8 3/4" axle shaft damaged wheel studs, advice

Just not enough bearing surface with the green bearings and bumpy roads will pock mark the races speeding up the failure rate.
Also don't buy race axels they are not malleable for street use.
 
I've run several sets of Green sealed bearings. One set is on an E body that routinely clears 150mph and runs road courses. They are Dr Diff's later design. Another was on my Newport that also ran the highways at over 130, plus screamed around corners, etc when I was younger. A lot of issues are installer error (or ignorance) like he mentions. Tapered bearings are good, but not any better and require cleaning and regreasing just like the fronts do but they rarely get it which is why they tend to fail...lol. IMO - take your pick and you'll be fine either way - unless you get the earlier Greens.

To the OP - Not sure where you are but I believe I have some C body axles loose. I also have an entire rear if you need something more.
 
If you do decide to replace the axles I got the following from a tech article on
Moparts

  • 70-71 Fury and Chrysler: 8 ¾ axle shaft from tip of splined end to outer edge of flange: 30 5/8”
  • 70-73 Dodge full size and station wagon, 72-73 Fury and Chrysler:8 ¾ axle shaft from tip of splined end to outer edge of flange: 31 21/64”
Hope this helps

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/16.html
 
I don't see how that chart has helped anybody, ever if you have the right rear end in your car measure and order, if you have no rearend and find one that fits, better check it against the chart and find out that it still fits, and if you order parts based on a chart from a website don't complain that they won't take them back and that they(manufacturer) suck and you will never use them again, nope still not seeing a practical use for that chart.

BTW who has a tape measure that reads in 64ths.
 
I thought he could match his axles to one on the chart, carry a small straight edge and a tape measure to the junkyard, and then be fairly sure that what he pulled and was buying is correct. Of course, if the axle shafts are laying around loose, I guess things are much more tricky. As far as axle shafts, can he buy new from a manufacturer?
 
Big_John said:
A lot of good tape measures have 1/64 graduations for the first foot.

You can use them to measure that 31 21/64" by measuring back from 32".
Click to expand...

Well that answers that I only buy ones that I don't feel bad when it slides.off the roof.
 
1970FuryConv said:
I thought he could match his axles to one on the chart, carry a small straight edge and a tape measure to the junkyard, and then be fairly sure that what he pulled and was buying is correct. Of course, if the axle shafts are laying around loose, I guess things are much more tricky. As far as axle shafts, can he buy new from a manufacturer?
Click to expand...
I'm not picking on you I just find no real use and some humor in that chart.
 
If you're ever headed down to Virginia for parts, we could meet at Leon's Junkyard near Culpepper and see if these measurements are accurate. I'd also be up for a gin and tonic at a local watering hole thereafter.

mopartslogo.png
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[h=1]Moparts Tech Archive[/h][h=2]Rear Axle [/h]Axle lengths 8 3/4

I'll post the whole 8 3/4" thing again for those who didn't get it the first time:

Mopar 8 3/4" Rear End Dimensions
........................................
........................................
8 3/4" axle shaft lengths measured from the tip of the splined end
to the outside of the flange:
A BODY
'66-'72= 27 11/16"
B BODY
'65-'67= 28 7/8"
'68-'70= 29 3/16"
'71-'74= 30 5/8"
'71-'73 wagon= 31 21/64"
C BODY
'65-'69= 30"
'70-'71= 30 5/8" (Chrysler & Fury)
'70-'73= 31 21/64" (and '69 wagon)

IMPERIAL (Large Bolt Pattern)
'65-'66= 30 1/8"
'67-'69= 30 5/16"
'70-'71= 29"
'72-'73= 31 7/16"
E BODY
'70-'74= 29 31/32"
A100
'65-'70= 30"D100
'65-'71= 31 1/8"
'72-'74= 31 21/64
 
I'll meet for beers or whatever, I'm not measuring axels though they fit or don't as whole assemblies, or just order new ones to the length needed.
 
