68 Fury 3 questions

[68furyIII]

I'm hoping that the coolant is just leftover from the time the thermostat blew a few years ago and sprayed coolant everywhere. Probably not a good sign it happened though.

Did some asking over at bobistheoilguy as well and the general consensus is I should use a high zddp oil due to the motor having a flat tappet cam. I should also change the timing chain as it was probably never done and the original ones were "nylon over metal". Aside from those things they said the stalling at low speed issue could be a float, but having never worked on old cars I'm not too familiar with this. Some also recommended changing the oil and fuel pumps. Figured I would share that here.

Taking to my autobody/mechanic friend today and going to have him give it a once over when he has time.

 

[65sporty]

Sharp car, that coolant leak looks like intake or timing cover gasket, but if your changing the timing chain and gears you will be changing the gasket anyways, if the coolant is really bad watch out for timing cover bolts stuck in the cover easy to break off. yes use oil high in zddp or use a additive with zddp. good luck

 

[68furyIII]

Just took the fury out for a drive to my family friend's body shop. Made the hour drive there, parked and the hose coming out of the thermostat blew spraying fluid/water everywhere. He promptly laughed at me lol. He's going to give the engine a once over with one of his mechanic friends over the next day or two and I will share what they have to say. I told him about the timing chain and that I wanted to get that replaced and the other issues posted here.

I appreciate all the help. This project means a lot to me.

 

[commando1]

My hose would have blown mid way there. LOL. You're already off to a good start.

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[bajajoaquin]

Yeah, mine, too. I cringed when I read it was an hour drive. But it got there, and hopefully with no ill effects.

Nice looking car. Commando's advice isn't any fun, but he's right. You will have to change all that stuff anyway. Might as well choose to do it at a place and time convenient to you rather than on the side of the road at the worst possible moment.

 

[68furyIII]

Exactly I just wanted to get it to his shop and now we can take it from there. But at least now its at a shop not on the side of the road.

 

[65sporty]

The bypass hose is available in silicone, I read about it in another thread. It would make a great upgrade and you would never have to change it again

 

[greasemonkeyman]

I don't think I'd have taken the chance of driving that thing for an hour not knowing where the leak is coming from.As we all know,the temperature gauges aren't the most accurate in these things and sometimes they don't even work period.Driving it that kind of distance could have destroyed the head gasket from overheating the engine,even if it weren't a problem before.I'm guessing the trip was somewhere between 30-50 miles,not really a good idea to stress any engine that's running hot! Just looking for more problems.Now that the damage is done,let the breakdown begin!

 

[68furyIII]

Yeah we'll have to see what the damage is now.

From reading everything that I've posted, if I said I had about $1,000 to put into mechanical repairs as of now how far do you think that would get me. Giving there could be a few different situations I know its tough to say exactly. Definitely looking into the timing chain and cooling issues to start.

 

[commando1]

One item could eat up that whole grand or a thousand little items will eat it up.
As you go through it, you'll have to prioritize until you're broke or refinance the house.
I allowed my self $1,000.00 after buying my Newport to do "only what needed to be done".
The HVAC came to $900.00 alone.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

View attachment 33115

This looks to be a timing cover leak. If you are lucky it is only a gasket, these covers are known to corrode in this area.


Alan

 

[kmccabe56]

This is my new car checklist every time.
Buy a Factory Service Manual.
Oil, filter, and grease job. Don't forget the U-joints.
Flush system coolant and then new thermostat, heater and radiator hoses
Air filter and PCV valve and fuel filter.
All belts.
Pull drums and inspect brakes and brake fluid.
Check tranny fluid.
Tires of course including spare and jack.
Check steering, braking, handling, and ride.. New shocks are very likely.
Examine exhaust.
Check all electrical components: head lights, brake lights, parking lights, directionals, rear plate lamp, side marker lights, interior lights, instrument panel lights, switchs , and gauges,

That's before you put it into weekend duty. Deal with everything else individually as they pop up once on the road.

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I'll resist the urge to call you Captain Obvious on this one Stan. Maybe your post should become a sticky at the top of the website for all "new" car owners?

 

[kmccabe56]

One item could eat up that whole grand or a thousand little items will eat it up.
As you go through it, you'll have to prioritize until you're broke or refinance the house.
I allowed my self $1,000.00 after buying my Newport to do "only what needed to be done".
The HVAC came to $900.00 alone.

What'd you expect when you start with the most expensive thing to repair, outside of the engine? LOL!

 

[flj]

Hi:

Nice car.
It looks like you have a disc brake master cylinder which would mean Budd brakes. They are great brakes BUT get ready to spend some money if you need to do anything with the front brakes or the front end.
These cars a re a labor of love and the more of that labor that you can do yourself the better it will be.

Good luck.

 

[commando1]

I'll resist the urge to call you Captain Obvious on this one Stan. Maybe your post should become a sticky at the top of the website for all "new" car owners?

If anything I say that should be a sticky, it should be "It's spelled Fury III"

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[commando1]

One item could eat up that whole grand or a thousand little items will eat it up.
As you go through it, you'll have to prioritize until you're broke or refinance the house.
I allowed my self $1,000.00 after buying my Newport to do "only what needed to be done".
The HVAC came to $900.00 alone.

What'd you expect when you start with the most expensive thing to repair, outside of the engine? LOL!

In Stanley World, having A/C and not working is akin to having four tires on your car but they are all flat...

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[67Monaco]

Hi:

Nice car.
It looks like you have a disc brake master cylinder which would mean Budd brakes. They are great brakes BUT get ready to spend some money if you need to do anything with the front brakes or the front end.
These cars a re a labor of love and the more of that labor that you can do yourself the better it will be.

Good luck.

Not a BUDD master, he's on drums all the way around on that one.


BUDD master;

 

[bajajoaquin]

Yeah we'll have to see what the damage is now.

From reading everything that I've posted, if I said I had about $1,000 to put into mechanical repairs as of now how far do you think that would get me. Giving there could be a few different situations I know its tough to say exactly. Definitely looking into the timing chain and cooling issues to start.

Good idea setting yourself a budget. I mean, there's no chance in hell you'll keep it, but it will help you prioritize things when decisions come along. If you're trying to keep in budget, you'll choose the $130 muffler shop replacement rather than the $700 TTI dual exhaust (ask me how I know).

 

[68furyIII]

Thank you. The project is somewhat of a joint project so that helps my budget a little bit, but being as this obviously is not a daily driver and has sat for 15-20 years, any progress so matter how slow is better than its been.

 

[kmccabe56]

View attachment 33113View attachment 33114View attachment 33115View attachment 33116View attachment 33117

Wow. Lets start with the obvious. The heater bypass hose looks like it's going to cough its cookies at any moment. The upper rad hose may be the right general shape, but it's way way too long and that kink in it is probably contributing to your overheating immensely. Undo the rad end of the hose and let the hose sort itself out. You'll see immediately how much of the disconnected end you need to cut off.