1966 chrysler 300 wheel studs

Bryon Mason

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Looking to put aftermarket wheels on my 300, is it possible to swap out the wheel studs so they are all "righty" . Anyone have any luck doing this?
 
Has been done for decades, puttinmg rh studs where the lh studs are. Unless you can find some of the lh lug nuts for your new wheels . . .

CBODY67
 
If you have drums on the front, the "by the book" way of replacing the front studs is to have it done by a machine shop. They are swaged to the drums and there is a special cutter that removes the swage and then they are supposed to be reswaged when done.

If you want to try, you may be able to remove the studs yourself, being careful to support the hub real well while pressing out the studs. Without reswaging, you would be able to remove the drum without removing the hub. GM vehicles were mostly this way from the factory, so not sure if it's really necessary to reswage the drums.

Jeff
 
On my car, I grinded out the swage.
Then knocked the hub away from the drum and knocked out the studs.
I did not have a press so I used a mallet and punch to set the stud and extra cheap chrome lug nuts with an impact gun to pull the studs back into the hub.
I did not swage the new studs which as mentioned makes brake adjustments easy with sliding the drum on/off.
Order Raybestos studs. The Dorman ones are not so good.
EDIT> Read next post as mobileparts has NOS studs..
boab october 2017 010.JPG
 
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Most people on this site know that I have N.O.S. U.S.A. made Wheel Studs --- LEFTY and Righty ....
Yes , absolutely, you can use a Righty for a LEFTY, they are less expensive, and far more available....

I am the only person on planet Earth with LEFTYS......

If you need or want me, Always best to simply call me
--- Craig --- 516 - 485 - 1935.....
 
One of the unique features of older Mopars are the "lefty" lugs on the left side. It's like a badge of honor to me. (it's in the details).
If you need all right hand threads, buy a Ford or GM..... :poke:
 
So now I'm wondering if I knock the studs in on the rear hubs on my 63 would I be able to pull the drums with out messing with the keyed hubs?
 
Totally going to try to pull the drum off the left front on my 65 next time I have the wheel off. Thanks
 
So now I'm wondering if I knock the studs in on the rear hubs on my 63 would I be able to pull the drums with out messing with the keyed hubs?
Un;ess somebody here has done otherwise,correct me if I am wrong;
To really get rid of the keyed rear drums/axles you have to swap out to a 1965-newer complete rear and matching drums.
 
Definitely something I need to look into. Have a 63 b body waiting patiently for its resification. also have plans to get a 64 300 to add to the fleet.
 
So now I'm wondering if I knock the studs in on the rear hubs on my 63 would I be able to pull the drums with out messing with the keyed hubs?


I probably should elaborate.

Knock the studs in (probably can't anyway) and you won't be able to pull the drum off.

The studs are pressed into the hub that is part of the drum. You need the studs to attach the puller to for one thing.

This is what the axle shaft looks like in your car. Note that there is no flange for the wheel studs.

s-l300.jpg


Compared to a later axle shaft with a flange and wheel studs pressed in.

s-l300.jpg


This is what your brake drum looks like. Similar to the front where the hub is part of the drum

KM-71093-2T.jpg


A newer style brake drum.

s-l225.jpg
 
Those are kicking pictures but this is more what I had in mind. Mopar Tapered Axle BrakesView attachment 430702
Well, the answer is still no.

You can do that once you get it all apart. The hub is still in the drum, held in by the swedged studs and the light press fit into the center. I've done the same thing on front drums, basically making them slip over the hub so they can be removed without taking the front bearing apart. I made a cutter to trim the swedged studs away from the old drum and then knocked the whole thing apart. IIRC, I opened up the lug holes a tad on a new drum so it slipped over the existing studs and the center hole was perfect size. Just had to clean up the hub a bit to make it slide together.

It's all good... But you gotta get it off the car first.

I don't see why you want to not pull it apart first. Yea, it takes a puller and sometimes it's a little stubborn, but they come apart.
 
Since my 63 hasn't been on the road since 76 I probably will have to do the axle seals anyway. Hub has to come off for that anyway.
 
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