65 Fury disc brake conversion advice

Thank you... I'll be ok, it's all part of my "new normal" since the first accident in 08. I can do better on bad days with one of those cheap girdle braces... but now my gut can't take that so...

Very sorry to hear that, Jeff. Please just take it easy.
 
So I'm going to do my manual drum to manual front disc swap soon.
I want the smallest piston that will push enough volume, so from looking around that seems to be 1".
There are a few choices, but most don't either specify manual disc, the ones that say 1" bore size say for power brake apps.
Does anyone know what MC to use, that will have a 1" bore?
I'm trying not to die, thanks.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chrysler,1969,newport,6.3l+383cid+v8,1066182,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836

The only master I see that would be suitable in my opinion is the Cardone 101572M which says front disc rear drum MANUAL brakes. All the other I believe are for power brakes.

The weight and handling characteristics of your car are quite similar to the car for which that master was originally specified, so I would think it would be an excellent choice. I would expect the bore and pedal stroke to be what's needed too. Personally I wouldn't mess much around much further in second guessing past that point...

It has the 4 bolt mount so it will be OK that way. Being a manual system with no booster there should be no column shift linkage clearance issues either.
 
UPDATE: 6 weeks and NOTHING from Stainless Steel Brakes. Not even a response to my inquiry a few days ago.
When I ordered they said 3-4 weeks to RECEIVE.
At my 3.5 week inquiry they said another 1-2 weeks.
Now at 6 weeks - crickets.
Starting to think I've been had. Is this a real company or a guy in his garage who scours wrecking yards on the weekends?

They are real and a fairly large operation. Located just outside Buffalo NY and I have drove by the place many times.

If I was you I would just tell them thanks for trying and please refund my credit card. Any arguments, just call Visa or whoever and have them charged back.

Even if you have to spend the same amount on a set of 73 spindles and all the relevant parts, (you won't) you will at least have brakes guaranteed to work.

Not sure what kit you bought but most of them are a mishmash of GM parts that never seem to work well together.

Kevin
 
I did a 4 whl disc swap for a customer of mine on his 67 Fairlane, he got a SSBC kit, but I don't know how long it took to get it. All the parts were with the car when he brought it in. Next time he comes in I will ask him.
 
UPDATE: 6 weeks and NOTHING from Stainless Steel Brakes. Not even a response to my inquiry a few days ago.
When I ordered they said 3-4 weeks to RECEIVE.
At my 3.5 week inquiry they said another 1-2 weeks.
Now at 6 weeks - crickets.
Starting to think I've been had. Is this a real company or a guy in his garage who scours wrecking yards on the weekends?


I was looking to order through them also. I might reconsider after reading about your issues....
 
Did you make Zephyr Hills? I screwed my back up, or more accurately pissed off my previously screwed up back... I haven't been doing much the last several days.
Hey Jeff!
No I've been busy with other things, we didn't make it.
Sorry to hear about your back, I have back issues as well. Sometimes, being horizontal is the best thing to do.
 
If your car is floor shifted then you can use any C body disc booster from 65 and up. The 65-68 boosters are hard to find but the later model ones are still fairly common.

If your car is column shifted then you pretty much need to find a 65-68 disc booster as the later model single diaphragm disc boosters are too wide and interfere with the column shift linkage.
 
Hi all, I'm looking to do this conversion on my 68 Custom Suburban and rather than create a new thread, I thought I'd tag along.
My motivation is that I'd much rather use compatible and available Moparts over kits that use hub adapters and rotors/pads/calipers that maybe difficult or expensive to source down the line.
So, I'm on the search for a pair of spindles and this will determine which rotors I can use. The 69-72 rotors are now out of stock at Rock Auto. I have noted the article by SF-66TC detailing use of the alternative F@rd rotors. I think I'd prefer 73 spindles if I can find them though.
I'll use the 1 1/32" master cylinder as advised. (Raybestos #MC36307).
With regards to the booster, does anyone have a part number? I need the small diameter bendix dual diaphragm as I have column shift. I think this is the 8" booster. Rock Auto do not show sizes or disc/drum specs on most of their info. The only one I can find that may suit is this one: More Information for A-1 CARDONE 5473546
Although there are generic bendix style boosters around, I'm not sure which one will work and most sellers list them as A,B,E body only.
I'd like to put a factory style one piece combination valve under the m/c or on the frame. I can only find after market valves. Anyone know which one will work? I can find the two piece valve but that looks like hell to plumb. Thanks a lot.
 
