SOLD 1965 or 1966 Plymouth Fury 2-Door Post

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I probably wont do that. I was just thinking out loud. I probably should just put together a mild-mannered car that I can enjoy driving, instead of relegating it to just a Sat. night looking for a race on the street, which we all know is dangerous. I had a trans brake on my Dart and it made a great holeshot at 4,500 rpm.
 
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How wide a tire could a mini-tub accommodate?
You don't need a mini tub. I am in the measuring stages of putting a Dana in mine with a spring inboard kit. From the looks of it, you could get 14" tires in there, maybe more.

Oh and that Stan guy, Commando1....He put a 440 4 speed in that little black Fury1 he posted a picture of. He does some really nice work and probably knows more about the 66 Fury your talking about than anyone else I can think of. I don't know if he's going to offer advice though since, you know, this is a WTB thread.

For what it's worth, here's what 275/50 DRs look like on the rear. No rubbing.

furyrear.jpg
 
You don't need a mini tub. I am in the measuring stages of putting a Dana in mine with a spring inboard kit. From the looks of it, you could get 14" tires in there, maybe more.

Oh and that Stan guy, Commando1....He put a 440 4 speed in that little black Fury1 he posted a picture of. He does some really nice work and probably knows more about the 66 Fury your talking about than anyone else I can think of. I don't know if he's going to offer advice though since, you know, this is a WTB thread.

For what it's worth, here's what 275/50 DRs look like on the rear. No rubbing.

View attachment 86380
Thank you, Doug. ☺
 
Hey. Thanks for the offer, but I'm concerned about that grill. If a shop out there does repair/restore these, how much would it cost? Is this the same one that is for sale on American Auto Sales for $4,500? Same color, same right-hand grill damage. Funny thing, your car has no options, but the Fury II, which should have some options, has a lower production figure of 2,503 in '66. The Fury I had 12,538 examples produced in '66. Huh? Go figure.
Sending private message. I'm interested.
I wouldn't be too concerned with the grill they are out there and all models are the same with exception of the model emblem on the center piece. You should be concerned with the condition of the tail lights however because they are extremely hard to find for the Fury 1, let alone ones that are in decent condition and not all pitted up. Also consider the 66 Fury 1 had backup lights whereas the 65 did not.
 
I found several rear lights for both years on feebay last night. The '65 had back-up lights, but not on the trunk, you know. I think I may take on the blue one that someone sent me in this thread. If she only wants less than $1,500. for it, should I bother getting the car inspected and just ask for more pics? She said she doesn't care if I send an inspector. The cost would be about $140. What would you all do?
 
It has been sitting for 4 years, unprotected. The passenger floor pan has had a patch welded in place, but probably not a correct floor pan piece. Does anyone remake the floorpans for these? The trunk was repaired with fiberglass. It is a 318/727 with a replaced 2 barrel. It has new brake lines and 2 rear quarter panels that go with it (those panels are about $94. each on feebay) and all the interior is there. It was daily driven up until it was parked. Her husband who died, was the 2nd owner. All the glass is unbroken as well as the front/rear lights. I'm thinking that as long as the frame is not rusted through, then it is worth near what she is asking, but I am going to offer less. It has an old 8-track player still in it. I will need lots of advice on how to get it started again. I know I need to take off the drums and work on chasing away all the cobwebs, spiders and rust. I'll need to change the fluids, flush the radiator/water system. Get the gas tank cleaned out and a new filter installed, check the plugs/wires, etc., etc., etc.
 
It has been sitting for 4 years, unprotected. The passenger floor pan has had a patch welded in place, but probably not a correct floor pan piece. Does anyone remake the floorpans for these? The trunk was repaired with fiberglass. It is a 318/727 with a replaced 2 barrel. It has new brake lines and 2 rear quarter panels that go with it (those panels are about $94. each on feebay) and all the interior is there. It was daily driven up until it was parked. Her husband who died, was the 2nd owner. All the glass is unbroken as well as the front/rear lights. I'm thinking that as long as the frame is not rusted through, then it is worth near what she is asking, but I am going to offer less. It has an old 8-track player still in it. I will need lots of advice on how to get it started again. I know I need to take off the drums and work on chasing away all the cobwebs, spiders and rust. I'll need to change the fluids, flush the radiator/water system. Get the gas tank cleaned out and a new filter installed, check the plugs/wires, etc., etc., etc.
One company reproduces the floor pans. They are garbage. So are the reproduced quarters. It is most likely a 318 poly, unless it's been replaced. I would highly recommend having the car inspected, if you don't want a money pit (been there, done that).
 
