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You are an artist. Car looks stunning.
We have a 65 GTO on a set at work right now and it pushes pretty well once it gets moving. Works best with 2 guys.
I figured I may as well keep this thread up to date. I found I like linking some of my technical threads where I am fixing things in detail here. Easier to find again.
Anyway some updated pictures with all the trim on.
It looks great.
Good picks. Will open a thread in October for the 2021 C Body Calendar. Take some killer picks in 20m or better, next years calendar will be much improved.
I did a tune up earlier this spring. I wanted to learn how to use an oscilloscope so I hooked it up to an engine analyzer to check the balance and coil and spark system.
What did you do to your C-body today....
And I bought a clear spark plug to check the carb richness.
Looking for the bright blue light (air fuel mixture)
I Spent some time chasing down my fuel sender accuracy. My repop would only go to 3/4 tank. I was recommended to try the Meter match by Big John. At the same time I decided to try and rebuild my original sender. Everything checked out on the bench but was getting some crazy readings. Come to find out my original one was twisted and did not sit flat in the bottom of the tank. Got it squared away now. And goes to full and seems accurate. I haven’t used much gas yet to verify the low end.
Fuel Sender calibration using Meter Match
I got a lift last weekend. Direct Lift Propark 8 plus long. Finally after I am done with the restoration.
Anyway I found my vibration issue at 80 mph. I think it was creeping lower. Turns out I had a bad U joint. It was tight torsionally but could move it up and down in one axis. Around 2,000 miles. The lift made it easy. I replaced it and my vibration doesn’t start until I get close to 90 mph.
I think you can set the stop kill switch at a lower height--or at least relocate it so the hoist will not go any higher than you want to.
Since I had easy access to the under side I decided to pull my starter and re build it. It was sounding a little slow. Seemed even slower when the engine was warm. So I tore it apart, cleaned the brushes and armature and installed new bushings. Turns much faster now.
Chrysler Starter disassembly and refresh.
No limit switch. The hydraulic cylinder runs out of stroke at the top. No wiring to the towers or cylinder. When I am working on it, the optimal height is one stop below my self imposed maximum. If I go to my max with the car on it I really have to reach higher than comfortable and I am about 6’3.
Found my vibration for real this time. Finally sent my drive shaft to get either re-built or balanced. They ended up straightening one of my u-joint ears and about 3 other places along the drive shaft. Then they re balanced it. I also did some pinion and transmission alignment. Now I can get up to 100 mph with no vibration.
Thread on pinion alignment and drive shaft.
Drive Line Angle will drive you crazy
Ok one picture here.
The reason I started messing with my drive shaft was due to my radiator being out to get re cored.
I was starting to see some green among a couple of rows. Not enough to drip yet but starting to seep. Found a local shop that still re-cores.
Went from a 2 row std core to a 3 row high efficiency core. I should be good at any temperature.
Looks good. FWIW, I'd get some screening from the hardware store and make a bug catcher for that nice new rad.
My hit list is shrinking. Made a new tang for my ashtray using a picture I found on the internet. Not as springy as I would like as I used regular weld steel. I may try 5/8” banding material. But for now it stays closed and I can pull the ashtray all the way out.
I will keep a cheap ashtray on my hit list to someday harvest an original.
You are spot on. My trial runs were at dusk so I collected more than I liked. Dad used to put one on this car. The grasshoppers in Montana could plug up a radiator quickly.
I need something just smaller than the fins. A regular screen blocks about 1/3 of the air flow. (I have had to work with our engineers on machine cooling tests)
But with more capacity now I am probably ok.
Left on my hit list/dream list totally anal retentive list:
Send Carburetor to Dana -planned after first snow fall. That is likely the last item I didn’t completely restore besides cleaning it up and putting a carburetor kit in it.
Find ‘68 RH exhaust manifold with working heat crossover flapper - I have a ‘69 -‘70 one on there now in perfect working condition.
NOS speedometer cable - the repro’s are just a little too long.
NOS right and left rear parking brake cables. - main cable is NOS, but rears are repro.
Change vent window seals. -I have NOS ones in the drawer.
Find proper pattern trunk mat for ‘68. I am unable to find the proper pattern. I had a thread on here somewhere documenting’65 -‘69.
NOS lower sill trim. After straightening and polishing mine it is lower on my list, but since they are no longer anodized I need to keep polishing. If I ever see some and have cash in my pocket, I will buy them.
Clean up and paint 4 or 5 original hubcaps in case I want to go really crazy and go with original style tires and rims. I have about 10 or 12 to pick the best ones.
I am not in any hurry, but I was hoping to get to Carlisle this year to start my search.
Other than that it is probably time for a new project and drive the hell out of it to depreciate it down to actual resale value. I probably need 100k miles to break even.
I have a 68 Fury II 4 door sedan that has a complete trunk mat. I am ignorant in the variances and I suspect it is different. It’s available as a template if you wish.
Thanks for the offer. I have the shape, it is just the print pattern that seems to be elusive.
Trunk Mat Truths. What’s correct?
The material pattern I need/want.
from a beautiful convertible on e-bay a few years ago. Original trunk mat with the P/N still on it.