Hi all, I'm looking to do this conversion on my 68 Custom Suburban and rather than create a new thread, I thought I'd tag along.
My motivation is that I'd much rather use compatible and available Moparts over kits that use hub adapters and rotors/pads/calipers that maybe difficult or expensive to source down the line.
So, I'm on the search for a pair of spindles and this will determine which rotors I can use. The 69-72 rotors are now out of stock at Rock Auto. I have noted the article by SF-66TC detailing use of the alternative F@rd rotors. I think I'd prefer 73 spindles if I can find them though.
I'll use the 1 1/32" master cylinder as advised. (Raybestos #MC36307).
With regards to the booster, does anyone have a part number? I need the small diameter bendix dual diaphragm as I have column shift. I think this is the 8" booster. Rock Auto do not show sizes or disc/drum specs on most of their info. The only one I can find that may suit is this one: More Information for A-1 CARDONE 5473546
Although there are generic bendix style boosters around, I'm not sure which one will work and most sellers list them as A,B,E body only.
I'd like to put a factory style one piece combination valve under the m/c or on the frame. I can only find after market valves. Anyone know which one will work? I can find the two piece valve but that looks like hell to plumb. Thanks a lot.
I just checked, Autozone has the # 5300 rotors in stock for use with the early 1972 spindles. The price is $85.99 ea.
 
Thanks for replies.
Looks like Cardone 5473604 is pretty much out of stock and I've cross checked to bendix R2518112 and raybestos RPB650268, both unavailable. Any alternative on the booster?
I saw the two piece prop/metering valve but any idea if the 70-73 one piece is produced? MBM lists part PV2 as mopar compatible but I'm not sure if it would suit a C body or if combi valves are model specific.
Thanks
 
Stainless Steel Brakes told me, the first time I checked and they responded, that they were building my brakes.
3 weeks later, I've finally learned they can't find a producer for the boosters. They are trying to convince me that non-power disc brakes are awesome and soooo much better than my non-power drum Brakes. I told them I'd give them a couple more weeks to see if they can resolve it.

Shoulda gone with Wilwood.
 
I ordered a 54-73604 booster from o'reilly online and just got the confirmation that it has shipped in case anyone is still looking.
 
Here's a quick update on what I have bought to achieve a front disc conversion on my '68 Custom Suburban.
After reading around the subject, I decided that I did not want an aftermarket conversion package that would utilise the drum spindles, hubs and a plate steel caliper bracket.
I wanted to go the whole hog with factory disc spindles, caliper brackets, calipers, big bearings with the late model 11.75" rotors, dual 8" booster, dual master cylinder and the combination distribution/metering valve.
I priced up all these parts including used spindles from three different salvage yards. Remember I'm in the UK so the shipping soon mounts up when buying form several suppliers. It came to a lot of $$$. About $1800 in fact.
Then I found The Ram Man Inc on ebay which led to their website. Wayne puts plenty of video instruction on his website explaining the pros and cons of aftermarket kits versus factory parts and how to combine factory parts for best use.
I have gone with the whole package from Ram Man Inc and I am currently awaiting delivery. The overall cost was comparable and I know that all parts supplied will be compatible and proven.
The list of parts includes factory disc spindles, factory big rotor caliper brackets, factory pin calipers, combination valve, master cylinder, 8" dual booster, flex lines, 11.75" rotors, pads, bearings, seals, spindle nuts etc, dust caps.
The booster, valve and master cylinder are made to Ram Man specs.
I'll update again once it's all fitted and tested.
 
Ross, this is my first time reading this thread.

GREAT JOB!!!!
 
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