GJS
Senior Member
That 200 buck price tag looks like a no sh** Sherlok if ever there was one. I couldn't find a decent instrument cluster bezel for that.
Cost of re- chroming and what cannot be re-chromed?
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That 200 buck price tag looks like a no sh** Sherlok if ever there was one. I couldn't find a decent instrument cluster bezel for that.
Looks good. I think it would be perfect for interior plastic parts. I wonder how much stripping would be needed for things like tail light bezels, and the prep involved.
Not cheap, but the alternative is much more.
Not cheap, but the alternative is much more.
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
There is NO substatute for real chrome, and not all chrome is created equal.
Depending on what level quality you require, chrome, like upholstery, is something you just step up to the plate for. You pay less, you get less.
Depending on what level quality you require, chrome, like upholstery, is something you just step up to the plate for. You pay less, you get less.
rapidtrans
Senior Member
The finished results look just like the "chrome" spray paints available.
I don't see a clear reflection in the finished piece like you would with real chrome.
I don't see a clear reflection in the finished piece like you would with real chrome.
From what I've read, the Spectra-Chrome spray system is the best bet for spray on chrome. Durability has been the biggest issue and I believe they may have it to the same level as a paint job now.
Don't expect to buy the stuff and do it yourself though. Materials are expensive and you have to have some training in technique. It's still not chrome, but it might be an acceptable alternative for die cast that needs a lot of very expensive work. Those cracks aren't going to be easily fixable without throwing a lot money at them.. Probably a lot more than buying NOS. Repair with epoxy and then spray chrome may be the affordable answer.
If it were me, I would have the obvious chrome parts (bumpers) done by a good chrome shop. Polish the stainless and aluminum pieces myself, and look seriously at the spray chrome for the die cast.
Don't expect to buy the stuff and do it yourself though. Materials are expensive and you have to have some training in technique. It's still not chrome, but it might be an acceptable alternative for die cast that needs a lot of very expensive work. Those cracks aren't going to be easily fixable without throwing a lot money at them.. Probably a lot more than buying NOS. Repair with epoxy and then spray chrome may be the affordable answer.
If it were me, I would have the obvious chrome parts (bumpers) done by a good chrome shop. Polish the stainless and aluminum pieces myself, and look seriously at the spray chrome for the die cast.
GJS
Senior Member
Just to clarify: I'm specifically referring to the very small chromed plastic accents on the interior of my car. I'd never use this for say a bumper or even my interior door handles.
Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
My thoughts exactly, when you see the video it does appear to have perfect reflectivity. Checking the description on the product it alludes to being very durable as well. I am also thinking it could be good for using on the top plates of the center console as well.
Took a journey to North Star plating in Brainerd MN today with my parts. It was a great trip and Pat the Sales Manager even took me on a tour of their bumper plating factory. They not only do classic cars, but also do 1,000’s of after market bumpers for Ford, GM and Dodge. Even though the parts are new they still do a lot of hand sanding, grinding, and polishing to get rid of the die marks. They then go through many stages of cleaning and rinsing before they are loaded on an automated line that takes each rack through the plating process. One these modern reproductions they just nickel plate prior to chrome (3 or 4 different stages eac getting brighter). After the chrome they are inspected and cleaned up. If defects are found they are repaired and re plated. Another interesting tidbit is they do 1,000’s of reproduction 36-39 Chevy bumpers per year ( I may be off a year or two). His comment was he didn’t realize there was that big of a market for those.
I will talk about their separate process for antique or collector bumpers in the next thread.
I will talk about their separate process for antique or collector bumpers in the next thread.
North Star plating continued.
For the old stuff they do more of a hand process vs automatic and is copper plated vs nickel.
They de-plate it using an acid and reverse polarity to actively remove the old plating. Then they fix any dents dings or rust. They even showed me a couple of examples where they had to weld a filler plate in. Even in just the copper it was invisible on the front side. After all the dents an blemishes are removed it sanded and polished. After being acid washed a number of times to get rid of any fingerprints or dirt it is then copper plated. Then it is inspected for any other blemishes and cleaned up further. The final step is chroming and then polishing. The guy wrapping it up for shipping is the final inspection with his name on it.
FYI a 68 Polara bumper re chrome is $509 per bumper. If your original is too far gone they have racks of cores for about $250. Bumpers are easier than pot metal so they actually have a price catolog. So if you have decent bumpers that can be repaired you at looking at a little over $1,000 plus tax.
Next the jewelry.
