- Joined
- Nov 14, 2010
- Messages
- 28,133
- Reaction score
- 27,267
Did you find a spot for your cocktail glasses?
1969 440 - Need to make a decision
- Thread starter Samplingman
- Start date
Build the engine you have. I agree with everyone else and esp Jer .. non numbers matching is like freedom
w/o looking it up I'd say the 69 440 is a better choice anyway esp if it only needs new rings and bearings and not a bore and new pistons.
69 440 compression - 10.1:1
70 440 compression - 9.7:1
The 69 cam was probably better in the 70 also from a performance standpoint as they started trying to get better perf from and emissions standpoint in 70. I don't know how complete a rebuild you are pursuing though.
The big compression drops was 71 though. Build what you have
w/o looking it up I'd say the 69 440 is a better choice anyway esp if it only needs new rings and bearings and not a bore and new pistons.
69 440 compression - 10.1:1
70 440 compression - 9.7:1
The 69 cam was probably better in the 70 also from a performance standpoint as they started trying to get better perf from and emissions standpoint in 70. I don't know how complete a rebuild you are pursuing though.
The big compression drops was 71 though. Build what you have
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
How do I tell if it has a steel crank? If I go for the rebuild it will probably be complete, I'd want to get the block checked out for any damage.
All the 69 engines had a steel crank.
Fratzog
Old Man with a Hat
Whatever you do please keep us posted. It would be interesting to follow.
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
I can assume then, that the 1970 engines did not?
I will have to pull this one apart, I may need some help figuring out if this is a good core or if it had been rebuilt in the past. The heads have two different casting dates, don't know if that means if it was updated at one point. The transmission was newer, from a '74, I think I have the better unit with that at least. Thanks all for the replies!
James
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Yep, you can all follow along, back at the build thread when the process starts.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2010
- Messages
- 28,133
- Reaction score
- 27,267
Forged cranks through '71 I think. You'll need to measure the cylinder bores with a bore gauge or inside micrometer to know if its standard bore but I'd just take it to a machine shop for an inspection. That needs to be done wether you decide to use it or sell but '69 is almost a good a choice as any, especially for what you're using it for. Earlier blocks have higher nickel content so if anything the earlier the better.
The 70's had steel cranks too. They did start using the heavy rods on the six pack engines, so there is an externally balanced version, but that is easily identifiable by the harmonic balancer.
Cast cranks started 72 or 3
for auto ... Late 74 or 75 for standard.
for auto ... Late 74 or 75 for standard.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
FWIW my Challenger 383 has a 8-23-69 casting date and the car's scheduled build date is Dec 19, the car is a L.A. built car so it was built about as far away from the Trenton Mi engine plant as it got. I don't have a date that the engine was built the only info on the pad is year letter, size, and water test.
I don't know that any of that helps you but it is the only matching car I have the rest are built from pieces from all over. I would build it to 375 horse specs using a Mopar performance resto cam for 383/440 magnum and make sure they use pistons with the highest compression height. A lot of replacement pistons are a one size fits all and you will get a piston way down and low compression like maybe 8:1.
I don't know that any of that helps you but it is the only matching car I have the rest are built from pieces from all over. I would build it to 375 horse specs using a Mopar performance resto cam for 383/440 magnum and make sure they use pistons with the highest compression height. A lot of replacement pistons are a one size fits all and you will get a piston way down and low compression like maybe 8:1.
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Ok, so don't I want lower compression for a driver that will need to run good on pump gas?
If there is a difference in the valve covers and if you are planning to replace the stock ones, I would be interested in them if they are free of dings and dents!
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Do NOT forget about hardened valve seats in the heads.
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
I may have to use them in trade, but if not I will keep you in mind.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
I am just listing some points of concern because it seems like you are heading stock rebuild and if you have the engine bored, off the shelf replacement cast pistons could make your combo go wrong, I don't think you need high end forged $700-800 pistons. Nothing wrong with a 8:1 motor I have one in a 73 challenger with a 292/ 509 cam sounds mean as hell and you can run 87 octane gas. Just make sure the shop that's doing work knows that you know and are concerned about your compression going in the toilet when you have at least 9:1 with original stock pistons. There is no such thing as too much knowledge.
Similar threads
- Locked
