Entering the 9 circles of hell... trying to resurrect my ATC... update IT LIVES!

MOVE N UP

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I enjoy a challenge, but this looks to be borderline sadism!
There are @ 12 separate components that can render this system inoperable from one failure - to nothing at all.
My ATC in my recently acquired coupe, is completely dead - no blower fan, and no reaction to any push button selection.
I have desided to start by replacing the 50 year old underhood vacuum lines to the "control circuit" and "slave circuit" systems. The next step was to see if the 2 systems vacuum resevoirs were functional. Control side ☑️ Slave side - no vacuum will hold. I decided to bypass the slave can and see what happens inside the car... Well I now at least have a distinctive vaccum hiss at the selector switch! And as I select modes I can hear activity in the mystical black control box in the kick panel

I have a nos switch on its way to me - and will swap that out, as I suspect it is one of my culprits. Ive looked into replacing my slave Rez - but I wanted to diagnose, and possibly repair mine - as it appears to be in great condition, but needed to make positive that it was not leaking from the seams- Using a bucket of water, and the blow gun on my air hose I submerged the can up to the trico check valve and gave a shot of air into the can -alas I found the only leak to be around the small grommet seal of the check valve into the can, and it was significant!! I dried it off, thoroughly cleaned up around the seal, and applied a nice bead of "right stuff" sealant, I will recheck tomorrow evening to see if it will solve the leak. I purchased 4 generic vaccum check valves and line adapters, and I plan to replace all 4 that are currently in the vacuum line harness. I will add more to this thread as I continue! Any other tips or advice would be much appreciated!
 
Oh BTW, my "performance indicator " (vacuum gauge) on my console finally reads properly at idle = since I have completed the slave circuit with the bypass of the Rez. As it is T'd into same line that feeds the Rez from the manifold vacuum fitting!
 
Ok. You appear to have found a number of the vacuum leak problems that render this type of system "dead". Now start checking for electrical issues.

Start by checking the pressure limit switches. The system will not operate if gas pressure is too high or too low. You first need to determine if the system is still set up for R-12 or R134a. If the system has been upgraded, it should have an R-134a expansion valve. Look at the top of your expansion valve. Does it say R-12 or R134a? Next check the pressure limit switch. This is located on the filter dryer canister. If you have adequate gas pressure, you should have a completed circuit at this switch. If not you need to re-charge the system with the appropriate type of refrigerant before proceeding further.. Contact with your reply when you have done this step.

If you have a service manifold available, what are your pressure readings?

Dave
 
What is ATC ?

Mopar had 2 air conditioning systems. ATC and manual A/C. Easiest way to tell is manual A/C will have a lever control for the fan speed control and ATC does not. I would recommend buying cars with manual A/C because they are so easy to repair. There are many threads on this forum about ATC and the frustration and failure to get that system to work.
 
It would help a lot to give year, model, and some photos.

My 65 Newport is manual climate w/ 4-button pneumo-electric switch. I did have the 5-button vacuum system in my 1969 Dart, so might have been ATC. People on a M-B website say the climate system in my 84 & 85 M-B cars was based on an obsolete (by then) Chrysler design, but I recall hearing from 1950's cars.
 
1968 Chrysler 300

IT IS ALIVE,
IT IS ALIVE,
IT IS A-L-I-V-E !!!!
My repair of the trico check valve on the slave circuit reservoir worked perfectly!!! Vacuum gauge read in the idle range as it should so that side of the system had no leakage... I checked out the vac line harness check valves with a mighty vac and surprisingly they were all leak free! However still no function of fan or selector switch!
Okay onto the little round green "master switch" I disconnected the vac line and wire connection- did the same for the matching (but yellow) compressor clutch switch.... put the green vac and plug onto that and BOOYAH the fan finally starts and, the fresh air door shuts and hot air is blowing out the defrost!!! Switch to auto, and the AC vents are now flowing!!!
Thanks to Tony BobFist Eriksson from one of the c body Facebook pages for the tip - I found a reasonably priced master/ clutch switch combo on eBay this afternoon- and I have that coming my way, to replace the failed master in my system !! My next step is employing my brother Scott to get my AC system up to snuff and getting a nice charge into it-then I can make sure the AC will blow cold next summer!
 
