65 Fury disc brake conversion advice

ive heard, and also believe, that its not worth the hassle. u can swap the whole tamale, or swap the innards etc and end up with discs. both ways are valid and documented.

but IMO its not worth it, and will not be as huge a difference as when going front drum to disc.

thats where the stoppy happens.

try not to die -

- saylor
I've been researching this mess for DAYS and have come to the conclusion it's time to stop researching and start building. I'm leaving my stock rearend in the car and staying with rear drums. If I don't like the feel then I'll try something else. Lol
 
Though I have no real experience with 4 wheel disc brake conversions or their attendent results, from a gut perspective I would tend to agree with Saylor. Build it with front discs and keep your rear drums for now. The extra advantage created by having rear discs as well is minimal compared to the HUGE advantage over 4 wheel drums gained by simply upgrading to front discs and keeping the rear drums.

Best single safety upgrade I have ever done to my cars and the difference is remarkable. I live in an area near Toronto Ontario where the main highway #410 is considered the busiest highway in North America, or at least it used to have that dubious distinction. Good brakes are an absolute life saver.
 
+1 best upgrade ever done to the car going from front drum to front disc brakes.

went from unsafe to safe in city driving.

new cars today stop way faster than the old cars, we need every spec of help we can get.

my advice - take that rear disc-brake money and buy the best front kit you can and leave the back alone. i mean - totally rebuild the rears - but leave them drum.

lot of ppl went scarebird. i went ECI. if i did it again id step up and even go poomlim or something. no skimp on brakes.

try not to die -

- saylor
 
I took the "easy" way out and ordered the complete conversion kit from Stainless Steel Brake Co. I'll let you know how it goes.
Hopefully better than the Saginaw power steering pump conversion (from TRW) which requires you to cut the engine mount (they neglect to tell you that part) or the change to a mini starter which requires you to lengthen the battery cable (also not disclosed in the details).
So far, NOTHING "made for this car/engine" fits this Sport Fury without causing 3 other issues!
Mopar
 
I took the "easy" way out and ordered the complete conversion kit from Stainless Steel Brake Co. I'll let you know how it goes.
Hopefully better than the Saginaw power steering pump conversion (from TRW) which requires you to cut the engine mount (they neglect to tell you that part) or the change to a mini starter which requires you to lengthen the battery cable (also not disclosed in the details).
So far, NOTHING "made for this car/engine" fits this Sport Fury without causing 3 other issues!
Mopar
Hope it works out for you. I do not understand why you had these problems converting the steering pump from the TRW to the Saginaw. All I had to do on mine was mount the pump and brackets, and change the hoses. Nothing about the starter or battery cable.
 
I put a rear disc conversion on my 68 T/C wagon a number of years ago. Bought the kit MANY years ago and had all the parts just taking up space in the garage so figured why not.....well wish I had never bothered. The braking is no better then the stock 11x2.5 drums I put on the car, and the E-brake system is VERY problematic to set-up. I find the braking is uneven on the rotor surface....tried all kinds of things to even out the pad contact, but to no avail. I was planning on swapping the old drums back on last year, but the whole selling the house and moving took priority. Maybe I will get time to do it this year. ;)
 
I took the "easy" way out and ordered the complete conversion kit from Stainless Steel Brake Co. I'll let you know how it goes.
Hopefully better than the Saginaw power steering pump conversion (from TRW) which requires you to cut the engine mount (they neglect to tell you that part) or the change to a mini starter which requires you to lengthen the battery cable (also not disclosed in the details).
So far, NOTHING "made for this car/engine" fits this Sport Fury without causing 3 other issues!
Mopar
It's the PITA '65 C body curse. The bastard step child of convienient parts availability. Hope your upgrade is seemless!
 
