Advice on intake manifolds

Thanks Dave, my gasket come with 4 fiber gaskets they say to put one on both sides of the valley pan is that a good idea or not ?

Go ahead and use both. It won't hurt anything and you will get an assured intake port seal. One of the problems with aluminum intakes is that they tend to flex more than a steel stock intake and this can cause problems getting a good seal. Using the fiber gaskets compensates for any problems with sealing. Be sure to use a bead of RTV at corner of the fiber gasket where it meets the steel valley cover at the ends of the valley rail as there can be a small void left there using the fiber gasket.

Dave
 
Thanks for the info Dave, also i was wondering if i should use the plate that goes on front of the valley pan ? I dont know what it does but from what i have seen i dont think most people bother to put it back on ?

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A lot of these cars had foil wrapped insulation under the manifold. This plate went over the leading edge of the insulation to help keep it in place. The insulation is usually deleted when the engine is rebuilt so the plate is no longer needed. You can keep it if you are going for a correct factory appearance, otherwise you do not need it. The insulation was added to help muffle valve train noise and make the engine seem quieter.

Dave
 
A lot of these cars had foil wrapped insulation under the manifold. This plate went over the leading edge of the insulation to help keep it in place. The insulation is usually deleted when the engine is rebuilt so the plate is no longer needed. You can keep it if you are going for a correct factory appearance, otherwise you do not need it. The insulation was added to help muffle valve train noise and make the engine seem quieter.

Dave

I always assumed it was to keep heat off the bottom of the intake ... is the valve train noise all it was for?
 
I always assumed it was to keep heat off the bottom of the intake ... is the valve train noise all it was for?

Far as I know, it was always for noise suppression which I believe to be correct. Heat probably was not the intent as there was a heat riser passage right above the insulation.

Dave
 
Not to hijack here but I'm currently trying to go with the 2186 and I'm wondering if anyone knows how much higher than the stock intake it will be? I don't have lots of room and I'm going back with the Carter and really want to keep the dual snorkel.
 
Not to hijack here but I'm currently trying to go with the 2186 and I'm wondering if anyone knows how much higher than the stock intake it will be? I don't have lots of room and I'm going back with the Carter and really want to keep the dual snorkel.
I have the 2186 with a 1/2" spacer, Eddy 750 and my air cleaner hits the bottom of the hood. Just an open element chrome deal with a short filter, 3" or so. '66 polara.
 
I have the 2186 with a 1/2" spacer, Eddy 750 and my air cleaner hits the bottom of the hood. Just an open element chrome deal with a short filter, 3" or so. '66 polara.
Not really what I wanted to hear. Guess I'll be going back with the stock intake. Thanks!
 
2186,750 Eddy carb,dual snorkel,heat passage blocked,electric choke,Schumacher motor mounts,HP manifolds. 68 Chrysler.
Still fits under the hood when shut.
I did the mock up in the first pic then ground off the Edelbrock name from the intake and painted it engine color.
The hood pad just sits on the air cleaner.
Second pic shows finished engine bay.
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2186,750 Eddy carb,dual snorkel,heat passage blocked,electric choke,Schumacher motor mounts,HP manifolds. 68 Chrysler.
Still fits under the hood when shut.
I did the mock up in the first pic then ground off the Edelbrock name from the intake and painted it engine color.
The hood pad just sits on the air cleaner.
Second pic shows finished engine bay.
View attachment 259012
View attachment 259013
And it looks danged good too!
 
I have the 2186 with a 1/2" spacer, Eddy 750 and my air cleaner hits the bottom of the hood. Just an open element chrome deal with a short filter, 3" or so. '66 polara.
You probably don't need the spacer I use, I put it back after I took off the Holley that required it.
 
To answer your question Clay, i put a 7186 on my 65 and the air filter i bought is a 3 inch i dont know if it will fit or not ? In the photo i replaced it with a 2 inch but i have not put the hood on yet so i hope it will fit ? I realy dont want to cut a hole in my hood. When i put my hood on i will let you know.

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On the issue of open element air cleaners which are "similar" to the original Corvette air cleaners. The original Corvette (and early Z/28 items) were designed to allow the 3" tall filter element to fit under the Corvette's hood. As a result, the base plate is depressed around the Holley 3310 4bbl that was used on the particular engines. Due to that level of "depression", the base plate clears the Holley carb. The similar aftermarket items have a base plate that has the base plate sitting 1" higher than the original. Much more generic in nature. There are some 2" tall 13" diameter elements, as I recall.

In the case of the Chevy item, it puts the air cleaner lid close to the base plate near the center, which can possibly restrict air flow but also better ensure the air makes a smoother turn into the throttle body in the process.

I have a Torker 383 on my '67 Newport 383. It clears fine with a factory dual snorkel air cleaner. As you look toward the cowl from in front of the grille, lower your body so you can sight the top of the air cleaner and the rear hood seal on the cowl. Use that as a guide of what would clear and by how much. By observation, Carter TQs are a taller carb than AFB/AVS and Holley 4bbls.

In the Edelbrock catalog, they have some measurements of carb mounting flange height for the particular manifold. Figure in using a 1/4" thick OEM-style carb base gasket, for best results. The original DP4B intake had a Chrysler part number cast into it, so it was "factory" in the stock classes of NHRA. Using that as a ref point might possible, using the other Edelbrock measurements for comparison.

It's good to make sure there is clearance with the engine not running, but the tighter the air clearance gets, the more critical engine torque movement can become. ALSO be sure the air cleaner stud is just long enough to get past the air cleaner's upper part, usually sitting in the center recess of that upper cover.

With an original hood silencer pad, they can sag in the middle a bit, which can put a wear pattern on the very top of the air cleaner, especially with an aftermarket intake.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Edelbrock has a listing of carb pad heights, but I don’t think they have the stock pad listed.
 
Either the 2186 or 7186 can fit the OP's vehicle. The 2186 should be no problem. If it was a 440, the Performer RPM 7186 may be a no-go, but with a 383 it is possible.

I have a DP4B on the 383 in my convertible and there are no fitment issues. The DP4B is basically an older version of the Performer 2186, and comparable height to the stock cast iron intake it replaced. Stock kickdown and throttle linkages work as well. If you're reasonable with air cleaner selection the 2186 should fit fine for you.

I have the Performer RPM 7186 on the 451 (400 block, same height as a 383) in my hardtop. That is a tight fit. I couldn't use a drop-base air cleaner because it would hit the electric choke module on my Edelbrock carb, so I went with the Edelbrock triangular air cleaner with cast aluminum lid. That just fits, and I do not have a silencer pad on the hood. I broke the driver's side motor mount once and the air cleaner hit the ribbing on the underside of the hood. I replaced that with a blowout-proof mount so it wouldn't happen again. I also bought a taller aftermarket throttle and kickdown bracket #AR036 for this intake from AREngineering. The linkage geometry with the stock-height bracket is wonky. I also bought their coil relocation bracket #AR208 which works with this intake but I haven't installed it yet.
 
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