How to rebuild Chrysler Power Window motor clutch assembly

78Brougham said:
LOL oh no... a "Bro-mance" I did the same repair on one of the motors that runs the headlight doors on my Lotus. Now that i see the newer repair I was just thinking that the large diameter hot glue sticks might work instead of the steel nuts... Just cut them to length and bingo good as new! I might t give it a try and let you know.
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Big_John said:
The glue sticks are very soft and would wear very fast. I don't see them working.

The POM-C (also known as Delrin and a bunch of other trade names) would be my material of choice for a replacement.
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I ordered a stick of Polyamid PA6 with the POM-C which is much harder then a glue stick and still too soft. The POM-C is the way to go.
POM C is applicable in the temperature range from -40 to + 140 °C. Due to the excellent glide and wear behaviour, POM C engineering plastics are often used for track rollers, gear wheels or guides in the machinery construction.
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vdk2010 said:
I ordered a stick of Polyamid PA6 with the POM-C which is much harder then a glue stick and still too soft. The POM-C is the way to go.
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My second choice would be UHMW. That is a little softer than Delrin, but is near to Teflon for friction and would work quite well for this.
 
I'm in germany, so my seller won't help you but just check Ebay for POM-C Rod 12mm or Delrin Rod 12mm.
 
Overkill. The nut solution works perfectly, no fiddling to get dimensions right, and the forces generated do not result in the metal nuts mangling the gearhead...but your time is your own.
 
To each his own! Sure. But I thing there was a reason the Chrysler engeneers build it the way they did instead of using steel puks. The puks are the cheapest predetermined breaking point on this motors for a reason.
Everyone can do it the way he prefers, but I, for me want to find the best, reasonable way I can to do things on my restoration.
I like doing this, I mean, hey I polish every part down to the nut and bolt, even when they are invasible on the car later, just because I like to. :happy3:
 
I know MrC is right, the nuts are a fine fix but my hat is off to Julian for being a trailblazer and a bit nuts himself.
 
I'm sure the nuts work as well and I'm happy MrC guided me in the right direction on this fix!

I'm nuts for sure, a lot of people tell me that over and over again, but I take this as a compliment ;)
 
How exactly does the window behave with a worn gear.

I had a balky window. Needed help going up and down. I thought it was a weak motor. Installed new motor using gear from the old one. Same problem.

Worn gear or problem with the regulator or the track?
 
commando1 said:
How exactly does the window behave with a worn gear.

I had a balky window. Needed help going up and down. I thought it was a weak motor. Installed new motor using gear from the old one. Same problem.

Worn gear or problem with the regulator or the track?
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Sounds like you get to try the gear repair next. That's how they behave when the pucks disintegrate, motor works, but the window doesn't move.
 
I've noticed that the window will cock slightly one direction or the other other a little bit....like it's a track/regulator problem. What it really means is that the pucks are close to failing.
 
:BangHead::BangHead::BangHead:
:rant::rant::rant:

This will be the 6TH time that specific door panel has to come off.
Those effen clips are destroying that cardboard.
 
I have to sort out the same problem with windows on my Polara. Drivers window comes up and down staggered and other three aren't even working.

Should I get the motors all out and see what's wrong with them or is there an easier test?
 
Pana.Mopar said:
I have to sort out the same problem with windows on my Polara. Drivers window comes up and down staggered and other three aren't even working.

Should I get the motors all out and see what's wrong with them or is there an easier test?
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If you can hear the motor working but are getting no movement, that's going to be for sure the pucks being bad. Sometimes it's the switches- if the contacts are corroded, then no power gets to the motor. All you need to do is check for power at the motors to see what's happening.
 
Mr C said:
If you can hear the motor working but are getting no movement, that's going to be for sure the pucks being bad. Sometimes it's the switches- if the contacts are corroded, then no power gets to the motor. All you need to do is check for power at the motors to see what's happening.
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Yeah thanks Mr C. Will definitely be checking to see if there's power first and then go from there.. Thanks so much Members for the advice and information.
 
No doubt.....The best C-Body guys on the planet are right here on FCBO!
 
Mr C said:
Place rebuilt clutch.
Ensure it's well lubricated between the outer clutch and the threaded gear in the motor housing too.
Replace cover with the Phillips screw.
You're done...better than new!

Note: You should be able to grab the gear and hmove it a bit after assembly..as mentioned sixteenth to eighth of an inch play is enough.

I hope it was useful.

View attachment 10147

View attachment 10148

View attachment 10149
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It looks like you place a dab of grease on the teeth as well?
 
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