8-10 mpg

I don't take stock in town driving mileage. What do you get on the highway, like a 50+ mile trip of steady driving on the interstate?
I haven't made a long trip since all of the upgrades, repairs and adjustments. When I drove it home from the PO, I got 14 mpg on the highway with a very worn points distributor, timing mis-adjusted and a worn out Carter BBD from a 72 Dodge truck.

I guess it's time for a road trip!
 
subbing the 2.76 for a 2.94 is in the plans. I've heard from several people that 3.23 always felt like it need a 4th gear to shift into when cruising around due to the higher revs.
You won't notice any difference going from 2:76 to 2:94. Those are both "Highway" gears. 3:23 is the perfect "all rounder". 3:55, 3:73's are where you start running into driveability issues with the three speed transmission.

If you are doing mostly city driving I would recommend the 3:23 without question.
 
OK with your short 14” tires 2.9 may be ok. But may not be enough. Do you go anywhere on the freeway? It’s 70mph just out of your town and most go 80.

3.23 gears are really a great ratio. IMO
 
There's a lot of good suggestions here. We got 13.7 MPG on a recent trip with my 300.

One question I will ask is if you know if your speedometer/odometer is accurate? Tire and gear changes without correcting the speedo are pretty common. If you think about it, a 10% error in the odometer might not be noticed, but 10% of 12MPG is 1.2MPG.

Just food for thought and something to check.
 
If you can keep your foot calmed down a 440 gets better mileage than a 383 2bbl, lots more torque.
 
OK with your short 14” tires 2.9 may be ok. But may not be enough. Do you go anywhere on the freeway? It’s 70mph just out of your town and most go 80.

3.23 gears are really a great ratio. IMO
I don't take the Newport on the freeway too often, if ever. it's my "weekend" car for putzing around and running errands.
 
There's a lot of good suggestions here. We got 13.7 MPG on a recent trip with my 300.

One question I will ask is if you know if your speedometer/odometer is accurate? Tire and gear changes without correcting the speedo are pretty common. If you think about it, a 10% error in the odometer might not be noticed, but 10% of 12MPG is 1.2MPG.

Just food for thought and something to check.
Speedo is not accurate, odometer is non-functional but I use a GPS phone app when I drive to keep track of mileage and MPH.
 
As to rear axle ratios, the 2.93 was usually a 318/automatic ratio. With the shorter 7.75x14 or 8.25x14 tire, that gave it a particular cruise rpm range which was suitable for the 2bbl carbs those engines came with. But with B/RB cars, with their larger 8.55x14 tires, it was 2.76 with the 2bbl cars in order to use their greater torque for relaxed highway cruise rpms. 440 NYs had 2.76 as standard, too. Usually, everywhere the 2.76 was standard, the 3.23 was optional and vice versa.

I figured that our '66 Newport with 2.76 and 8.55x14 tires would do 28.66mph/1000rpm, for example. The 2.94 was used in Imperials with their taller 9.15x15 tires and heavier weight, possibly as a way to compensate for the taller tires?

300s, being the "Sporty Chrysler", would naturally get 3.23s as standard, with 2.76s optional.

With the factory HP motors, the 3.23s were standard for a couple of reasons. A LOT of those engines were sold to law enforcement entities, where acceleration was important, so to guarantee those customers got what they needed, as standard equipment, it was 3.23s. Plus it got the engine into the meat of the power curve sooner, so all the much better. No worries about highway fuel economy, either, as "getting there fast" was more important to those customers.

To me, relaxed cruising and a 2nd gear which can string out to 90mph at WOT is what I desire. Off-line acceleration should be responsive, not necessarily "rubber smokin'". With that "relaxed cruising" also translating to "increase fuel economy at cruise", too.

Everybody has their own orientations on "cruise rpm", off-idle response, and such.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
You guys can have all the 2.76 you want. They kill the torque and keep the engine out of the power band too much. Mopar trying to compete with GM.


@darth_linux your non freeway car really needs 3.23 gears, best number for it. 2.9 is better but still not enough.
 
Speedo is not accurate, odometer is non-functional but I use a GPS phone app when I drive to keep track of mileage and MPH.
That sounds good, one question I would have about the app is if it uses real mileage driven or "as the crow flies" type mileage.

If it's doing actual mileage, (it probably is), it would seem to me that it's more accurate and comparing it to the rest of the world that does it with a usually "slow" speedo, might be tripping you up.

