If not done already, check the short piece of fuel line AT the tank. If the car's that old, it might well have the original hose on it, which was well prior to ethanol-blend fuel. Just normal age issues, plus the ethanol'd fuel might have caused a delamination of the inner layer of rubber, in the wrong direction of fuel flow.
Idle speed? Somewhere around 650 with the a/c running. Key test is to get a smooth engagement into "D" from "N". "R" will always be a little firmer engagement as the line pressure doesn't have an "accumulator" in that fluid circuit in the valve body, as the "D" circuits do. Or is it higher line pressure by itself? One of the two.
Going into gear, it should just happen smoothly with no jerks or roughness.
Timing? The factory spec is 2.5 degrees BTDC for an idle emissions reason, but the total advance at that setting is still what it used to be, on the original distributor. On my '66 Newport (closed chamber factory heads), the setting was 12.5 degrees, but the same total advance (initial and total centrifugal in the distributor). I could set the idle speed by advancing the distributor, but not on my '70 Monaco 383 4bbl (open chamber heads). From the stock setting, more advance didn't change idle speed very much at all. Once you get it running reliably and can drive it a ways, then you can advance the timing to the point you get trace rattle on mild acceleration, then tick it back a degree or two. In theory, IF the engine is an original 4bbl motor (check VIN digit), then you can probably expect to use at least "mid-grade" or "premium" octane fuels, but this can be variable.
Some like electric fuel pumps and they have their place, but the factory pumps on Chryslers worked fine. The fuel filter DID mount between a short piece of fuel pipe coming out of the fuel pump, then the filter was pretty vertical, then a metal line went to the carb from there. At least with earlier fuels, it worked pretty good.
With an electric pump, you need ONLY the stock fuel pressure pump (5.5psi or so) to not overpower the needle and seat in the carb and not have any pressure issues with the normal rubber fuel lines.
As the vehicle has been sitting for a good while, you will probably need to remove the tank for a good rinse and check for rust. Might be necessary to add a fuel filter prior to the pump to catch any rust particles before they get to the fuel pump, plus the filter between the pump and engine. At least until you're confident the lines are all clean and such. A marine fuel filter, with different fittings on the end, can be found at WalMart, for example. A clear center section with a mesh filter element that can be disassembled and cleaned, if needed.
CBODY67