1968 LeBaron

My book says charcoal gray metallic. Nice car Hemitheus. What was it like dealing with the family who owned the collection?
Real good. The gransdon, Blake, is a real good guy. Down to earth. I was expecting a lot more pretentious. Fortunately there was none of that.
 
My book says charcoal gray metallic. Nice car Hemitheus. What was it like dealing with the family who owned the collection?

Does your book reference the color code for Charcoal Gray Metallic? the name is spot on. Fender tag says 551. Odd that I cant find that code anywhere in the internet. THe most I could find is "5" which is close-ish I suppose.

http://www.tpocr.com/images/paintchip/68chry.jpg
 
Does your book reference the color code for Charcoal Gray Metallic? the name is spot on. Fender tag says 551. Odd that I cant find that code anywhere in the internet. THe most I could find is "5" which is close-ish I suppose.

http://www.tpocr.com/images/paintchip/68chry.jpg
It is just that, 551. It basically means that the whole car is that color or it is monotone.
 
Cool, thanks. Is it an uncommon color? google search has yielded little results. I like the color a lot.



Anyone have any ideas on the electrical drama?
 
No Ideas but some good advice. Mr. C gave you some to get you started by getting with the Imperial club and making all the friendz you can. And my advice: Hunt up a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL for your year and make a copy of it your very own FO EVAH! Not Chilson's or Hayne's but the real FSM. Copy's are available if the true FSM printings are too much for you. Contact Irv Bishko down in Lima, OHOHO. Irv probably haz both, Jer
 
Can you be more specific about your electrical issues?
 
R5 is am/fm search tune radio
I think N7 is rear seat heater and defroster
g0 is manufactured for export
 
Nice car. Its technically a D body, nothing else rides like one.

D body? Imperial only?

No Ideas but some good advice. Mr. C gave you some to get you started by getting with the Imperial club and making all the friendz you can. And my advice: Hunt up a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL for your year and make a copy of it your very own FO EVAH! Not Chilson's or Hayne's but the real FSM. Copy's are available if the true FSM printings are too much for you. Contact Irv Bishko down in Lima, OHOHO. Irv probably haz both, Jer


Irv Bishko? A member here? I am trying to find a FSM that isnt high $
Can you be more specific about your electrical issues?
Nothing electrically works on the car except engine function, the radio and the window motors. The Check gauges light is on. No headlights, no taillights (but I do have brake lights) no signals, no interior lights, no dash lights or A/C Heat.

R5 is am/fm search tune radio
I think N7 is rear seat heater and defroster
g0 is manufactured for export


Thanks for the decoding help
 
Here's a little more to add to the D-Body confusion....

On a side note... 1975 was the last year for full size Imperial. Ma Moper re-skinned the 1976-1978 New Yorker's from the 1975 Imperial. On the lip of my hood on my 1978 New Yorker there is a "Y" stamped on it because it's an Imperial hood. My 1978 Newport has a "C" stamped on the lip of the hood. The hoods are different...the center line of the hood is taller on the "Y" hood. They'll interchange between cars but it wouldn't look right or line up height wise with the header.

http://www.allpar.com/ed/imperial-body.html
 
D body? Imperial only?

Yes



Irv Bishko? A member here? I am trying to find a FSM that isnt high $

I think I have a '68 Imperial fsm that I could part with, let me check.


Nothing electrically works on the car except engine function, the radio and the window motors. The Check gauges light is on. No headlights, no taillights (but I do have brake lights) no signals, no interior lights, no dash lights or A/C Heat.

That's not good. Start checking bulbs but I'm guessing you're in for a rather expensive electrical headache. A tilt/tele turn signal switch for these cars can be hard to come by and expensive when you find one, you'll probably need to have the panel dimmer rebuilt, etc..


Thanks for the decoding help

no problem. Did you look for the build sheet yet?
 
Might be as simple as no power getting to the main fuse block. If the cars been sitting our buddies (mice or vermine) could have knocked something out. Or dirty connections. The starter etc won't run through there. Just a thought.
 