I'll let you know next time I'm headed to Leon's. I'll probably be looking for a 69 Fury Trunk Lid.
In a marginally related report, I now process expense reports for a large firm. We took a client to a Yankees game. Price for 12 oz Coronas and Magic Hats was $9.50 per beer. $9.50 a beer! Can you freakin believe that?! I remember when I was in college in the 1980s, I could buy a 6 pack of Red, White, and Blue (Pabst Blue Ribbon econo brand) for $1.58. That's for the whole 6 pack! The times, they are a changing.
Wherever we go, I hope it's hole in the wall with no insane rich people pricing.
 
moper said:
To the OP - Not sure where you are but I believe I have some C body axles loose. I also have an entire rear if you need something more.
Click to expand...

I am interested in a set, since the originals are damaged from the reasons mentioned previously. If you prefer, please contact me directly at moonrunner1972@yahoo.com.
 
1970FuryConv said:
I remember when I was in college in the 1980s, I could buy a 6 pack of Red, White, and Blue (Pabst Blue Ribbon econo brand) for $1.58. That's for the whole 6 pack! The times, they are a changing.
Wherever we go, I hope it's hole in the wall with no insane rich people pricing.
Click to expand...

Being a PBR fan long before it became cool with the Y2K/Hipster generation, a 12 pack of bottles can be had for $8.10 at the post shoppette/Class IV. Its about $1 less than you can find it at the local grocery store.
 
Yeah 10.80 a case then it jumped after it was in that country music video.

My grand father always bought his a "6 pack of big blue" at the drive thru package store.
 
1970FuryConv said:
I'll let you know next time I'm headed to Leon's. I'll probably be looking for a 69 Fury Trunk Lid.
In a marginally related report, I now process expense reports for a large firm. We took a client to a Yankees game. Price for 12 oz Coronas and Magic Hats was $9.50 per beer. $9.50 a beer! Can you freakin believe that?!
Click to expand...


Meh that's nothing. I've paid $45 for 12oz bottle two years ago. Yes it was a religious experience. And I have a 12 pack cellaring that cost me about $120. Another year and it'll be ready to start sipping.

At a Yankee game you're not paying for the beer, you're paying for the ballpark experience.
 
BTW: the tickets were $400 each.
At $400 a ticket and $9.50 a beer, I'm closed out of "the ballpark experience." I've seen other Yankees tickets at $160 each. Still closes me out. I went to a Brewers game at the old Yankees Stadium in the mid-1990s. The tickets were first tier, behind home plate, to the 3rd base side. I remember $40 a ticket. I wonder if the Steinbrenner family now has a place for people like me in the ballpark experience. As far as our hobby, maybe they ought to post a sign that says, "Only E-Body Owners Need Apply".
 
Go to the farm league games if there's one near you.
Its still the true baseball game "experience".
Especially triple A.
Posted via Topify on Android
 
Last edited:
You veterans can get free tickets for some games at vettix.com. Some of the guys I work with use this and get into some good games.
 
Green bearings are a necessity if you wish to convert to rear disks but there is an issue that ensues with a posi rear end.
If you look closely, you'll see that there is an adjuster ring on the right axle outside the seal. This adjuster gives the axles
.010 to .013 end play. Why? There is a pin between both axles that unloads the posi clutches when you turn a corner to
prevent the clutches from locking. When you turn a corner, one wheel has to travel a greater arc than the other and to do
so you don't want the differential clutches fully engaged. I saw an axle that had the pin heat fused right to the end of the
axle because of misadjustment. When you install disk brakes on the rear axle, the calipers are intolerant of side movement
by the axles. Proceed with caution what ever you install.
 
Yatzee said:
Green bearings are a necessity if you wish to convert to rear disks but there is an issue that ensues with a posi rear end.
If you look closely, you'll see that there is an adjuster ring on the right axle outside the seal. This adjuster gives the axles
.010 to .013 end play. Why? There is a pin between both axles that unloads the posi clutches when you turn a corner to
prevent the clutches from locking. When you turn a corner, one wheel has to travel a greater arc than the other and to do
so you don't want the differential clutches fully engaged. I saw an axle that had the pin heat fused right to the end of the
axle because of misadjustment. When you install disk brakes on the rear axle, the calipers are intolerant of side movement
by the axles. Proceed with caution what ever you install.
Click to expand...

Thanks Yatzee! I have decided against a rear disc swap in favor of upgrading from 2" to 3" brakes on the rear while going back to the adjustable rear wheel bearings. BTW, do you know if there is anyone out there that has filmed the adjustment process? Watching someone perform the operation would make the job a lot easier for me to understand.
 
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