1968 Plymouth furyIII wheel bearings

[stu’s68furyiiirat]

Ok guys I’m still new to this Plymouth fury III THING I REPLACEa wheel stud on right side and put back together and rolls smooth now going to drivers side replacing them tomorrow evening but I put it back together for the night afraid of rain so I tried to roll it feels like it’s catching on something really hard to turn any help would be great thinking it would be a wheel bearing issue

 

[gary68plyfury]

Wheel bearing sounds like a good place to start. Maybe grease any ball joints. If you replaced the wheel stud, does the head of it the same as the others?
Last year, when i was replacing front studs and a drum, I had a hell of time finding the correct parts. Until I broke out the micrometer and started measuring the stubs. I wound up have a different drum from the stock one. What a pain in the Donkey!
I also have a 68 Plymouth Fury III. Let me know if there's anything I can do to help you.

 

[3175375]

Wheel bearing sounds like a good place to start. Maybe grease any ball joints. If you replaced the wheel stud, does the head of it the same as the others?
Last year, when i was replacing front studs and a drum, I had a hell of time finding the correct parts. Until I broke out the micrometer and started measuring the stubs. I wound up have a different drum from the stock one. What a pain in the Donkey!
I also have a 68 Plymouth Fury III. Let me know if there's anything I can do to help you.

It’s also important to pack the wheel bearings well and properly torque them, followed by properly adjusting the brakes.

 

[stu’s68furyiiirat]

It’s also important to pack the wheel bearings well and properly torque them, followed by properly adjusting the brakes.

I ordered two new bearings today what does it torque to I had a bad bearing causing my problem

 

[1970FuryConv]

For 1971, I tightened the nut to 90 inch pounds, 3/8 inch torque wrench, 3/8 to ½ adapter, 1 1/16 inch long socket. After that, per the factory shop manual, I backed off 1/8 turn. Some say the brake rotor or drum should be spinning while you torque the nut. I've never worried about spinning torque. If you download the 1968 FSM from www.mymopar.com I think the procedure will be the same.

 

[3175375]

For 1971, I tightened the nut to 90 inch pounds, 3/8 inch torque wrench, 3/8 to ½ adapter, 1 1/16 inch long socket. After that, per the factory shop manual, I backed off 1/8 turn. Some say the brake rotor or drum should be spinning while you torque the nut. I've never worried about spinning torque. If you download the 1968 FSM from www.mymopar.com I think the procedure will be the same.

I spun the drum wilst torquing the nut.
I had to use a 3/4 to 1/2, 1/2 to 3/8 and 3/8 to 1/4 for the only giant socket that I had.
I also used this bearing packing tool that is great:

https://a.co/d/2O3jfiN

 

[gary68plyfury]

Good news.
but the link to bearing packing tool doesn't work, but ok.

 

[3175375]

Good news.
but the link to bearing packing tool doesn't work, but ok.

Try this:

ZOOYL Ltd. - KRAKEN

 

[Big_John]

I also spin the drum (or disc) while torqueing the bearing nut.

You can also pack the bearing by hand without the tool without much effort. Some prefer that method, but the important thing is to get the grease up between the rollers.

This guy makes some remark about "packing" part way through the video that doesn't make sense, but the method he shows is solid.

 

[3175375]

I also spin the drum (or disc) while torqueing the bearing nut.

You can also pack the bearing by hand without the tool without much effort. Some prefer that method, but the important thing is to get the grease up between the rollers.

This guy makes some remark about "packing" part way through the video that doesn't make sense, but the method he shows is solid.

I agree. Hand packing is good, just messy as can be.

 

[stu’s68furyiiirat]

I torque it right specs etc has a little wiggle left to right any suggestions

 

[3175375]

I torque it right specs etc has a little wiggle left to right any suggestions

It shouldn’t wiggle. Maybe the bearings are bad, or the races. Can you post pictures?

 

[stu’s68furyiiirat]

It shouldn’t wiggle. Maybe the bearings are bad, or the races. Can you post pictures?

Yes tommorow evening I can it wiggles side to side also feels like axle nut loose buts it’s torqued

 

[Big_John]

Yes tommorow evening I can it wiggles side to side also feels like axle nut loose buts it’s torqued

OK, there is more to "torqued" than meets the eye...

You are talking about 90 in/lb of torque. That's 7.5 ft/lbs which is a fairly small amount.

The nut/washer assembly has to seat the bearing. If there's even the slightest burr or nick in the threads on the spindle, the nut might not seat with that small amount of torque. It just won't overcome any imperfections in the thread.

Over the years, this bearing has probably been taken off and on a few times and sometimes not by the best mechanics. Just getting the cotter pin in or out can easily nick the threads, so this isn't uncommon.

So here's what you do... Grab a pair of channel lock type pliers and while spinning the wheel, see if you can turn that nut a little more. I'll bet you can. If it was all torqued correctly and seated, you won't get any movement, it just feels tight. Since it sounds like it's not seated... I'll bet it moves.

In fact, if you pull the hub off, that nut should go on easily without any catches. But often it doesn't due to the threads not being "perfect".

This is a critical part to the car that needs to be done correctly.

 

[stu’s68furyiiirat]

OK, there is more to "torqued" than meets the eye...

You are talking about 90 in/lb of torque. That's 7.5 ft/lbs which is a fairly small amount.

The nut/washer assembly has to seat the bearing. If there's even the slightest burr or nick in the threads on the spindle, the nut might not seat with that small amount of torque. It just won't overcome any imperfections in the thread.

Over the years, this bearing has probably been taken off and on a few times and sometimes not by the best mechanics. Just getting the cotter pin in or out can easily nick the threads, so this isn't uncommon.

So here's what you do... Grab a pair of channel lock type pliers and while spinning the wheel, see if you can turn that nut a little more. I'll bet you can. If it was all torqued correctly and seated, you won't get any movement, it just feels tight. Since it sounds like it's not seated... I'll bet it moves.

In fact, if you pull the hub off, that nut should go on easily without any catches. But often it doesn't due to the threads not being "perfect".

This is a critical part to the car that needs to be done correctly.

@Big_John I also see the seal near the spindle it’s not flush in the hole on spindle side I will try tonight when I get home to do it the way you said

 

[3175375]

The nut should spin freely on the spindle. If the threads are boogered up, then you need to clean them up before proceeding.

Pictures of the situation would allow us to help you close on this a hell of a lot quicker.

 

[stu’s68furyiiirat]

I fixed it it wasn’t seating thanks guys