How to rebuild Chrysler Power Window motor clutch assembly

Here's what to buy- hardware store nuts...they are metal, will never fail, and work perfectly (a 7/16 socket fits these in case you're wondering)

Is this supposed to be a tight fit with the nuts? I used a metric M7 nut (11mm wrench size, 7/16 nut is 11.1mm) and I have aprox. 5-10mm of play in the gear from stop to stop.
 
Do you want me to send you some real American nuts?
 
Haha, Thanks Matt! :sFl_america2:

I can get them here too, but I don't think .10 mm (.004inch) would make a difference.
I'm just curious because of the play in the gear with the nuts. I'm not sure if it is supposed to have "that much" play. Seems to create a lot of stress at the start and end of the window lift to the plastic gear?!
 
theres a fella l know in Idaho that gos this route

brake line and gas line hose...
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I like this solution better than the steel nut one for three reasons. First, the flexible hose acts like a shock absorber when reversing the window direction of travel, i.e. no metal on metal clunk. Secondly, steel nuts being harder than the white metal casing will cause wear and I'd rather replace a worn out the puck than the whole gear housing. Finally, those pictures show the rebuild Paul did on my car, so I've got to love his solution. My windows work perfectly, better in fact than when they were new.
 
Is this supposed to be a tight fit with the nuts? I used a metric M7 nut (11mm wrench size, 7/16 nut is 11.1mm) and I have aprox. 5-10mm of play in the gear from stop to stop.

A little play is required, as I mentioned in the article...5-10 mm? You'll be fine.
 
Note: You should be able to grab the gear and hmove it a bit after assembly..as mentioned sixteenth to eighth of an inch play is enough.

I've overread that somehow! That was what I'm searching for!

My thought was also that the nuts may wear the plastic gear. I also like the rubber puk sollution. I will have to look again what to do.

Thanks guys!
 
If or when I need to revisit this I'll try the rubber hose version but my nuts are working fine.
 
I like this solution better than the steel nut one for three reasons. First, the flexible hose acts like a shock absorber when reversing the window direction of travel, i.e. no metal on metal clunk. Secondly, steel nuts being harder than the white metal casing will cause wear and I'd rather replace a worn out the puck than the whole gear housing. Finally, those pictures show the rebuild Paul did on my car, so I've got to love his solution. My windows work perfectly, better in fact than when they were new.

Is the steel brake line 3/16" or 1/4"?
 
This is another reason why I love FCBO. The brightest and best car guys on the dang planet!!!

Bar none!!!!

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Does anyone have nos or reman unused pucks and can tell me the diameter of the original ones?
 
For me, the nuts are too hard and will probably damage the plastic gear over time and I would fear that the brake hose solution is too soft with the result that they will wear and get damaged too fast.

So here is my solution. Nr. 3:

First, here is a stock configuration. Good to see what the base problem is on this motors.
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I used POM-C, which is a special thermoplast used on heavy duty industrial rollers, gears or guides etc.
I bought a 12mm stick of it on Ebay for under 2 bucks. The bummer was, that it actually was 12,6mm and would not fit. So I mounted it to my column drill and sanded it down to 12mm (+- 0.2mm). Voila, perfect fit.
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Nice, durable and easy solution Nr 3 to fix the Window Lift Motors.

I only had to make Puks for 2 Motors because my two quarter window motors had different drives.
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Damned impressive Julian. I think I might have a man crush...
 
LOL oh no... a "Bro-mance" I did the same repair on one of the motors that runs the headlight doors on my Lotus. Now that i see the newer repair I was just thinking that the large diameter hot glue sticks might work instead of the steel nuts... Just cut them to length and bingo good as new! I might t give it a try and let you know.
 
LOL oh no... a "Bro-mance" I did the same repair on one of the motors that runs the headlight doors on my Lotus. Now that i see the newer repair I was just thinking that the large diameter hot glue sticks might work instead of the steel nuts... Just cut them to length and bingo good as new! I might t give it a try and let you know.

The glue sticks are very soft and would wear very fast. I don't see them working.

The POM-C (also known as Delrin and a bunch of other trade names) would be my material of choice for a replacement.
 
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