1969 Chrysler 300 Edelbrock carb.

[Max Peroutka]

hello, i have a problem with my 750 edelbrock carb in my 69 300.

does anybody know, where i can get the right adapter bracket, where kickdown and so on is mounted, that fits?

thanks for answers

 

[detmatt]

Right from Edelbrock. Summit Racing, Jegs, Mancini’s etc..

 

[Max Peroutka]

that was my first thought too.......but i found nothing :/

 

[detmatt]

Edelbrock Throttle Lever Adapters for Performer Carburetors 1481

 

[Max Peroutka]

isn't that the same part that i've alreay installed?

 

[detmatt]

You didn’t state if those pics were yours or pics you grabbed to show what you need. If that’s your 1411 and you got the linkage kit you should have what you need. I’d also suggest a 1/2” phenolic spacer between the carb and intake.

 

[Max Peroutka]

the first 4 pics is my old carb and the last one is with the new one......so you suggest, that everything should work with kickdown and so on?

 

[Welder guy]

Here are some pictures of mine with cruise control. Yours should work but I suggest that you find the factory linkage pin ( I’m not sure of the correct name of it) that everything hooks on to instead of using a small bolt. It just doesn’t seem correct to me. The threads and the shortness of the bolt may cause binding with the linkage . I’m using the same style of carb and adapter as you and have had no problems with it. I hope this helps, good luck.

 

[330dTA]

This article might come in handy:

The LowDown On Stock Torqueflite Kick-Down Linkage

 

[CBODY67]

You've got the correct adapter bracket to make the Chevy linkage into Chrysler linkage. All you really need is the throttle stud to go with it. Plus the Lost Motion LInk for the cruise control, if you have that. Those throttle studs were common on all Chrysler V-8s up until (probably 1980s?) Might be good salvage yard items?

Chrysler typically set the kickdown adjustment to get early upshifts at part throttle, which can kill acceleration somewhat. From the factory adjustment, I found 2 turns additional preload on the threaded-rod linkage to work fine, which raises the upshift speed several mph. My general rule of thumb is for (with light throttle, enough to move the car and gradually accelerate) an adjustment that yields a 2-3 shift that drops the engine rpm back to about 1000rpm after the shift. For H78-14 w/2.76 gears, that's 28mph, with H78-15 3.23, it's 26mph. That has worked well for me on my Chryslers. On the '80, where they moved the adjustment to "under-car", I put a small black wire tie through the slot at the bottom back of the slot. Instant "more preload".

I test drove a mid-80s D-150 we traded for in the late '80s. 318 4bbl with 3.21 axle ratio. It had the early upshift syndrome, so it felt doggy, no matter what. Manually shifting it helped a bunch, even in normal acceleration.

CBODY67

 

[CBODY67]

When I mention "minimum throttle to move the car", that also means just a "hair" enough that it will move the car AND the min-throttle upshifts will take place. Once with the kickdown linkage adjusted to get the 2-3 upshift at the mph I mentioned, if you accelerate with normal throttle, the upshifts will also be a little higher, too, which is where you notice the car feeling "peppier" and more energetic with just that small change. A more enjoyable car to drive AND keep up with quick-moving city traffic.

Getting the slightly-higher upshift speeds, after the shifts occur, the torque converter will be "more solid" and engine rpm will be more related to road speed. When the upshifts occur too soon, after that 2-3 shift, any acceleration is "on the converter", with more throttle, and a more-labored feel to things. That's the way out '72 Newport Royal 400 2bbl was as it upshifted 2-3 at 25mph. I'd already done the "more preload" adjustment on the '66 Newport 383 2bbl, so I knew the difference it might make. Plus, on the TFs with part-throttle kickdown, that will happen a bit earlier too, making the car feel more energetic, too.

Also, on the '66, whenever I'd need to do a "merge" situation, I'd put the trans in "2" and manually upshift at approx. 55mph with less throttle than if I'd been using it in "D". Chrysler's orientation seemed to be that if acceleration was really needed, you'd be at WOT or you'd be relying upon engine torque to do it, as if it was a manual trans in top gear. So, to me, better to use less throttle and get more acceleration with it. It worked well for me.

This orientation might have been fine in the "slower" earlier '60s and in smaller towns where traffic might more slower anyway. But in a larger metro area where the traffic moved much quicker away from a red light turned green, you got left in the dust and needed close to full throttle just to keep up.

As emissions standards were later measured in "grams/mile" rather than "parts per million", having a slower-turning engine could have been a way to help meet the standards, but it certainly did NOT help the way the cars felt to drive!

CBODY67