Exact starter switch

Gary, you don't even have to crawl underneath to bypass the relay.

Take the wire that goes from the relay to the solenoid and simply jump a direct connection to it from the battery.
This will also take the Fusible Link out of the equation.

2lw24wk.jpg
 
Plus I'm running out of options to the point I'm thinking it's the Fusible Link.
Don't make me come up there, Gary
 
Stan is right. That way will work very nicely and will be easier than crawling under the car.
 
Find something else to short it with. It doesn't have to be a screwdriver. Use a quarter.... a piece of wire...

Don't take it out....
Ok. It "whir" and clicked once and that's all I can get out of it. It will click every time I jump the terminals...with someone turning the key to start. What is this telling me....cause I've run out of ideas at this point and I admit it.
 
If the fusible link was faulty, I would get nothing - correct??. I had to replace the fusible link two falls ago. It did it's job on the way home one day and left me stranded. The next day I made on up and that was the end of it. I also made a spare I keep in the glove box.
 
Ok. It "whir" and clicked once and that's all I can get out of it. It will click every time I jump the terminals...with someone turning the key to start. What is this telling me....cause I've run out of ideas at this point and I admit it.

It's telling you you have one of three problems.

1. Battery

2. Battery connections or cable (including the connection to the block) By this I mean the big fat wire that goes from the battery to the starter and the big wire that goes to the block. NO OTHER WIRES OR SWITCHES OR RELAYS

3. Starter

Again... You've eliminated the battery.

So, two problems.

1. Battery connection or cable (see above)

2. Starter.

You've tried other starters (At least I think you have) so that may be out of the picture... but then again, have you actually bolted in a known good starter?

Eliminate the starter as a problem and you're down to one problem

1. Battery connections or cables. (See above)


I would do this:

1. Remove both battery cables from the battery

2. Clean these connections until they are shiny.

3. Remove and clean the battery cable connection at the starter. Again... Shiny metal.

4. Remove and clean battery ground cable connection at engine block. Shiny metal on the cable AND the block.

If this doesn't work and it's not wasted time as this probably needs to be done anyway, I would

1. Change the starter.
 
If the fusible link was faulty, I would get nothing - correct??. I had to replace the fusible link two falls ago. It did it's job on the way home one day and left me stranded. The next day I made on up and that was the end of it. I also made a spare I keep in the glove box.

Please... Read what I am saying..... You are bypassing all this ****.
 
Ok. It "whir" and clicked once and that's all I can get out of it.
OK!!!
Is that "whir" as you call it, the PINION gear spinning and NOT engaging the Torque Converter gear??
Or is the STARTER motor "whiring" indicating it IS engaging the TC ring gear?
Humongous difference and very important to make the distinction.

2jbup2t.jpg


The Pinion gear slides in and out to engage the torque converter ring gear.

The pinion gear stay depressed while the ignition switch is in the ON position.
When you turn the key to the START position, the solenoid makes the pinion gear "pop out" to engage the TC ring gear. Release the key from the START position and the current activating the solenoid cuts out and the pinion gear retracts.
 
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OK!!!
Is that "whir" as you call it, the PINION gear spinning and NOT engaging the Torque Converter gear??
Or is the STARTER motor "whiring" indicating it IS engaging the TC ring gear?
Humongous difference and very important to make the distinction.

2jbup2t.jpg


The Pinion gear slides in and out to engage the torque converter ring gear.

The pinion gear stay depressed while the ignition switch is in the ON position.
When you turn the key to the START position, the solenoid makes the pinion gear "pop out" to engage the TC ring gear. Release the key from the START position and the current activating the solenoid cuts out and the pinion gear retracts.

Whoa, whoa hold on. Your throwing too much at me at once....you are making this a bit more complicated that it needs to be. I appreciate it but I do not think there is any need for exploded views of starters motors. My GUT tells me therein the problem does not lay. Why? because two other starters (that were in perfect working order when removed) did the same EXACT thing. Although they were not bolted on...they were connected and grounded out. Each one did the very same thing this one is doing now).

1. I crossed the terminals (on the starter) with the key in start position (someone held it there). The started activate, it emitted that unique "chrysler" starter motor sound (you KNOW exactly what I'm saying), it sounded to me like it was about to engage for about a
"microsecond".....and then "click". And that was it. Repeated attempts yielded the same results. Typically (at least for me) when everything is working properly the starter will kick once or twice or MAYBE three times before the motor fires...and you go off merely on your way.
 
It's telling you you have one of three problems.

1. Battery

2. Battery connections or cable (including the connection to the block) By this I mean the big fat wire that goes from the battery to the starter and the big wire that goes to the block. NO OTHER WIRES OR SWITCHES OR RELAYS

3. Starter

Again... You've eliminated the battery.

So, two problems.

1. Battery connection or cable (see above)

2. Starter.

You've tried other starters (At least I think you have) so that may be out of the picture... but then again, have you actually bolted in a known good starter?

Eliminate the starter as a problem and you're down to one problem

1. Battery connections or cables. (See above)


I would do this:

1. Remove both battery cables from the battery

2. Clean these connections until they are shiny.

3. Remove and clean the battery cable connection at the starter. Again... Shiny metal.

4. Remove and clean battery ground cable connection at engine block. Shiny metal on the cable AND the block.

If this doesn't work and it's not wasted time as this probably needs to be done anyway, I would

1. Change the starter.

UGHHHH. I'm getting SOOO tired of swapping out starters esp. since they are all acting in the same exact manner...EACH on identical to the other. I really don't think the problem lies there, if each one does the same exact thing.

I agree though cleaning everything to a spit shine could be well worth the extra effort. I may look at the fusible link also now that I've been thinking about it. The problem is the last fusible link burnt up because a wire from the alternator touched bare metal (the insulation had deteriorated in parts).
 
Don't worry so much about the problem you are having now. You will figure it out and then say WTF, why didn't I think of this before. I find it best to remove myself from situation that is giving me trouble and do something else. You will eventually get a eureka moment and it will all come together. We are all here to help.
 
Don't worry so much about the problem you are having now. You will figure it out and then say WTF, why didn't I think of this before. I find it best to remove myself from situation that is giving me trouble and do something else. You will eventually get a eureka moment and it will all come together. We are all here to help.
Thanks. I appreciate it. I know you are right, its just driving me bat **** esp. after going over everything with a microscope almost. Hopefully something will just come to me and that will be the end of this nonsense. Yesterday I saw at least 4 or 5 guys with old Chevys and Fords driving around. Made me feel even worse.
 
You could also pull the starter and take it to your local Advanced Auto Zone Boys and have them test it.

Did you try turning the engine over by hand yet?
 
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