Hope it works out for you. I do not understand why you had these problems converting the steering pump from the TRW to the Saginaw. All I had to do on mine was mount the pump and brackets, and change the hoses. Nothing about the starter or battery cable.
The starter and battery cable were for header installation.
The Saginaw power steering pump required new bracket, pully, hoses and fittings. However, the Saginaw pump has the high pressure line connecting at the back bottom of the pump which was less than 1/2" from the engine mount bracket - not enough room for the fitting and/or the aluminum hose section. We had to remove the engine mount and bracket and cut the bracket for the hose to connect to the pump.
I do NOT recommend the change to anyone. Just find a good shop which can totally rebuild and re-seal the TRW pump (couldn't get mine to stop leaking). It will be cheaper than the $1200 conversion parts (not including my labor plus my mechanic) and you won't have to cut a structural support piece.
 
It's the PITA '65 C body curse. The bastard step child of convienient parts availability. Hope your upgrade is seemless!
From your lips to God's ears! So far NOTHING made to fit this car has actually been bolt-on without having to change or modify something else.
I guess I got spoiled on my '65 Stingray where every single part on the car is available from multiple sources and fits perfectly. I'll think twice about adding more Mopars to the collection in the future. Of course, I almost bought a Studebaker Hawk GT last week and am still thinking about it - so I may be jumping from the frying pan and into the fire. The only reason I held off on the purchase is that I can't get this damned Fury completed!
 
From your lips to God's ears! So far NOTHING made to fit this car has actually been bolt-on without having to change or modify something else.
I guess I got spoiled on my '65 Stingray where every single part on the car is available from multiple sources and fits perfectly. I'll think twice about adding more Mopars to the collection in the future. Of course, I almost bought a Studebaker Hawk GT last week and am still thinking about it - so I may be jumping from the frying pan and into the fire. The only reason I held off on the purchase is that I can't get this damned Fury completed!
Don't second guess another Mopar! Maybe an A,B or E body. Parts are easier to come by and you won't have the hassle of scrounging for parts.
 
Well, 5 weeks and $1500 later still no brakes.
When I ordered I was told I would have them in 3-4 weeks.
3 weeks later I was told they would SHIP in another 1-2 weeks.
3 weeks later again and nothing...
I'll let you know if I finally get brakes and if they actually bolt on without modifications and how they work. Or I'll let you know how well my cc company handles disputes.
Car show season is already starting here in the South, and I was hoping to have this one done by now.
 
So I'm going to do my manual drum to manual front disc swap soon.
I want the smallest piston that will push enough volume, so from looking around that seems to be 1".
There are a few choices, but most don't either specify manual disc, the ones that say 1" bore size say for power brake apps.
Does anyone know what MC to use, that will have a 1" bore?
I'm trying not to die, thanks.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chrysler,1969,newport,6.3l+383cid+v8,1066182,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836
 
I'm sure one of these MCs will do, what makes a MC power or manual though?
If the bore is equal, what else changes?
 
I'm sure one of these MCs will do, what makes a MC power or manual though?
If the bore is equal, what else changes?
Stroke, maybe??? IDK, this stuff all really needs serious investigation if you're doing it. Old visual reference catalogs would have dimensions, but may not be complete enough to figure this out. A lot will come down to what bolts to what and has required clearance too.

I know the engineers would math everything and then prove something new on the test track. The best guys like us can do is research before investing and don't be afraid to decide it isn't ready yet if ANYTHING doesn't seem right. Don't let the pedal go too low or apply too high, be very critical of true stopping ability and if you can induce lockup (a good thing when possible, but not easily done).

Did you make Zephyr Hills? I screwed my back up, or more accurately pissed off my previously screwed up back... I haven't been doing much the last several days.
 
UPDATE: 6 weeks and NOTHING from Stainless Steel Brakes. Not even a response to my inquiry a few days ago.
When I ordered they said 3-4 weeks to RECEIVE.
At my 3.5 week inquiry they said another 1-2 weeks.
Now at 6 weeks - crickets.
Starting to think I've been had. Is this a real company or a guy in his garage who scours wrecking yards on the weekends?
 
Sorry to hear that, hope you get better soon.
Thank you... I'll be ok, it's all part of my "new normal" since the first accident in 08. I can do better on bad days with one of those cheap girdle braces... but now my gut can't take that so...
 
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