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68 Fury 3 questions
- Thread starter 68furyIII
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What a wimp! Just because its over 90°F and 90% humidity for 9 months of the year............... LOL!
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
It's not that, Kevin. It's the idea of having a major component in a car and have it not working that drives me nuts. I remove the bulb from the trunk light and I can't sleep.
When I see $12 - $15K cars for sale and see the heater hose looped, it drives me over the edge.
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When I see $12 - $15K cars for sale and see the heater hose looped, it drives me over the edge.
Posted via Topify on Android
Last edited:
Alchemi
Member
looks like the top tank of the radiator is leaking - some of those cores are green on the battery side
Okay so after getting the car back from and talking to my friend he said the lower radiator hoses were plugged up with a bunch of **** and he flushed the system well and replaced all the hoses. Said I should also probably get a radiator.
Couple more questions, numbered just to keep it organized
1. I would like to and think I need to replace the shocks as they never have been. What do you guys think of the KYB GR-2? I'm just looking for basic replacements, maybe a little step up.
2. I've replaced shocks before but wondering how difficult these are if any of you guys have done them.
3. As I mentioned earlier I don't think the carb has been touched so I was thinking a basic carb rebuild/tune up kit, suggestions?
4. Someone mentioned the stalling issue could be a float? Will that be taken care of with the carb repair?
5. I asked on BITOG but wanted to ask here also for what you guys run for oil and ATF? I was going to use a solid conventional oil like pennzoil yellow bottle and wasn't sure on trans fluid.
6. I noticed the engine fan looks slightly small and only has four blades, I'm assuming stock. Could upgrading to a slightly larger one with more blades help with the cooling issues or not worth it?
Thanks again for all the help thus far.
Couple more questions, numbered just to keep it organized
1. I would like to and think I need to replace the shocks as they never have been. What do you guys think of the KYB GR-2? I'm just looking for basic replacements, maybe a little step up.
2. I've replaced shocks before but wondering how difficult these are if any of you guys have done them.
3. As I mentioned earlier I don't think the carb has been touched so I was thinking a basic carb rebuild/tune up kit, suggestions?
4. Someone mentioned the stalling issue could be a float? Will that be taken care of with the carb repair?
5. I asked on BITOG but wanted to ask here also for what you guys run for oil and ATF? I was going to use a solid conventional oil like pennzoil yellow bottle and wasn't sure on trans fluid.
6. I noticed the engine fan looks slightly small and only has four blades, I'm assuming stock. Could upgrading to a slightly larger one with more blades help with the cooling issues or not worth it?
Thanks again for all the help thus far.
greasemonkeyman
Well-Known Member
As for going with KYB shocks,they make a pretty decent shock for your typical daily driver.The rears are fairly easy to replace,the fronts can require partial disassembly of the front suspension due to the location of the shock itself. You could go with a rebuild on your carb,and yes,the stuck float could be causing your car to stall,but there may also be other issues that are causing the problem too.If it's been sitting for quite a while then I'd definately rebuild the carb or replace it with an aftermarket from Carter/Edelbrock. They are great off the shelf carbs that will be good for daily usage without too much trouble and perform decently right out of the box. As for oil,everyone has their own preferences. A seven blade fan would be an upgrade over your existing four blade that you have now.Usually the seven blade fans came on AC equipped cars.You could also go with an aluminum radiator to help improve cooling.Because I live in Florida,I always try to go with maximum cooling on anything I own. An aluminum radiator will cool better than spending approximately the same amount of money to rebuild/replace your existing radiator and depending on what you have.There are 22" and 26" wide units available.Like I said,bigger is better when it comes to cooling.You can also run an electric fan for pushing/pulling air thru your radiator to free up some drag on your engine but some of the purists here cringe at the thought.The choice is yours.You can get a used electric fan from a late model car for cheap at the salvage yards.Some people say run a fan shroud and it will run cooler,but it all depends on the vehicle. I haven't seen any definative evidence that proves this theory yet but I'm sure others will chime in.Make sure you flush out that engine block good with your lower hose disconnected.That sludge is most likely built up in your block and has partially blocked some of your cooling passages.Better to do it now rather than break down while your on the road,have to pay for a tow,and still have to deal with the problem,or worse yet,overheat your engine and blow a head gasket.Replace your water pump for good measure.They're somewhere around $30-40. Every little bit helps. Good Luck!