I'm over-thinking it though...
 
65 Monaco, 383 4 barrel, dual exhaust, 2.94 rear, 10:1 compression, 394 hp. I get 11.6 on the highway. If I wanted gas mileage I would drive a sub compact. It cost me $20 to take it anywhere.....doesn't stop me from driving it.
 
70 Fury I 225 3 speed manual no power anything, 3:55 gear. 17mpg average. No big block can beat that.
 
Both of my small block cars get almost 20 but that's on the highway and they weigh around 3000#.
 
66 Newport 383 with 2.76 gear/ps/pb/ac/Uniroyal Tiger Paws at 30 psi. Stone-cold stock. Distributor working correctly with no recurve or alterations. 12% initial advance. It gives 16 suburban driving, 25 to 50 mph, hills, flats and traffic lights. 18 at 70 interstate. Light to light block to block city, 12.
64 New Yorker 340 horse 413/3.23 gear. Stone cold stock, 9 to 14 mpg.
71 Imperial, 14 mpg at 55 to 70.
 
My 70 Charger SE 383 Magnum got around 16-17 on the hwy in stock form . 12-13 city . I dropped a 440-6 with mild solid roller cam in and still got mid teens on the hwy. The 383 went into my 74 SWB W100 with 3.55s and that would still get 10ish in town and 14-15 hwy .

Your driving conditions and habits can make a huge difference in mpg…. Have you tried babying it around town just to see what happens to mpg ? If it jumps to 12+ then you know its driving style.

And have you done a compression check ?
Does it roll freely ? Could be drag in driveline.
 
Canadian gallon is Imperial gallon.

1 Imperial gallon = 1.20 US gallons.

0.833 Imperial gallons to 1 US gallon.
 
Despite upgrading to electronic ignition (HiRev 7500 box and distro kit), rebuilt carb (tuned at idle to 19 in/mg), timing advanced slightly to 15 BTDC @ 500rpm, kick down linkage adjusted to factory spec, etc., I’m not getting better than 8-10 mpg in town even with driving very conservatively.

I’m thinking that’s probably in the ballpark for what it’s gonna get, but I’d love to get up to 12-14 …. 66 383-2V with single exhaust.

Aside from throwing more money at the car in the form of dual exhaust, newer carb, does the collective wisdom have any advice?

I’m buying 91 octane non-ethanol at $4.86 a gallon, and wow, it adds up fast.

Thank you!

This is about as good as it gets. Think! You're driving a 2 ton iron vehicle around. I get on good days 11 mpg in town, after getting a brand new Edelbrock Performer 1405, remachined 915 heads, a 3:23 rear end, custom curved distributor et cetera. It doesn't differ much from the engine at its worst 5 yrs ago, with a fire damaged Stromberg WWC 3 262, 2:76 rear end, Cardone 30-3817 w no vacuum advance and a disintegrating transmission. These cars weigh a lot, and the B/RB engines have very similar performance. My 66 New Yorker in 2004 with an absurd Accel coil, electronic distributor, a 440 did exactly as well on gas mileage in town or the highway. Stromberg WWC carb.

On the HIGHWAY, one can tune some decent performance from our engines, maybe getting as much as 17 mpg, but in town, be happy with 10 mpg.
 
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Thanks again for all of the input. Some people went beyond the scope of the question, and some people clearly didn't read my own comments about what I've done/not done, but that's all ok. It was a great discussion.

As I suspected, 10mpg is about right for putzing around town with what I have. I'm gonna do a long road trip and see what she gets on the highway, which I think will tell me more about whether my upgrades have made an improvement or not.

I definitely have a plan for the car going forward - installing dual exhaust and a 3.23 rear end taking the priority. If I get crazy enough I might seek out a 68 or later 440 with all of the "Super Commando" "Magnum" "TNT" specs and replace my existing engine outright, but we'll see. I'm not drag racing the thing . . .

Anyway, I appreciate all of the comments.
 
Gas Pigs will have: too much rolling resistance, wrong operating temperature [too cold], a poor tune up with not enough timing, wrong timing curve, cheap plug wires, crossover not blocked, stretched timing chain, direct drive fan instead of thermostatic drive, burning premium when it does not need it.

So tell me how to properly test & decrease rolling resistance, yes this is a quiz
 
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