How to properly measure MC / Pushrod length? - Back to the Brakes!

Isaiah Estrada

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Things have been slowly but surely gaining momentum on the 68. As you may recall, we finally got it running, and more than that - running GOOD! Take a look-see here, after our friend helped me tune her up (for now.)



I am now turning my focus onto other things like getting my wiring in order. I am debating whether or not the 21 circuit wiring harness from Painless Wiring would be a good way to take care of things, or just replace each wire in the harness individually and back into the connectors they came in…

I would like to have the dashboard back inside, and functioning, same for the heater box cause I am NOT trying to install it with the dashboard in… Reason being, this car really needs an exhaust. If I can get the dash / heater box back inside I can move the car onto a trailer. But oh! Car can only move so much if it doesn’t have brakes… which brings me to this.

4085C627-8477-4B23-A275-9C8FD8DA5ECE.jpeg

EC40D935-B08E-41A4-A005-5ADD558F6E6C.jpeg

New to me brake booster rebuilt by Booster Dewey! I repainted it to match the look of the rest of my engine compartment components. The car has C Body discs from a 72 Fury and now I need to get them all plumbed up.

6F2D52AB-5BB0-4F76-9288-392C5EB5E3BC.jpeg


Yes I know the dip stick needs to be moved (I moved it after I took this pic.) Got a new MC and I clear coated it to prevent rust from happening. What I’m unsure of, is - how do I know how long the push rod should be? I am really unsure of this and figured I’d ask the pros on what I should look for and how to properly measure this so the brakes work at their best potential! I appreciate the help and advice as always.
 
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Things have been slowly but surely gaining momentum on the 68. As you may recall, we finally got it running, and more than that - running GOOD! Take a look-see here, after our friend helped me tune her up (for now.)



I am now turning my focus onto other things like getting my wiring in order. I am debating whether or not the 21 circuit wiring harness from Painless Wiring would be a good way to take care of things, or just replace each wire in the harness individually and back into the connectors they came in…

I would like to have the dashboard back inside, and functioning, same for the heater box cause I am NOT trying to install it with the dashboard in… Reason being, this car really needs an exhaust. If I can get the dash / heater box back inside I can move the car onto a trailer. But oh! Car can only move so much if it doesn’t have brakes… which brings me to this.

View attachment 577476
View attachment 577477
New to me brake booster rebuilt by Booster Dewey! I repainted it to match the look of the rest of my engine compartment components. The car has C Body discs from a 72 Fury and now I need to get them all plumbed up.

View attachment 577478

Yes I know the dip stick needs to be moved (I moved it after I took this pic.) Got a new MC and I clear coated it to prevent rust from happening. What I’m unsure of, is - how do I know how long the push rod should be? I am really unsure of this and figured I’d ask the pros on what I should look for and how to properly measure this so the brakes work at their best potential! I appreciate the help and advice as always.

Here is a link to proper measurement process.
 
A general rule of thumb for Mopar brakes (if one doesn't have the gauge suggested by @Big_John), is to adjust the push rod so it holds the master cylinder away from its mounting surface and that of the booster 1/16th of an inch when placing the master on the 4 booster studs by hand. Bolt it down after that.

Apparently what this does is preload the hydraulic system of the brakes properly.

This method has worked perfectly for me on all Mopar boosters I've used.
 
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