen, where I replaced the fuel pump but still had fuel delivery issues...turned out to be the rod.
No. The dipstick shows 10 qts. So the diaphragm broke and pumped 5 qts. of gas into the crankcase.
 
I will be reviving my Imperial this spring, but I am gathering parts and doing small things this winter to help me stay occupied. I am making this my progress thread if anyone wants to follow along.

For those who do not know I went to Ohio and picked up this Imperial out of an old car dealership. It was originally owned by a man in Michigan. He is the owner of a plastic manufacturing plant that makes many reproduction Mopar parts.

It was advertised as a barn find of course. These are the ad pictures.

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Nice project
 
New hanger parts are here tomorrow, I will be ordering two muffler clamps from Accurate Exhaust once I measure the muffler inlet/outlet.

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