First Drive in 32 years.

Zymurgy

Old Man with a Hat
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The day came that my car moved under it's own power. Yes! :eek:s_dancing2:

The video is rather anticlimatic. I was running out of time today and decided to take it for a spin around the barn yard with spongy brakes. I totally overhauled the brake system and never got them complete bleed. Any bleeding tips are welcome. Any tips on the hung up covertible top would be appreciated too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5h7p-C-O90I&feature=plcp
 
Congratulations! I bet that was one of the best rides you ever had.
 
Look on YouTube for how to bleed brakes, there must be a million of them. Watch several of your choosing until you're satisfied that you have enough tips.
Also do a search for SpeedBleeder bleed fittings.
I use them and love them.

(Sent using Forum Runner)
 
Looking good. :)

Could be air in the top lines? If I remember you are supposed to run it up and down a few times with the filler cap off to bleed the lines.
 
Could be air in the top lines? If I remember you are supposed to run it up and down a few times with the filler cap off to bleed the lines.[/QUOTE]

Good advise, After cycling the top up and down a few times it should start to work better

As for the brake hydralics, fill the master cylinder and just crack the w/cyl bleed screws, then let it seep through for a couple of hours. Pumping the brake pedal is not a good practice. open the furthest bleeder screw, (right rear), and slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it down for a few seconds. Release and tighten the bleeder, then slowly stroke the brake pedal a couple of times after refilling the master cyl. Repeat with each wheel. It's a little time consuming, but effective.
 
Good news....... You had to feel great..... I'll watch the video at home.....
 
I always start out with gravity bleeding as stated previously...full master cylinder and crack open all 4 bleeder valves keeping an eye on the master cylinder. Don't want to run out of brake fluid. Then I always use a 2 man operation, one person pumping the brakes while I'm opening and closing the bleeder valves. Communication is the key. When you are bleeding the brakes, starting with the farthest away (right/rear them left/rear, etc.) pump the brakes and hold the pedal down, then open the bleeder. When the brake pedal goes to the floor, make sure the person holds the brake pedal down and don't let up on the brake pedal or start pumping the brake pedal until you close the bleeder valve. Once the bleeder valve is closed then he can pump the brake pedal again until he has a stiff pedal and hold the brake pedal down again while you open and close the bleeder valve again. Keep doing this and it may take 5 or more cycles UNTIL YOU GET A STEADY STREAM OF BRAKE FLUID WITH NO BUBBLES OUT OF THE BLEEDER VALVE. Once this happens, you can move to the next furthest bleeder valve. Make sure that you take a look in the master cylinder about every third time you open and close the bleeder valve. You don't want the master cylinder to run out brake fluid because you'll have to start all over again. Don't forget to top of the master cylinder to the proper fill point and put the master cylinder cap back on when you are done.
 
Thanks for the great advice on brake bleeding. I had all the right process but the opening and closing and pumping backward so my efforts were futile.
 
Remarkable progress in such a short time and with no long term experience. Congrats. I really like the car the way it is with a little tlc added at least from what I can estimate from the video appearance. You got work space out there I can only dream of over at my place.
PS: fix that brake light.:)
 
Finally got to watch it.
Here's the money shot!! Well deserved.

21zyir.jpg
 
Watched the video....BEST part (for me anyways) when you first turned the key and fired her up. The familiar "Chrysler" starter motor spinning the BB mopar motor is always the best part!! I must have replayed the beginning 3 or 4 times in a row,lol.
 
on the conv top: oil the joints on both sides, wd-40 oil any other oil will do. you should also make sure it's not tight against the outside of the well, sometimes they get that way and the wide rail brushes too hard against the inner part of the qtr panel and they get 'stuck'. you should also take the rear seat backrest out and take a good look at the cylinders/motor to make sure the lines are full of fluid and no leaks or other wetness is present. and make sure you work it up and down a bunch of tiems to make sure the cylinder is free when it is down in the lowered position.
 
How do the brakes feel now?

I found my problem. I decided that my problem was with the master and that maybe I didn't bench bleed it long enough. When I removed it I discovered that the little tab that holes the internal parts in place had slid down and the wasn't keeping everything in place. After about a half hour I got the master bleed and reinstalled it. I bleed each drum and the pedal feels good. I am going to get my new tires and wheels tomorrow and then take it out for a real spin,

Thanks everyone for the kind words. I would have never made this much progress without all your advice. Cheers!:eek:ccasion14:

Bryan you are very confused, get used to the Urban era Go Bucks!
 
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Are you ready for love? Obviously you are.


So many things to say......

1st You have a brake light out, right outer.
2nd This is the most important, Never, ever , ever drive with the top down and the windows up. Even if they are broken then the top must stay up. It is just so aggravating, frustrating and uncool to drive with top down and ANY windows up.
3rd I would replace that left top cylinder. I noticed your top didn't stay up when left in the raising position( not to mention it didnt want to raise), I think you have a leak in the system or in that cylinder.
4th The car sounds great
5th Man after my own heart, 8 degrees outside and the top down, with a coat on :icon_thumright:
6th ..... we wanna see the wheels
 
Bryan you are very confused, get used to the Urban era Go Bucks!

Oh well we ain't above a little Urban Renewal,,, One thing is for sure.. the next few years are gonna be fun!!! Don't forget, even your Coach's initials are UM...

We will agree that slab Chrysler convertibles are fantastic...
:yourock:
 
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Are you ready for love? Obviously you are.


So many things to say......

1st You have a brake light out, right outer.
2nd This is the most important, Never, ever , ever drive with the top down and the windows up. Even if they are broken then the top must stay up. It is just so aggravating, frustrating and uncool to drive with top down and ANY windows up.
3rd I would replace that left top cylinder. I noticed your top didn't stay up when left in the raising position( not to mention it didnt want to raise), I think you have a leak in the system or in that cylinder.
4th The car sounds great
5th Man after my own heart, 8 degrees outside and the top down, with a coat on :icon_thumright:
6th ..... we wanna see the wheels

1. Bought and installed new bulb.
2. One of my pet peeves too. The back windows won't go down. If the top is down every window should be down even if it's 8 degrees.
3/4 Thanks
5. It's a convertible, the first drive has to be with the top down, but it actually was about 50.
6. I had them mounted today, will install them tomorrow. I little contoversy will ensue with the wheel/tire selection. I will let you guys debate that after you see them, but I love the combo. I will post pictures tomorrow.
 
Oh well we ain't above a little Urban Renewal,,, One thing is for sure.. the next few years are gonna be fun!!! Don't forget, even your Coach's initials are UM...

We will agree that slab Chrysler convertibles are fantastic...
:yourock:

Thanks and I am looking forward to the renewed rivalry. We now have two coaches that get it. I love the little stabs at each others teams, that's what makes a good rivalry.:director:
 
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