CD or paper copy or both available.......

He's always has a booth set up at Carlisle.

http://www.autobooksbishko.com/

Thank you, that isnt a bad price at all.

no problem. Did you look for the build sheet yet?

Not yet. While the car is purchased, i havent transported it yet.

Might be as simple as no power getting to the main fuse block. If the cars been sitting our buddies (mice or vermine) could have knocked something out. Or dirty connections. The starter etc won't run through there. Just a thought.

This is somewhat where I was in my thought process. You know. As I am laying in bed trying to go to sleep but all I can think about is the new Imperial. HAHA
 
Thanks Bob for doing the chase on Irv Bishko. I'm sure Hemitheus appreciatez it too. Irv's a good guy. I've been dealing with him since he waz living in an eastern burb of Cleveland 30 yearz ago but Matt iz a more then good friend and he'z even closer then Lima, Ohio for yeah Hemitheus. Anyway git the FSM az soon az you can and don't get airborn crossin' the tracks on Pelham north or south bound 'cuz theyz way hard on everything man or metal, Jer
 
The "Check Gauges" light comes on when the oil pressure is low or when the fuel is low. I don't think it comes on for engine temp.

I think there is a separate oil pressure switch for the "Check Gauges" light, so your oil pressure gauge could be working properly but you could still be getting a light.

The most common reason (based on my anecdotal reading of the Imperial Club archives) is that the gas gauge isn't operating properly.

As for some of your other questions, Imperials had special striped tires, which could be one of your codes, electric antennas were options as well, so that's possible, even likely. Tilt/tele is also a common option, so you probably decoded that correctly as well.

There's lots of info out there on the turn signal cams. As Matt said, they're a pain. I think they're also a GM part, so they're currently reproduced, but do require some fiddling to get to work right in our cars. This info can be found at the Imperial club. There's also a Yahoo! Group for Imperials. Lots of good people there (mostly the same as the ones on the site).

There's a guy in Michigan who is restoring a '68 Lebaron. Lots of good info on his website about pulling the dash, rebuilding the engine, refinishing the brass interior trim.

Norman Witte:
http://www.wittelaw.com/personal/#Imperial
 
Thanks Bob for doing the chase on Irv Bishko. I'm sure Hemitheus appreciatez it too. Irv's a good guy. I've been dealing with him since he waz living in an eastern burb of Cleveland 30 yearz ago but Matt iz a more then good friend and he'z even closer then Lima, Ohio for yeah Hemitheus. Anyway git the FSM az soon az you can and don't get airborn crossin' the tracks on Pelham north or south bound 'cuz theyz way hard on everything man or metal, Jer
This is hysterical because I live literally 1 mile from where the tracks cross Pelham Rd.
The "Check Gauges" light comes on when the oil pressure is low or when the fuel is low. I don't think it comes on for engine temp.

I think there is a separate oil pressure switch for the "Check Gauges" light, so your oil pressure gauge could be working properly but you could still be getting a light.

The most common reason (based on my anecdotal reading of the Imperial Club archives) is that the gas gauge isn't operating properly.

As for some of your other questions, Imperials had special striped tires, which could be one of your codes, electric antennas were options as well, so that's possible, even likely. Tilt/tele is also a common option, so you probably decoded that correctly as well.

There's lots of info out there on the turn signal cams. As Matt said, they're a pain. I think they're also a GM part, so they're currently reproduced, but do require some fiddling to get to work right in our cars. This info can be found at the Imperial club. There's also a Yahoo! Group for Imperials. Lots of good people there (mostly the same as the ones on the site).

There's a guy in Michigan who is restoring a '68 Lebaron. Lots of good info on his website about pulling the dash, rebuilding the engine, refinishing the brass interior trim.

Norman Witte:
http://www.wittelaw.com/personal/#Imperial


Great info. thank you. I appreciate the link. So happy that there are Imperial guys in the area. This may prove beneficial
 
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