1966 Polara 500 Ragtop

I also ran my fender tag today. I had a couple of of my Mopar buds question that the 4bbl intake and carb was original to the car. It spurned on my search for a proper decoder and I found the 66-67 Charger site.
So my engine code is 62...383 4bbl 325 hp. 5 for Torqueflite auto.
However the mystery continues...A Polara 500 convertible should have been a DM price code according to most sources. Yet this car is a DL code. It is an early production model... December 8th 1965. It has the correct dash emblem.
 
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I had a '65 back in the day, with the 4bbl 383. I'd do 40 feet of smoky one wheel peel.
The rest of the story is for another campfire.
 
if you look in the front of the parts book, where it lists the models and levels, the Polara, being the "entry level" full-size Dodge is "L" for "low". My '66 Newport Town Sedan is "L", but my '67 Newport "23" is "E" (economy). The Town Sedan, in '66, was like the later Newport Custom, with nicer interior trim than other Newport sedans/hardtops, which might relate to it being "L" than "E"?

The "500" is for the bucket seat option package, which does not relate to the VIN price level designation.

CBODY67
 
I also ran my fender tag today. I had a couple of of my Mopar buds question that the 4bbl intake and carb was original to the car. It spurned on my search for a proper decoder and I found the 66-67 Charger site.
So my engine code is 62...383 4bbl 325 hp. 5 for Torqueflite auto.
However the mystery continues...A Polara 500 convertible should have been a DM price code according to most sources. Yet this car is a DL code. It is an early production model... December 8th 1965. It has the correct dash emblem.
Post #20, both are '66 Polar 500's.
 
Awesome car, man. I'm rather impressed by the condition of the interior (though I only saw one shot in your garage). She looks to be a solid ride. Best of luck getting her back on the road!
 
Awesome car, man. I'm rather impressed by the condition of the interior (though I only saw one shot in your garage). She looks to be a solid ride. Best of luck getting her back on the road!

Thanks, but the pictures paint an illusion. I'll posting pictures soon of the flaws I've uncovered with a bit more scrutiny. Overall the car is complete but certain things are worn out and holding together by a thread, or two. It's only money, right? :)
 
Thanks, but the pictures paint an illusion. I'll posting pictures soon of the flaws I've uncovered with a bit more scrutiny. Overall the car is complete but certain things are worn out and holding together by a thread, or two. It's only money, right? :)
Yea, I ran into a similar deal with my 67 ... but of course, it's only money ... and time .. and likely a little blood.
 
I've shown you the good and the bad, now let me show you some of the ugly...
Water pump has play, belt is loose, not sure of the idler pulley so we're replacing it all.
IMG_20190226_135431.jpg

Mechanic says the fuel pump got no suck, so I've got one coming.
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Belts are shot, heater hoses...one is original? Got a wire clamp on it. Cut it short instead and took it out of the alternator bracket.
IMG_20190226_135517.jpg

Battery tray rot, sway bar bushings, all but gone. Mice enjoyed the negative cable insulation!
IMG_20190226_135726.jpg

IMG_20190226_135522.jpg


Grille is intact but....Can
IMG_20190226_140009.jpg
this be repainted? Passenger quarter. Easy fix, but paint?
IMG_20190226_140036.jpg

This is the 2nd worst...passenger windshield frame. Any suggestions?
IMG_20190226_140058.jpg


I have one more spot but it's inside the car. I didn't unlock it but will post a photo later. Right now I'm gathering up parts, hoses, belts and the like.
 
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A pillar is rusted, you will need to pull the chrome trim and the windshield to see what what is left of the window channel. If the rust is no too bad, small holes can be welded shut or spliced. These convertibles were famous for rusty A Pillars. Rear quarter damage is minor and easily repaired. As long as the water pump and pulleys are apart, this would be a good time to do the timing chain as well.

Dave
 
Thanks, I'll check that out.
I'd like to find a straight re chromeable front bumper and drivers parking light assembly.
Right now, the priority is getting it to run so it can be moved under it's own power. My "guy " has been too busy to get to the car and it's been sitting out in his storage lot.
I'm becoming a bit disappointed with that. But he's a friend and has always helped me out. He's one of the few people I trust with my Mopars.

On a better note, we got the car registered and plated. It went rather smoothly.
 
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I stopped by the shop Friday (8th) and helped push the car into the building.

While I don't believe it was worked on, we had hail warnings for Saturday, and sure enough we got pretty good sized stuff.

The plan is to fix the fuel issue, flush the radiator and replace the water pump. Then he'll inspect the brakes and front suspension and replace any worn out components. That will get the car driveable and I can start working on it at home.
 
I stopped by the shop Friday (8th) and helped push the car into the building.

While I don't believe it was worked on, we had hail warnings for Saturday, and sure enough we got pretty good sized stuff.

The plan is to fix the fuel issue, flush the radiator and replace the water pump. Then he'll inspect the brakes and front suspension and replace any worn out components. That will get the car driveable and I can start working on it at home.

smart move:thumbsup:
 
Just wanted to let everyone know that the Polara starts, runs and moves under it's own power. New fuel pump and some fresh fuel hose. Mechanic says it needs a tune-up. If I can get it home I'll have to familiarize myself with the big block.
YAY!

Does anyone have a "guy" they get vintage US made tune up pieces. I don't need date coded stuff. This is a driver.
 
Just wanted to let everyone know that the Polara starts, runs and moves under it's own power. New fuel pump and some fresh fuel hose. Mechanic says it needs a tune-up. If I can get it home I'll have to familiarize myself with the big block.
YAY!

Does anyone have a "guy" they get vintage US made tune up pieces. I don't need date coded stuff. This is a driver.

Tuning a big block like yours is not rocket science. Down load a copy of the FSM at www.mymopar.com the FSM will be found in the "Tools/Reference" section. This has all the spec's you need to properly tune your car. I have been doing my own tune ups since I was 16 and got my first car. The main critical items are setting the point gap and plug gap.

For a good tune up, tools needed:
Screwdriver
Feeler Gauge
Plug Gap Gauge
3/8" Socket set in fractional
Timing light
(Optional, Compression Tester, Dwell Meter)

If you do not feel comfortable doing the work yourself, find and old line shop with some geezer mechanics. Most modern techs are lost trying to work on anything without a computer.

Dave
 
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