traintech55
Senior Member
YES. Each year and car is different, but the center is removable. Some are held in by thru bolts, others have regular ones. Look for hidden bolts also. Yours look like it has 10 bolts.
engine removal 101 questions for the newbie - try not to die
- Thread starter saylor
- Start date
Absolutely - although you will have to use a floor jack or equivalent to lift it to bolt things back together when you reassemble as the torsion bars will force the center ends of the crossmember down, and it's not a bad idea to have it in there for disassembly to hold it together until the bolts are out. You should have two bolts front and back on each end for 8, then one on each end up inside that bolt upward to make 10. I like to remove the 8 first, then the inside ones as those bolts line up with the way that center piece is going to move (downward), and you won't ruin threads on the others and then of course reverse the process to reinstall. Piece of cake, but I wouldn't be lying directly under it when it comes loose.
saylor
Senior Member
holey mackerel
saylor
Senior Member
ok I just got the rear ujoint popped loose and driveshaft is resting on a jack while I recover. I need brawndo.
saylor
Senior Member
Strongway Hydraulic Engine Hoist with Load Leveler 2-Ton Capacity, 1in.82 5/8in. Lift Range | Engine Hoists| Northern Tool + Equipment
I think this is in my today future
I think this is in my today future
saylor
Senior Member
driveshaft removed, wrapped up end and stowed in the garage. good tip on undoing the rear ujoint half clamps. I figured there was a trick. on the 440/426 driveshafts, there is an 'intertia ring' at the front joint - smacking that with a soft end deadblow hammer got the rear ujoints to come loose - have jack already in place under the driveshaft to catch it - don't let it fall and hang from the front.
OR.... once the retaining straps are loose, just poke a large screwdriver between the axle flange and the u joint and pry a wee bit. That way you can hold it up.
Yatzee
Active Member
It is always wise to unload the torsion bars for the front suspension to keep the stub frame attachments for the tranny cross member from flexing downwards. There is a lot of energy stored in those bars and you may find when it comes time to replace the cross member you have a hard time lining the bolt holes up.
saylor
Senior Member
its all coming apart, so I hear that. and I don't trust torsion bars or coil springs.
Seems like the FSM illustrates a factory tool "holding fixture" to attach to the rear section of the torsion bars to ensure they remain at "ride height" rather than raising the car up as the engine is removed.
In general, on a unit-body vehicle, with no vehicle rolling frame, at the assembly plant, the assembled sub-frame goes UP to meet the suspended body. The engine is hung from "a hook", but it's mated with the sub-frame prior to that whole K-frame assembly meeting the body. The retention bolts (on the B-body at least) are tapered-shank and self-centering as a result. When non-tapered-shank bolts are used, there are alignment holes to line up between the body and sub-frame, by observation. This is also how fwd vehicles go together.
When you understand how the vehicles are built on the assembly line, using assemblies rather than individual components, you can understand how things have traditionally been done "in the field" are usually harder to make happen. In the '50s, an innovative tech (with sufficient shop space) would take out about 20 bolts to lift the complete "front clip" off of the car in one assembly, then have unrestricted access to the engine being worked on/overhauled, such that he wasn't always leaning across the front fenders or having to remove the hood. But with body/frame vehicles only. Certainly, it would take some "shop muscle" to make this happen, too.
Perhaps I've become a little jaded with how service procedures can change over the years AND better shop equipment? There are some fwd vehicles which have very poor accessibility of underhood items, so dropping the front cradle is so much easier and quicker to make happen to get these things done, even something "simple" like changing valve cover gaskets on some vehicles. Or the era (generally started by Ford, I believe) where to replace the turbo on a PowerStroke or DuraMax, you separate the cab from the chassis of the vehicle just to have accessibility to the failed turbo.
Above-ground lifts were not around when "our cars" were built. They happened after large concerns about hydraulic oil leaking from underground pressure cylinders and all that might mean (middle 1970s). So all service procedures were formulated to account for this, in an era when in-ground twin post (or swing-arm center-cylinder chassis) lifts were "the norm". But at the assembly plant level, engines went into rolling chassis, then the bodies "mated" with the rolling chassis at the "body drop", or on unit-body cars, the front sub-frame "went up" to meet the suspended body. Then when done, the rolling car was "on the ground" for completed assembly.
