70 Newport Rear springs

Oh, and I can't stress enough to lubricate the rusted threads under your car, days in advance
 
I have replaced springs on 5 Polaras. The most recent being a few months ago on the #2 convertible. All 5 sets of springs were bought through Springs & Things. Their pricing is good, springs are made in the U.S. and shipping and response time is quick. What more could I ask for?
Yeah man, that sounds perfect. Esp. the made in usa part. This a weekend job?
 
Not sure if you are planning to roll the axel and springs out as one unit, but that's how I did it. One thing to remember is to jack the car up high enough so the tires clear the rear bumper. You might even have to remove the rear valance panel. Took a couple of tries but I eventually had to remove the wheels and drop the whole thing down and roll it out with the jack. I soaked the forward bracket bolts for a week with PB Blaster and I still managed to snap two on each side.

image.jpg
 
Gary, your springs and brackets look like what is under my 71...

And to my research there is no reproduction shackles for our cars, unless I missed something . Laura was also surprised to see the shackles that we have. She has been selling people straight shackles without the offset and no one has said anything. My bolts snapped and I had to source used.

View attachment 49993
You remember the U bolt dims? Something like C = 8", B = 3 1/2", A = 3/4" socket? ring any bells?

U bolts-2T.jpg
 
Not sure if you are planning to roll the axel and springs out as one unit, but that's how I did it. One thing to remember is to jack the car up high enough so the tires clear the rear bumper. You might even have to remove the rear valance panel. Took a couple of tries but I eventually had to remove the wheels and drop the whole thing down and roll it out with the jack. I soaked the forward bracket bolts for a week with PB Blaster and I still managed to snap two on each side.

Thanks James. Not sure. Is that the best method? Is it possible to remove each spring without rolling out the entire assembly? (axel & springs) like in your pic? I don't think I want to drop the driveshaft if its not necessary. I have plenty of stands and a jack that will get the *** end up high enough. Another mopar friend says he uses a torch to heat up and expand difficult nuts/bolts.
 
Thanks James. Not sure. Is that the best method? Is it possible to remove each spring without rolling out the entire assembly? (axel & springs) like in your pic? I don't think I want to drop the driveshaft if its not necessary. I have plenty of stands and a jack that will get the *** end up high enough. Another mopar friend says he uses a torch to heat up and expand difficult nuts/bolts.

All a matter of preference, I needed to work with the differential so it all came out. You could certainly support the axel and drive shaft and pull one spring at a time. More time on your back, but it may be easier putting it all back together.
 
I prefer the one spring at a time swap. To pull the diff you'd remove brake line, parking brake cable, and unbolt the spring perches front, and rear. then you'd need to re bleed the brakes.
 
Thanks James. Not sure. Is that the best method? Is it possible to remove each spring without rolling out the entire assembly? (axel & springs) like in your pic? I don't think I want to drop the driveshaft if its not necessary. I have plenty of stands and a jack that will get the *** end up high enough. Another mopar friend says he uses a torch to heat up and expand difficult nuts/bolts.

One at a time.

Jack the car and get your stands under it. Floor jack under rear axle and lift so there is no tension up or down on the spring. Unbolt the U-bolts followed by the shackles. Drop the end of the spring on the floor and then work on the front.

To install, reverse, but I like to jack the rear up a little more and then let it down onto the center bolt.
 
I prefer the one spring at a time swap. To pull the diff you'd remove brake line, parking brake cable, and unbolt the spring perches front, and rear. then you'd need to re bleed the brakes.
Yup. Sounds like extra work. One thing I've learned if nothing else on old cars. If its not broke don't try to fix it (or disturb it).
 
One at a time.

Jack the car and get your stands under it. Floor jack under rear axle and lift so there is no tension up or down on the spring. Unbolt the U-bolts followed by the shackles. Drop the end of the spring on the floor and then work on the front.

To install, reverse, but I like to jack the rear up a little more and then let it down onto the center bolt.
That's the Ticket. Thanks BJ.
 
Gary, unless you are going to clean it up and paint it or replace the center section there is no need to slide it out from under the car. I've done it both ways and I've found that one side at a time is more simplistic than full removal.
 
Gary, unless you are going to clean it up and paint it or replace the center section there is no need to slide it out from under the car. I've done it both ways and I've found that one side at a time is more simplistic than full removal.
Ya Dave I hear you. I'm gonna do one side at a time. I could probably slide it all out but I really don't want to get into all that. I got the seven leaf/1" lift configuration. Should all be here shortly. Laura very nice to work with.
 
Yes she is. Those springs will probably be there Monday or Tuesday. They ship fast...... good for you man she needs them.

When you bolt them on and set it down it will be high but that will settle in.

Maybe pull a before and after measurement to see the difference
 
Yeah, you said it. The *** end will squat under hard acceleration, wasn't really that noticable when I got the car but now it is. The springs themselves are just about horizontal! Good idea..measurements. I'm going to take plenty pics.
 
lol. I probably would have to but I got a reminder in one of the earlier posts to do so. Really can't wait to start either. I'm going to clean up and reuse the same shackles for the reasons you already aware of. I'm going put new bushings in them.
 
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