I need a new radiator...
- Thread starter commando1
- Start date
Youve been here two years and 101 posts..... you need to get out more
1Fury1
Slab Side Slacker
I'm a slow talker i guess, usually a day late and a dollar short on these conversations.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Three you live in Florida. No the flaps are on back of radiator and require no driver involvement.
Oh look I went over a 1000 and missed the blessed event.
Oh look I went over a 1000 and missed the blessed event.
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1Fury1
Slab Side Slacker
Oh look I went over a 1000 and missed the blessed event.[/QUOTE said:
1Fury1
Slab Side Slacker
Forget that. On closer look it was actually a bill for the shipping of my new radiator with the pull through fans.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
I went with a 2 row Champion but I do only have a 318. I also needed to drill 2 holes but they did not list one for a small block C body.
It works but I haven't put it to the test yet.
Alan
It works but I haven't put it to the test yet.
Alan
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Now I have radiators on my banner ads try them Stan
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If you're going to use an aluminum unit at least paint it black or maybe cut the bottom off of the top tank and put it over the aluminum like a hat to cover that ****.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
As a daily driver where the hood isn't opened for display the Champion would be fine. Just put the original in storage.
Alan
Alan
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
The aluminum is a better rad if your not using original
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Sorry to burst your bubble, but there's absolutely NOTHING correct about a 4spd transmission in a "New Yorker". Nothing at all. Swiss cheese and Preparation H have more in common.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
snore, snore, snore.
fc7_plumcrazy
Old Man with a Hat
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I would not want an aluminium radiator in my engine bay.
I would recore the original one (if it is really the correct one).
It is ok to puzzle a lower condition car together to keep it on the road but a nice one?
Needs to be done right.
Carsten
I would recore the original one (if it is really the correct one).
It is ok to puzzle a lower condition car together to keep it on the road but a nice one?
Needs to be done right.
Carsten
You should be able to get away with a good 3 row original type core, i.e. the copper/brass core, not the aluminum ones. What really matters the most is the fin density more than the number of rows. I bought a Modine Heavy Duty replacement for one of my 383 engines with 4 rows, and it was one of the worst radiator cores I every tried. It has really poor fin density.
What I do is go with an original top tank and then recore with a very high fin density original type replacement core. The core that works best for me is the High Efficiency one built by Craig. It is really tightly woven with a wealth of rows of tubes going horizontially from left to right. The number of rows of tubes is 3 going the depth of the radiator core. I can't get my 440s with this radiator core to go above 200F even on a 105F degree day in California with the a/c on full blast and idling in gear at a stop or extended traffic jam. Florida conditions would also be a real test of a radiator. If you want the best cooling, regardless of appearance (which matters to me at least) then the aluminum radiators would be the way to go in hot Florida.
What I do is go with an original top tank and then recore with a very high fin density original type replacement core. The core that works best for me is the High Efficiency one built by Craig. It is really tightly woven with a wealth of rows of tubes going horizontially from left to right. The number of rows of tubes is 3 going the depth of the radiator core. I can't get my 440s with this radiator core to go above 200F even on a 105F degree day in California with the a/c on full blast and idling in gear at a stop or extended traffic jam. Florida conditions would also be a real test of a radiator. If you want the best cooling, regardless of appearance (which matters to me at least) then the aluminum radiators would be the way to go in hot Florida.
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Ah, well that's the model T crowd speaking I suppose. Boring and lame are key descriptors to be used. How many times can one look at totally stock engine compartments before finally thinking "you seen one, you seem them all". What next? Date coded air in tires with date coded and correct dirt between the tire treads? Boring, droll and limp to say the least. What it is really indicative of one could say is lack of creative vision and fortitude. It is safe and easy to look just like the next guy, and the next guy, and the next guy, and the next guy..
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Those OEM style radiators look like a bolt in. The issues with them may be the shroud mount tabs...they look different in the pics than on an OEM rad. The last time I bought one of these for a daily driver, there were no fan shroud tabs and I had to make them. Plus the tanks have no factory markings and the ridges are different than OEM. The "new" stuff will no doubt be of thinner material and "feel" cheaper...as well( again my impression from the one I bought). I doubt that the core will be as beefy as the original. I don't remember the manufacturer.
I too am rather particular about my engine bay look and normally opt to recore my original rads, as I have found it's the only way to keep me happy.
I too am rather particular about my engine bay look and normally opt to recore my original rads, as I have found it's the only way to keep me happy.
Lack of effort or those who want bling , which was it for you Gary?
70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
Anything that is not stock....is bling? seriously?
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