For the old stuff they do more of a hand process vs automatic and is copper plated vs nickel.
They de-plate it using an acid and reverse polarity to actively remove the old plating. Then they fix any dents dings or rust. They even showed me a couple of examples where they had to weld a filler plate in. Even in just the copper it was invisible on the front side. After all the dents an blemishes are removed it sanded and polished. After being acid washed a number of times to get rid of any fingerprints or dirt it is then copper plated. Then it is inspected for any other blemishes and cleaned up further. The final step is chroming and then polishing. The guy wrapping it up for shipping is the final inspection with his name on it.
FYI a 68 Polara bumper re chrome is $509 per bumper. If your original is too far gone they have racks of cores for about $250. Bumpers are easier than pot metal so they actually have a price catolog. So if you have decent bumpers that can be repaired you at looking at a little over $1,000 plus tax.
Next the jewelry.
Sticker shock wasn’t as bad as I expected, but the good news as Pat from North Star plating told me is I have about 6 months to save up for it.
I think by doing the 3 hour drive to bring the parts in person was well worth it. I even learned why there is so much argent paint, or exposed zinc ( I think it was Zinc or nickel). On the back sides and in the interior radius or corners the electrical charge cannot get in there to chrome. ( some where I saw another post talking about a 1-1/2 inch radius). It is kind of like a halo and only the raised face gets chrome. For concave surfaces they can trick it with Copper wire to get the current down in there, but seems to be an art form. That is why you see many insides of smaller grills the argent silver color.
Back to my pieces. For the first two he started a little high due to special set ups for the pot metal. When I kept bringing out pieces he commented that they were in really good shape with minimal pitting and not needing complex repairs he came down. It started out with the first three pieces at around $250 each which I could have accepted as they are still less than NOS e-bay pricing ( if you can find them). Then as he started writing them up and seeing the other parts he came down. The minimum he would go on any piece was $100. He talked me out of doing the headlight bezel rings x4 ( mount on plastic bezel surround) as he said they were In really good shape. Same for the fender mount turn signals. He said if after every things assembled and they bother me then get them done.
Anyway the bill for the 2 tai light bezels, tail light filler panel, left and right headlight/ grill surround and grill center will be around $1,000 including shipping back to me. ( picture in post 2 or 3).
Price seemed to be very reflective of condition and repairs needed along with number of parts.
I think by doing the 3 hour drive to bring the parts in person was well worth it. I even learned why there is so much argent paint, or exposed zinc ( I think it was Zinc or nickel). On the back sides and in the interior radius or corners the electrical charge cannot get in there to chrome. ( some where I saw another post talking about a 1-1/2 inch radius). It is kind of like a halo and only the raised face gets chrome. For concave surfaces they can trick it with Copper wire to get the current down in there, but seems to be an art form. That is why you see many insides of smaller grills the argent silver color.
Back to my pieces. For the first two he started a little high due to special set ups for the pot metal. When I kept bringing out pieces he commented that they were in really good shape with minimal pitting and not needing complex repairs he came down. It started out with the first three pieces at around $250 each which I could have accepted as they are still less than NOS e-bay pricing ( if you can find them). Then as he started writing them up and seeing the other parts he came down. The minimum he would go on any piece was $100. He talked me out of doing the headlight bezel rings x4 ( mount on plastic bezel surround) as he said they were In really good shape. Same for the fender mount turn signals. He said if after every things assembled and they bother me then get them done.
Anyway the bill for the 2 tai light bezels, tail light filler panel, left and right headlight/ grill surround and grill center will be around $1,000 including shipping back to me. ( picture in post 2 or 3).
Price seemed to be very reflective of condition and repairs needed along with number of parts.
Sounds like you got some good info and good prices.
But... about the nickel... You have to have it. Copper, semi bright nickel, bright nickel, hexavalent chrome.
Here's a decent FAQ about chroming.
Chrome Plating: Introduction & FAQs
But... about the nickel... You have to have it. Copper, semi bright nickel, bright nickel, hexavalent chrome.
Here's a decent FAQ about chroming.
Chrome Plating: Introduction & FAQs
Thanks for the correction. On the old pieces they start with copper. I didn’t put 2and 2 Together. I lost track of all the steps plus I was already writing a novel. I jut remember him pulling out a big copper ball that was about 2” in diameter. Now that I think back the old stuff prep room had only copper plated pieces in there. After it is ready and prepped with copper it must go to the automated line with the nickel steps and chrome. That would explain why I saw some old Camaro bumpers at the end of the chrome line.
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