Be that as it may, whatever works for what you've got to work with.
CBODY67
In general, on a unit-body vehicle, with no vehicle rolling frame, at the assembly plant, the assembled sub-frame goes UP to meet the suspended body. The engine is hung from "a hook", but it's mated with the sub-frame prior to that whole K-frame assembly meeting the body. The retention bolts (on the B-body at least) are tapered-shank and self-centering as a result. When non-tapered-shank bolts are used, there are alignment holes to line up between the body and sub-frame, by observation. This is also how fwd vehicles go together.
When you understand how the vehicles are built on the assembly line, using assemblies rather than individual components, you can understand how things have traditionally been done "in the field" are usually harder to make happen. In the '50s, an innovative tech (with sufficient shop space) would take out about 20 bolts to lift the complete "front clip" off of the car in one assembly, then have unrestricted access to the engine being worked on/overhauled, such that he wasn't always leaning across the front fenders or having to remove the hood. But with body/frame vehicles only. Certainly, it would take some "shop muscle" to make this happen, too.
Perhaps I've become a little jaded with how service procedures can change over the years AND better shop equipment? There are some fwd vehicles which have very poor accessibility of underhood items, so dropping the front cradle is so much easier and quicker to make happen to get these things done, even something "simple" like changing valve cover gaskets on some vehicles. Or the era (generally started by Ford, I believe) where to replace the turbo on a PowerStroke or DuraMax, you separate the cab from the chassis of the vehicle just to have accessibility to the failed turbo.
Above-ground lifts were not around when "our cars" were built. They happened after large concerns about hydraulic oil leaking from underground pressure cylinders and all that might mean (middle 1970s). So all service procedures were formulated to account for this, in an era when in-ground twin post (or swing-arm center-cylinder chassis) lifts were "the norm". But at the assembly plant level, engines went into rolling chassis, then the bodies "mated" with the rolling chassis at the "body drop", or on unit-body cars, the front sub-frame "went up" to meet the suspended body. Then when done, the rolling car was "on the ground" for completed assembly.
Be that as it may, whatever works for what you've got to work with.
CBODY67
saylor
Senior Member
lol cbody I hear you,
but ive got a driveway in the sun and a black blanket to lay on - that's my work bay
but ive got a driveway in the sun and a black blanket to lay on - that's my work bay
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Doing good! I have the same hoist, works great, you'll be fine.
saylor
Senior Member
meanwhile in Texas . . .
this thing is a monster. but for $250 out the door I give it a Hell Ya. northern tool on sale now
this thing is a monster. but for $250 out the door I give it a Hell Ya. northern tool on sale now
You will probably have to extend the lifting arm as far out as you can so that the engine/trans. will clear the upper tie bar, but DO NOT extend it to where the chain is past the front wheels of the lift, or the lift is highly likely to tip over when there is a load on it, or when you try to move it.
I'm finding this disturbing... my cheapy cherry picker has extendable legs... I always run them out to full extension when working with any real weight. Keep what 65 500 said in mind when you extend the arm... if you put weight too far forward the lift can flip pretty suddenly... first indication will be the rear wanting to lift...
Try not to die...
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
I took that 383/727 out on dirt,and yeah, it was tippy. Watch out for when the front end lifts as the weight is taken off of it. That's where I had fun!
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Nice looking hoist. I've got my eye on a used one for $80 right now. Don't need it immediately, but the right hoist for the right price is a compelling thing. If yanking the whole "elephant head" (engine + transmission) then you'll have nigh 900 # on that boom and chain. DO be mindful of balance and safety, especially if you need to move the load a bit while suspended from the boom. I see the balance beam on the end of your boom. Nice. Bags of cement placed on the legs near the back can help keep it on the ground if the load (Heaven forbid!) gets too far forward and begins to tip the hoist, but not as well as good sense will.
Snitched this pic from Nick's ad - shows that rear crossmember quite plainly in the red circle and the blue arrows point to those vertical mounting bolt/nuts that were mentioned. Sometimes a good visual will replace hours of words.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Saylor: Sounds like you most everything covered; however. you should go and order this book, before you go any further:
Big-Block Mopar Engines (How to Rebuild)
This book has a wealth of tips and tricks regarding the removal, rebuilding and re-installation of big block Mopar engines. I plan to follow it to the letter for my current 440 / 383 engine swap project.
