Wollfen's 1971 Sport Fury GT !

I agree....I've been putting premium in the old ones for forever. Only recently have I started to run it in everything
 
Yup the highest grade I could find, its still only 93 octane but that's better than the cheap gas ethanol blends they sell you now.
Where I am at even the 93 has 10% ethanol, you have to buy REC 90 or race gas to get alcohol free gas.
 
We have quite a few places that sell ethanol free premium.

We're right in the middle of a bunch of lakes (Finger Lakes and others) that there's a big demand for ethanol free gas. The ethanol does a number on the fiberglass boat tanks along with absorbing moisture.
 
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Bottom line it is not the environment saver people think it is, right now it is 3 percent of the energy market, if they want to make big inroads into that they will have to clear huge amounts of forest to make more farmland, seems to defeat the purpose of preserving the environment doesn't it?
 
Bottom line it is not the environment saver people think it is, right now it is 3 percent of the energy market, if they want to make big inroads into that they will have to clear huge amounts of forest to make more farmland, seems to defeat the purpose of preserving the environment doesn't it?

I have many doubts about the claims. Because you lose fuel economy I don't believe the CO2 factor is as good as they say it is in real world use. A little ethanol was always a trick to help co emissions for testing, but that is a very controlled drive pattern that really isn't going to duplicate how you may drive while trying to move weight through traffic. I think everyone noticed a little less power when they first switched fuels... and adjusted their driving accordingly (more throttle).
 
So this vacuum leak that isn't pulling the heater valve shut is driving me nuts. I have also deduced it is responsible for the slight miss too. The leak I have traced back to "somewhere" under the dash, this is no fun. Anyone have a vacuum routing diagram handy?
 
Lemme know if you find one. That would be really good document to have.

Also, I assume you figured out the over-heating problem ?
Yes, the super flush made the difference, while I would like it to be a bit cooler I can live with 170 driving. Once I have the vacuum issue dealt with that will have an affect too since the heater is constantly on at the moment.
 
A tad too cool, don'tcha think.
Modern oils need to run in the -+190 zone.
That is normally true but then again newer cars are designed to run at that hotter temperature too. It is why they all have overflow tanks for when the coolant pressure blows past the cap, then when it cools down the coolant is drawn back in again. Only thing is, when you run the 190+ temps in the old cars like 71 or earlier, you will see coolant exiting the overflow tube. Then when it all cools you have air in the top tank. I am going to see if it operates okay with that bit of air in the system as it gets up to 212 Fahrenheit when I stop the car. When I have the tank totally topped off I always end up with a small pool of coolant that overflows when I shut the engine off.
 
So I did a bunch of tracing vacuum lines from the engine bay and all through under the dash as well. That is not fun job, I identified a failed vacuum can which I replaced and finally found my vacuum leak. It is in the valve with two hoses going into it on one side of the control switch. I dug out two others and found only one works, so that's the one going back into the car. That's another issue fixed. I still haven't dealt with the wipers yet though.

AC controls.jpg
 
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