Thanks so much.
Was looking at doing the water pump while taking care of the cooling system.
Will look into the aftermarket carb after taking a peek at mine more thoroughly and seeing how it is.
I actually like the idea of an electric fan setup both to free up the motor and hopefully improve cooling over the stock fan. Going to look into that.
And the radiator has definitely seen better days so that was on my list.
Were the radiators the same on all the V8s? Or different?
Appreciate the tips.
Was looking at doing the water pump while taking care of the cooling system.
Will look into the aftermarket carb after taking a peek at mine more thoroughly and seeing how it is.
I actually like the idea of an electric fan setup both to free up the motor and hopefully improve cooling over the stock fan. Going to look into that.
And the radiator has definitely seen better days so that was on my list.
Were the radiators the same on all the V8s? Or different?
Appreciate the tips.
Rads are diff based on year, big / small block, 22" vs 26", A/C / No A/C, rows of cooling fins etc. If you have a local radiator shop check with them to see how much to rod it out and weld up leaks.
If you get a different one make sure the inlet and outlets are on the same side as the one you have.
If you get a different one make sure the inlet and outlets are on the same side as the one you have.
Just got the documentation from my grandfather for what has been done to the fury as of recently. Stuff worth noting listed below.
Ignition rotor
Gas filter
PVC valve
Spark plugs/wires
Distributor cap
"Generator" belt
Condensor
Set of points
Steering belt
Bleed/adjust brakes
Just sharing.
Also anyone have a ballpark cost on replacing the timing chain as mentioned previously?
Ignition rotor
Gas filter
PVC valve
Spark plugs/wires
Distributor cap
"Generator" belt
Condensor
Set of points
Steering belt
Bleed/adjust brakes
Just sharing.
Also anyone have a ballpark cost on replacing the timing chain as mentioned previously?
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
Change the water pump also while doing it
greasemonkeyman
Well-Known Member
Just my opinion,but unless your radiator looks like it's in real nice condition(and from what you've described,it does not),then I wouldn't waste any time or money trying to do anything with it.For about $200 you can get a new aluminum radiator that will not only look good but cool better than the stock unit.You can also spray it black if you so desire.Buy the largest one you can fit in your make/model if your running AC during the summer months, just added insurance that it won't overheat.Also replace your hoses while your at it,about $15 each.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
You could save a lot of beans doing the timing chain yourself....got an FSM?....just some elbow grease, tools, and an afternoon.....or two if you have never done it yourself.
I wasn't sure about doing the timing chain myself, just didn't know how technical it was. But do have a fsm on order so possibly.
I do plan on just ordering a new radiator as well. I'm having trouble finding any let alone an aluminum model for my car. Would I be better off just buying an aluminum radiator based on measurements and hose locations and not a direct fit? Seems so.
I was looking at something like one of these two with similar size specs and inlet/outlet placement however none of these have the top tank that the stock radiator does. Issue?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-1-26222-x/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-381425/overview/
I do plan on just ordering a new radiator as well. I'm having trouble finding any let alone an aluminum model for my car. Would I be better off just buying an aluminum radiator based on measurements and hose locations and not a direct fit? Seems so.
I was looking at something like one of these two with similar size specs and inlet/outlet placement however none of these have the top tank that the stock radiator does. Issue?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-1-26222-x/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-381425/overview/
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
They are out there:
Ebay:
Ebay:
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
I choose an aluminum radiator for mine. Here's where I purchased it: http://www.championradiators.com/ I like, no I love it. Its extremely light weight, I can literally pull it up and out with one hand and I think it looks better than the old brass one -- which I still have stored away however. Yeah as some others will suggest you can replace your with another stock piece, yawn.....but in the end the choice is completely up to you. I don't go over board with the customizations mainly b/c mopar did a great job with it the first time....but little things here and there are completely fine and cool to do. Don't agonize over it.
I'm with you on that one !
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