68 Fury III front disc, rotor replacements?

[Progrocker74]

This is a strange one. Bought the car with the conversion already done. It has Centric dual/quad piston calipers, and uses the fabled and impossible to find D10 brake pads.
I am going to need rotors soon, and was wondering where I can get them.
Just like the pads, the rotors do not show up at any parts store. I had also heard that they may have come off of a 68 Imperial..

Already found and purchased two sets of D10 pads at great personal cost. At least I have a spare set now.
Going to eventually replace the calipers as well as i think their usefulness is about at an end.

Anyway, any advice would as always be most appreciated.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

If they were of a Imperial they would have 5 on 5 bolt pattern. Good luck finding new ones.

 

[Progrocker74]

If they were of a Imperial they would have 5 on 5 bolt pattern. Good luck finding new ones.

Not sure..

 

[67-Fury]

You can use 80s Supra Rotors, There is a Tech article somewhere on it. It will take some machine work but it can be done.

 

[Progrocker74]

Front brakes are done. I can stop!!! Yay!!!
Next week I'll be replacing the rear drum shoes. Fun stuff.

 

[detmatt]

You were able to turn the rotors? We're your calipers leaking?

 

[twostick]

Contact the Imperial Club.

They had the rotors repopped. The Imperials have 5x5 bolt circle but the rotor is separate from the hub and will fit both 5x5 and 5x4.5 hubs.

Might be a good time to consider just swapping to a 69-73 C-body system.

Kevin

 

[Progrocker74]

You were able to turn the rotors? We're your calipers leaking?

Turning the rotors was unnecessary as they were in great shape. Car stops fine, straight and doesn't pull to either side. Calipers are fairly new, pistons all were free and work as intended. I shot some lubricant into them just for good measure. So far so good.

 

[Progrocker74]

Contact the Imperial Club.

They had the rotors repopped. The Imperials have 5x5 bolt circle but the rotor is separate from the hub and will fit both 5x5 and 5x4.5 hubs.

Might be a good time to consider just swapping to a 69-73 C-body system.

Kevin

Good to know, might be a good idea to change them out eventually. Thanx for the info!!!

 

[twostick]

are the disc pads the same as 66 ?

And what exactly is wrong with the repopped ones?

Kevin

 

[detmatt]

are the disc pads the same as 66 ?

I don't have an answer for you but I do know that Craig doesn't get on a computer much so you should just call him.

 

[detmatt]

And what exactly is wrong with the repopped ones?

Kevin

Generally, today's steel is nowhere near as good quality as it was back in the day. There are exceptions I'm sure but I would be surprised if the repopped ones lasted as long as the NOS, which is what Craig has.

 

[livininharrow]

I don't have an answer for you but I do know that Craig doesn't get on a computer much so you should just call him.

thank you michigan matt i will call him.

 

[hemi71x]

http://durabrake.com/contact-us.asp

Too late now, as i just saw your post.
But for future reference, contact the company in the above link.
They supposidly are the company that manufactures them, has them.

 

[cantflip]

Turning the rotors was unnecessary as they were in great shape. Car stops fine, straight and doesn't pull to either side. Calipers are fairly new, pistons all were free and work as intended. I shot some lubricant into them just for good measure. So far so good.

I don't mean to nit-pick... but this Horrifies me. What lubricant and where? There are brake hydraulic system lubricants out there, but it took a month to get the one a Chrysler TSB called for back in the 90's from NAPA. Any petroleum or mineral oil based product will cause damage to the seals in a brake system... essentially requiring the entire system to have every seal replaced... don't even spray penetrating oil on stuck bleeders as you can cause trouble that way.

 

[commando1]

don't even spray penetrating oil on stuck bleeders as you can cause trouble that way.

Give me an alternative.

 

[65sporty]

I have always sprayed the bleeders with penetrating oil, helps to loosen them when removing them, the only time I open them is when I bleed the system and the fluid coming out will wash out any oil on the threads

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Propane plumbers torch heats the bleeder red hot turns right out.

 

[commando1]

Propane plumbers torch heats the bleeder red hot turns right out.

You think so? The next time my bleeders give me any crap, I'll fly you down here just so I can watch you try without mangling it.

 

[cantflip]

Give me an alternative.

Sorry I missed this... brake fluid and water are the only safe to use items you have lying around. Not very effective, but can work to clean away enough crap(brake fluid) to get a bleeder to open. Remember to give a slight tighten to break the thread loose before removing, no more than an 1/8 turn.

I have always sprayed the bleeders with penetrating oil, helps to loosen them when removing them, the only time I open them is when I bleed the system and the fluid coming out will wash out any oil on the threads

For the really stubborn stuff... oh well... be extra careful that you clean everything thoroughly before bleeding, also don't spray onto anything rubber. As soon as it breaks loose, you will need to wash away all oil and all solvent... final rinse with brake fluid and at end of the job water to clean away the brake fluid.

Propane plumbers torch heats the bleeder red hot turns right out.

Torches are great for removal of all sorts of things, but brake fluid is flammable. It is not recommended to use torches, but when all else fails... expect to rebuild when done, remove and drain first, cherry red and filled caliper could be a hell of a mess... be extra cautious, you could start a serious fire...watch out for over heating or breaking the caliper. I haven't used the torch for this... I have drilled and extracted old bleeders to save a caliper.