8 3/4" axle shaft damaged wheel studs, advice

moonrunner1972

moonrunner1972

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Greetings fellow C-body enthusiasts! Once again I bring you my mechanical problem for your advice. The previous owner of my 1973 Polara had the wheel studs spot welded into the axle shaft flange. The threads on the studs are beginning to become increasingly difficult to thread the lugnuts onto. Should I try my luck at the hinged thread restorers or do the typical thread repairers do the trick? Or, should I simply find a new set of axle shafts?
 
I assume they are welded on the back? Is it spot welds, or does the weld run around the whole shoulder? If it were me I would first try and cut the welds and remove the studs. Then clean it up and see if I could re-use the axle with new studs pressed in. If not then I would try and find a new axle(s) and start over from scratch.
 
commando1 said:
Man, ten of them is going to be a *****. I know what I would do.

Posted via Topify on Android
Click to expand...

A 4.5" flapper disc on a angle grinder will make short work of the welds, and wheel stud shoulders. This is one of my new favorite tools...discovered how handy these things were while doing the 2wd to 4wd conversion on my 84 cummins crewcab. :)
 
The axle shaft flange looks to be damaged beyond the point where cutting the welds would remedy the situation. Judging by the responses, it would appear that I should look for a set to replace the pair currently in the car. This leads me to another question. Should I keep the stock style bearing setup or switch to the one piece "green" bearing style? I have heard that the one piece style is not as durable. Any thoughts?

About fourteen years ago, I had switched to the "green" bearings and had taken the car on a few trips along the East Coast from NC to MA without issue. However, I recall reading an article in Mopar Action that claimed they were of an inferior design and the NOS setup is best. One of the reasons I did the conversion was the simplicity of installation. I found a reputable machine shop to press on the new bearings and have had no issues since. Since reading the article, I have begun to rethink the decision to use them again now that I am faced with replacing the axle shafts.
 
67Monaco said:
Ah yut, you have no idea how fast those things cut. On thick stuff I like em better than a grinding disk.
Click to expand...
These things?
WUW3WSRL1zirmonia_flap_disc.jpg
 
moonrunner1972 said:
The axle shaft flange looks to be damaged beyond the point where cutting the welds would remedy the situation. Judging by the responses, it would appear that I should look for a set to replace the pair currently in the car. This leads me to another question. Should I keep the stock style bearing setup or switch to the one piece "green" bearing style? I have heard that the one piece style is not as durable. Any thoughts?

About fourteen years ago, I had switched to the "green" bearings and had taken the car on a few trips along the East Coast from NC to MA without issue. However, I recall reading an article in Mopar Action that claimed they were of an inferior design and the NOS setup is best. One of the reasons I did the conversion was the simplicity of installation. I found a reputable machine shop to press on the new bearings and have had no issues since. Since reading the article, I have begun to rethink the decision to use them again now that I am faced with replacing the axle shafts.
Click to expand...

I read the same article in Mopar Action. It said the green axle shaft bearings (ball bearings) go bad within about 30000 miles of driving because they don't hold up well against lateral forces exerted on turns. I had a set of green bearings on a 69 Monaco. At 28000 miles, the right rear axle shaft broke in two at the axle shaft bearing and the wheel came off, destroying the right quarter and everything else nearby. As far as warning, I had a light shaking for about 30 seconds and the wheel was gone. If you intend to do a lot of driving, I'd avoid green bearings like the plague. I'd throw away your current shafts, get a set of replacements, and have a reputable shop press on tapered roller bearings. Adjusting them is cake, and what happened to me wouldn't happen to you or your family.
 
I have to agree...the green bearings were pushed, and promoted for the people who are either too lazy, or don't have enough skill to set-up the adjustable tapered axle bearings.

I ran some green bearings in a car years ago, and I did not like them. I sold the car before I put on too many miles, but I would never, ever consider running them again.
 
70bigblockdodge said:
They work good on welds your pressing to hard.
Click to expand...

They work great on welds just not combined with me, an angle grinder, and sheet metal. To bring down proud welds on sheet, I prefer cut off wheels at 90 degrees to the surface. Then 2.5" roll-lock sanding discs on air angle die grinder to finish it up.

Mill-scale? Oh I run the fugg outta the flap discs on mill-scale.
 
I'd stay away from the Green bearings for all the reasons listed here and more.
 
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