'65 Fury III - How to reattach steel channel to glass, and how to mount door locks?

[barsteel]

Hello!

I've attached 2 pics from my '65 Fury III. I bought the car as a 95% finished project. I'm working on putting the interior back in, and part of that project is making sure that everything in the doors, i.e. glass, locks, etc, works.

1st issue:
I pulled the pass side door glass to replace the channel lining in the channel that holds the rear of the glass (towards the back of the car), and noticed that the top half of the steel channel trim that was on the front edge of the glass had come loose. The glass now "rocks" in the door because of the loose trim, so I have to reattach it.

How do I do it? I was going to use contact cement, which seems to hold everything, but I'd like to check if there's another secret out there of which I'm not aware.

2nd issue:
I got the car with the proverbial "box 'o parts", misc unidentified fasteners, metal pieces, etc, but was lucky enough to find the lock tumblers for both doors. Unfortunately, the keys that came with the car, the ones that work in the ignition and the trunk, DO NOT work in those lock tumblers. I've cleaned them up, lubed them, and tried to wiggle the key in the lock to get it to move, but no dice.

Could the tumblers/internals be stuck from lack of use? If so, what's the best way to get them free?

How are the tumblers mounted into the doors? Is there a sliding clip like Chevy uses, or something more elaborate? I don't even know what to look for...

Thanks...

Chris

 

[Polara_500]

From the factory the channels were put on the glass with a rubber/fiber tape. It's near impossible to find the right size of that anymore and get it to adhere properly so most installers I've talked to install the channels with a silicone type adhesive, that's what I had to have done on mine.
The door locks were indeed held in with a slide on clip. If you're having issues with the locks I'd just take them to a locksmith with the key and have them fix you up, if they have to rekey them it's easy with them in their hands and not spendy either.
Mike

 

[Yatzee]

Hello!

I've attached 2 pics from my '65 Fury III. I bought the car as a 95% finished project. I'm working on putting the interior back in, and part of that project is making sure that everything in the doors, i.e. glass, locks, etc, works.

1st issue:
I pulled the pass side door glass to replace the channel lining in the channel that holds the rear of the glass (towards the back of the car), and noticed that the top half of the steel channel trim that was on the front edge of the glass had come loose. The glass now "rocks" in the door because of the loose trim, so I have to reattach it.

How do I do it? I was going to use contact cement, which seems to hold everything, but I'd like to check if there's another secret out there of which I'm not aware.

2nd issue:
I got the car with the proverbial "box 'o parts", misc unidentified fasteners, metal pieces, etc, but was lucky enough to find the lock tumblers for both doors. Unfortunately, the keys that came with the car, the ones that work in the ignition and the trunk, DO NOT work in those lock tumblers. I've cleaned them up, lubed them, and tried to wiggle the key in the lock to get it to move, but no dice.

Could the tumblers/internals be stuck from lack of use? If so, what's the best way to get them free?

How are the tumblers mounted into the doors? Is there a sliding clip like Chevy uses, or something more elaborate? I don't even know what to look for...

Thanks...

Chris

 

[Yatzee]

My 65 had the same issue with the channel so I bought a small tube of The Right Stuff silicon seal and reattached it. This seal is more like rubberized silicon and holds very well. I had thought of 2 part epoxy but that's a bit too permanent should the glass need future servicing. Don't mess with the tumblers - just by new matched ones with the keys then you'll be back to OE door locks with the proper keying. You may find that the ignition and trunk use the same key so buy wisely to make sure the shape of the key matches it's intended use. A locksmith may be able to resolve the issue but the cost and state of the lock barrels are hardly worth it especially if there's 50 years of wear.

 

[barsteel]

My 65 had the same issue with the channel so I bought a small tube of The Right Stuff silicon seal and reattached it. This seal is more like rubberized silicon and holds very well. I had thought of 2 part epoxy but that's a bit too permanent should the glass need future servicing. Don't mess with the tumblers - just by new matched ones with the keys then you'll be back to OE door locks with the proper keying. You may find that the ignition and trunk use the same key so buy wisely to make sure the shape of the key matches it's intended use. A locksmith may be able to resolve the issue but the cost and state of the lock barrels are hardly worth it especially if there's 50 years of wear.

Yatzee -

Sounds like a good choice, but I have not been able to find anyone online who offers a set of two door locks AND an ignition tumbler for a C body. A/B bodies? No problem. Cs? Not so much. Any advice on a vendor who offers what I need?

Chris

 

[Big_John]

Ignition key and door keys (rectangular head) match. Trunk Key (round head) is different.

Take your locks and your ignition key to a locksmith. Everything will match and it will cost less than buying new locks and keys.

 

[65sporty]

Window urethane works well to hold the track to the glass, use a locksmith, I have a local guy I use and has never done me wrong.

 

[Yatzee]

Hello!

I've attached 2 pics from my '65 Fury III. I bought the car as a 95% finished project. I'm working on putting the interior back in, and part of that project is making sure that everything in the doors, i.e. glass, locks, etc, works.

1st issue:
I pulled the pass side door glass to replace the channel lining in the channel that holds the rear of the glass (towards the back of the car), and noticed that the top half of the steel channel trim that was on the front edge of the glass had come loose. The glass now "rocks" in the door because of the loose trim, so I have to reattach it.

How do I do it? I was going to use contact cement, which seems to hold everything, but I'd like to check if there's another secret out there of which I'm not aware.

2nd issue:
I got the car with the proverbial "box 'o parts", misc unidentified fasteners, metal pieces, etc, but was lucky enough to find the lock tumblers for both doors. Unfortunately, the keys that came with the car, the ones that work in the ignition and the trunk, DO NOT work in those lock tumblers. I've cleaned them up, lubed them, and tried to wiggle the key in the lock to get it to move, but no dice.

Could the tumblers/internals be stuck from lack of use? If so, what's the best way to get them free?

How are the tumblers mounted into the doors? Is there a sliding clip like Chevy uses, or something more elaborate? I don't even know what to look for...

Thanks...

Chris

 

[Yatzee]

Go here for door lock/ignition lock sets. There is really no difference over a number of years for these sets even up to 1974.

Mopar Interior Trim | Restoration Parts | Jim's Auto Parts

 

[rumpfox]

go to napa and tell them your window problem and they'll sell you some window seal in a caulking tube that puts the tracks on the new cars that is good stuff. will not come loose. those cheap door locks aren't worth the money. a locksmith are a little high but you ll be very happy with the results instead some junk you bought on line

 

[barsteel]

The locksmith charged me $50 to rekey both locks, a price that I was happy with. He said that they were both pretty worn, so he removed all but 2 pins from the lock so the key would still work while eliminating several of the pins that would have made the key hard to insert. Fine by me.

I found the tumbler retaining clips, purchased a set of door and lock gaskets on line, and found that the lock rods for the tumblers were still hanging on the mechanism in the door, so I'm (hopefully) all set with the locks.

As for the window, I cleaned the glass and channel, blew it out with air, and used black silicone caulk. I held both tracks on the window with ratchet straps. Did that today. We'll see how it turns out tomorrow, but a number of people advised me that silicone would work well.

Chris