Who do I send that fugly front bumper off to, to get it fixed? I know there are services out there that straighten-out bumpers. Who do you all recommend for re-chroming? Does Legendary have the interior for this car or does SMS? Another company? I can polish the stainless steel pieces myself. This car will REALLY keep me busy, but I will grateful. I haven't owned a cool Mopar in so long. I'd love to drive this one up to the Mopar Nationals in Ohio! I'd have to change the gears before I go and change them back when I get there, if it isn't a huge hassle.
 
The Horvaths, you are here. Well, if they are garbage, what do I do? Use them anyways? Is the metal a thin gauge/gage? I'm sure this car is a money pit, that it needs a lot of fixing, but if I can get it running and repair the rusty areas first and get them primed, then I can worry about the cosmetics later.
 
I need to go to bed because I like to get up around 6am. I hope you all can offer advice/solutions to my queries. Thanks everyone.
 
The Horvaths, you are here. Well, if they are garbage, what do I do? Use them anyways? Is the metal a thin gauge/gage? I'm sure this car is a money pit, that it needs a lot of fixing, but if I can get it running and repair the rusty areas first and get them primed, then I can worry about the cosmetics later.
They were unusable in my case. Thin as a tin can.
 
It has been sitting for 4 years, unprotected. The passenger floor pan has had a patch welded in place, but probably not a correct floor pan piece. Does anyone remake the floorpans for these? The trunk was repaired with fiberglass. It is a 318/727 with a replaced 2 barrel. It has new brake lines and 2 rear quarter panels that go with it (those panels are about $94. each on feebay) and all the interior is there. It was daily driven up until it was parked. Her husband who died, was the 2nd owner. All the glass is unbroken as well as the front/rear lights. I'm thinking that as long as the frame is not rusted through, then it is worth near what she is asking, but I am going to offer less. It has an old 8-track player still in it. I will need lots of advice on how to get it started again. I know I need to take off the drums and work on chasing away all the cobwebs, spiders and rust. I'll need to change the fluids, flush the radiator/water system. Get the gas tank cleaned out and a new filter installed, check the plugs/wires, etc., etc., etc.
I have never used an inspector, but I don't disagree with the concept. A rusty, non-running low dollar project car... what do you think he will tell you? If anything, I would be interested in getting it on a lift and beating the underside with a hammer just to find all the soft spots... how many sellers would go for that on a known rust bucket?

As I mentioned before, if you have visions of altering the rearend for drag racing and you have the fabrication skills and equipment, this could be a good start.

If you are not prepared to do all that or pay huge dollars for someone else to, keep shopping and spend the money on a nice driver that you can slowly change while enjoying. I spent well over a year finding my cars... and honestly, I just got lucky to do as well as I did (lottery winner lucky). My parts car had a lot less demands put on it's condition... and I got lucky there too.

You are going to be ahead in the end if you avoid body work and paint... unless you have the skills to do it yourself, these cost $$$ and even with the skills you would be surprised how fast the materials add up.

If you can accept that your car won't be the "street race hero"... and you had better because without some really big dollars any late model semi-performance car WILL kick your ***... you can do anything mechanically to these cars on reasonable money and have an awesome cruiser.
 
Cantflip, point well taken. I'd love to revive this car, but I don't have the skill sets needed to do most/all of the work myself. I know these cars will all have some amounts of rust on the quarters and frame, I just need to find one whose frame is not in need of patching. The floorboards and trunk are another thing. The Horvaths told me the floor patches for these cars are bad as well as the rear quarter panels. I guess the search continues. I turned down a one-owner, garage-kept $3,500. Barracuda to pursue these Furys. I must be insane. I do want a grocery-getter like these '65-'66's as a sleeper. They were actually lighter than my mom's '75 Cutlass Supreme 2-door.
 
Check it out guys! Here's what daddy is bringin' home! Found it a few hours ago. I want to thank Cantflip for the great advice about looking around and not settling for a serious fixer-upper and thanks goes out to 65Fury440 for the heads-up on the Craigslist national search link! You guys helped make it happen for me! Here it is:1966 Plymouth Fury I MOPAR
 
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