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Well done, I'm having my system rebuilt in Menasha WI. Randallsautohaus.com Randy Thomson. Apparently there are numerous issues including bypassed underhood connections and disconnected temperature sensors. Next step is to pull the dash, which needs doing anyway to check everything and replace the clock and remove the radio/8-track for repair/conversion to modern circuitry and modern speakers/wiring.

The rear Airconditioner works well, now for the front.
 
1968 Chrysler 300

IT IS ALIVE,
IT IS ALIVE,
IT IS A-L-I-V-E !!!!
My repair of the trico check valve on the slave circuit reservoir worked perfectly!!! Vacuum gauge read in the idle range as it should so that side of the system had no leakage... I checked out the vac line harness check valves with a mighty vac and surprisingly they were all leak free! However still no function of fan or selector switch!
Okay onto the little round green "master switch" I disconnected the vac line and wire connection- did the same for the matching (but yellow) compressor clutch switch.... put the green vac and plug onto that and BOOYAH the fan finally starts and, the fresh air door shuts and hot air is blowing out the defrost!!! Switch to auto, and the AC vents are now flowing!!!
Thanks to Tony BobFist Eriksson from one of the c body Facebook pages the tip - I found a reasonably priced master/ clutch switch combo on eBay this afternoon- and I have that coming my way to replace the failed master in my system !! My next step is employing my brother Scott to get my AC system up to snuff and getting a nice charge into it-then I can make sure the AC will blow cold next summer!

That is encouraging to hear. Not having a 1968 Autotemp 1 system, but rather a 1970 version, I was not sure what the parts you are describing look like. Is there any reasonable possibility of taking some photos of the parts you are describing and describing what you did to them again as you go along so we can all learn from this step by step? Without photos, the parts you are describing are not obvious to me from looking at my version of ATC 1. Any hissing going on from the control unit behind the right kick panel? How many miles on your 68 300? Thanks!
 
That is encouraging to hear. Not having a 1968 Autotemp 1 system, but rather a 1970 version, I was not sure what the parts you are describing look like. Is there any reasonable possibility of taking some photos of the parts you are describing and describing what you did to them again as you go along so we can all learn from this step by step? Without photos, the parts you are describing are not obvious to me from looking at my version of ATC 1. Any hissing going on from the control unit behind the right kick panel? How many miles on your 68 300? Thanks!
I will take photos this evening, luckily =no hiss in my kick panel
And the car has@ 62,000 miles
 
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As it conditioning in Maine ?:realcrazy:
A situation where we agree on A/C... In fact, up there I wouldn't want a C-body with air.

Convertibles can be discussed at a future date...

I am glad, though, that since it's original to the car, it needed to be fixed.
 
1968 Chrysler 300

IT IS ALIVE,
IT IS ALIVE,
IT IS A-L-I-V-E !!!!
My repair of the trico check valve on the slave circuit reservoir worked perfectly!!! Vacuum gauge read in the idle range as it should so that side of the system had no leakage... I checked out the vac line harness check valves with a mighty vac and surprisingly they were all leak free! However still no function of fan or selector switch!
Okay onto the little round green "master switch" I disconnected the vac line and wire connection- did the same for the matching (but yellow) compressor clutch switch.... put the green vac and plug onto that and BOOYAH the fan finally starts and, the fresh air door shuts and hot air is blowing out the defrost!!! Switch to auto, and the AC vents are now flowing!!!
Thanks to Tony BobFist Eriksson from one of the c body Facebook pages for the tip - I found a reasonably priced master/ clutch switch combo on eBay this afternoon- and I have that coming my way, to replace the failed master in my system !! My next step is employing my brother Scott to get my AC system up to snuff and getting a nice charge into it-then I can make sure the AC will blow cold next summer!

AWESOME !! Please check with Stan (@commando1 ). At home, in his safe is a "My ATC Hero" medal that he will present to you.
 
Vacuum line replacement
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Vaccum reservoirs and trico check valve grommet repair

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Manifold vaccum supply and harness check valves
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Master switch/Clutch switch
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