I need a new radiator for Goldie

Zymurgy

Old Man with a Hat
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I sent my radiator to be flushed and pressure tested. It made it to 10 lbs and that was it. They offer to re-core, but that would cost $350. I see everyone carries the Spectra radiator for around $220 range. I was just going to buy the Spectra any reason not to.
 
Don't you want to keep the original tanks? That would be a big oversight on your engine bay resto.


This is true I don't know what I was thinking, just when I thought my brain was back to normal after surgery.
 
I'd recore the original because I love original parts. Mike if you buy a new one and your old one is original to the car, please keep it with the car.
 
I did an aluminum radiator last fall and I absolutely love it. It looks good, cools faster and keeps a constant temp level under any condition I've seen thus far (sitting for long periods of time, highway,etc). It works fantastic. I keeped the old one stored away cause I can't bring myself to toss it....a sacrilege.

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and thats fine for you , your car is not original... but they do look good
 
Yes, they do. I think the 100% original thing is a bit "anal", but I know its choice also.


It can be anal....... I have gotten out of control with my convertible, almost to the point I dont enjoy it.

My 71 is just as uncommon BUT I play with that much more freely
 
My 2 cents if you get it re-cored make sure the core looks like and as thick as original core i.e. fin count(big gaps between fins or tight like oe and spacing (how close tubes are to each other)and if yours was 2 core new one maybe 2 core but tubes are smaller(thickness), all of which adds up to reduced cooling from original. As with everything these days they make stuff that fits but is really sub-par parts.
 
It can be anal....... I have gotten out of control with my convertible, almost to the point I dont enjoy it.

My 71 is just as uncommon BUT I play with that much more freely
I know its a personal choice. Maybe anal is too strong of a term....but I've just seen people at car shows sweat the most tiniest infinitesimal things, but hey what the hell if it floats their boat then I'll get out of the way and god can bless them.
 
It all depends on 2 things.
How original do you want the car to look and money.

1. Rebuild the original.
2. Aluminum, I just put a Champion in my car, $200 shipped.
3. Griffin mages an aluminum one that looks like factory, best of both worlds but $700

My CHP project will get an original rebuilt.

Alan
 
My 2 cents if you get it re-cored make sure the core looks like and as thick as original core i.e. fin count(big gaps between fins or tight like oe and spacing (how close tubes are to each other)and if yours was 2 core new one maybe 2 core but tubes are smaller(thickness), all of which adds up to reduced cooling from original. As with everything these days they make stuff that fits but is really sub-par parts.

Thanks for the tip and advice. They actually re-cored my MGB about 10 years ago. They told me I would never overheat my car again, the factory radiator wasn't sufficient to keep the car cool enough on a 90 degree day. They said it would cool the car better and he was right never an issue again.
 
I know its a personal choice. Maybe anal is too strong of a term....but I've just seen people at car shows sweat the most tiniest infinitesimal things, but hey what the hell if it floats their boat then I'll get out of the way and god can bless them.

I agree I won't be the guy with the correct Chrysler hoses and the overpriced "correct" negative battery ground wire. However I am nixing the red heater hoses and the chrome coil.

For me personally, I'm on the fence for the exact correct ignition wires, but I will probably at least change them to the right color combination. If the period correct is just marginally more I will buy it, but if you really need to inspect it closely to tell a difference I'm not interested in taking it to that level.
 
I agree I won't be the guy with the correct Chrysler hoses and the overpriced "correct" negative battery ground wire. However I am nixing the red heater hoses and the chrome coil.

For me personally, I'm on the fence for the exact correct ignition wires, but I will probably at least change them to the right color combination. If the period correct is just marginally more I will buy it, but if you really need to inspect it closely to tell a difference I'm not interested in taking it to that level.
do what's best for you...that's all that counts.
 
I agree I won't be the guy with the correct Chrysler hoses and the overpriced "correct" negative battery ground wire. However I am nixing the red heater hoses and the chrome coil.

For me personally, I'm on the fence for the exact correct ignition wires, but I will probably at least change them to the right color combination. If the period correct is just marginally more I will buy it, but if you really need to inspect it closely to tell a difference I'm not interested in taking it to that level.

I guess I'm that guy. The devil is in the details and it's what sets nicely restored cars apart from fine examples.

Mopar Hoses and Date Coded Plug Wires:


Correct Black Positive Cable that was custom made to match my original by my buddy at M&H Electrical.


My theory is, if the cost is nominal, why not buy the correct parts? I think it makes a difference.
 
I guess I'm that guy. The devil is in the details and it's what sets nicely restored cars apart from fine examples.

Mopar Hoses and Date Coded Plug Wires:


Correct Black Positive Cable that was custom made to match my original by my buddy at M&H Electrical.


My theory is, if the cost is nominal, why not buy the correct parts? I think it makes a difference.

That is beautiful!! Compared to that, my engine bay looks like someone took a dump in it!
 
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