Imperial Gauges

Imperial

  1. dunderhead

    dunderhead New Member

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    Hi guys, I've recently acquired a 1972 Imperial 4door hardtop.

    It a bit of of a mess at the moment but I'm gradually trying to get it at least roadworthy.

    Sorry my first post is a question but... my biggest issue at the moment is the gauges. I seem to have very little going on there. None of them are registering anything. I am getting an illuminated "check gauges" light and I know if i draining the brake fluid I also get a brake warning light.

    My main targets that I'd really like to get working is my Oil Pressure and Temperature Gauge. Just so i know she's not damaging the engine while I'm working on the other bits and pieces.

    I was hoping it was just a ground issue and I'd be able to remove the cluster and have a look at the back. I had a go at this on Saturday but got a bit stuck - the cluster was free and moving but wouldn't come out forward. I was a bit worried damaging stuff so I cried off. I've since done a bit of reading and I think i need to drop an A/C tube from the bottom and the remove the radio downwards then look at taking the cluster out forward.

    All the above was just a first stab, and i realised I was a bit out of my depth. So I was hoping there might be a bit knowledge available about common failure modes etc or just the first places to start checking.

    Any help appreciated and once again apologies my first post is a help request.


    Thanks


    DunderHead
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2019
  2. Snotty

    Snotty Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Welcome Dunder! There are a number of Imperial people on this site, so I am sure you will get some answers soon.

    Enjoy, and good luck!
     
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  3. ImpJay

    ImpJay The different young

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    At first you should check the voltage limiter, which is located into one thing, but I can´t get the specific one in my mind right now. Most of the gauges function on 5A current.


    There´s a sending unit on top of the engine located far back on the block and that´s supposed to send the oil pressure to the gauge.

    For the temp gauge there´s a nipple for the censor located behind of the heater hoses. Check if a cable does go there, as the original gauge is mechanical.


    The fuel sending unit has a ground cable going to one of the lines (charcoal purge canister, obviously fuel and...) running from the tank to the engine compartment. At first check the contact as it may be a bad ground. If that didn´t help but the gauge did measure with another ground, you should replace the fuel sending unit.

    The A/C ducts A/C+heater controls, radio, headlight switch etc. must be taken out to get the gauge cluster away.

    4.8.2019 II 002.jpg

    Welcome and congratulations for owning an awesome automobile. :thumbsup:
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2019
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  4. dunderhead

    dunderhead New Member

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    Thanks much appreciated, hopefully I'll have more luck on second attack.

    At the very least knowing where the Oil Pressure sender is I should be able hook up a temporary gauge to at least check I'm not destroying my engine. <- I changed the Oil Filter the weekend before and ended up reading the threads on here about brand new filters not flowing. I've been putting off running her up till I can prove I have oil pressure
     
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  5. DocMcNeedy

    DocMcNeedy "Iggy my Mc-Bum-Fuk" FCBO Gold Member

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    Welcome to the forum. This black one actually doesn't have factory temp gauge working so I plan on an aftermarket installation like was done on my white one soon so I can at least monitor it while driving it this season. I watch gauges about as close as I watch the road.
    20190903_112906.jpg 20190903_134132.jpg 20190903_134142.jpg 20190526_104030.jpg
     
  6. ImpJay

    ImpJay The different young

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    A correction to my first post: the voltage limiter is built in to the low fuel relay.

    The vacuum canister at the rear of the engine is for the automatic parking brake release.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2019
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  7. Imperial Pete

    Imperial Pete New Member

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    Dunderhead,
    Had the same issue with my 71. All 3 gauges weren't working (fuel, oil pressure, temp). Mine was the radio noise suppressor, the Imperials have one fitted in line between the voltage limiter and the dash gauge connection. I thought it was the voltage limiter. Definitely check that all of your gauge sender units have the wires connected to them.
     
  8. dunderhead

    dunderhead New Member

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    Hi guys just an update to the above.

    I finally wrestled my dash out. I'm pretty sure I did everything backwards cos everything was super awkward to but they're out.

    I bench tested all the gauges off of the multi connection pins and on the posts themselves and got nothing.

    I undid everything and had a bit of a scrub about with a fibreglass pen and some emory paper. I gradually got each gauge in turn responding to direct input. I cleaned up the boards track and got them working off the multi connector. So the dash itself is now working.

    I ran out of time today but next week I'll put a multi meter across the connectors themselves and check for continuity back to the sender's and signal.

    I'm not expecting them to be right straight aways but it is good to know the gauges themselves are working now. They could have been the only issue but I'm expecting at least some more work.

    Thanks for the assistance and helpful suggestions
     
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  9. DocMcNeedy

    DocMcNeedy "Iggy my Mc-Bum-Fuk" FCBO Gold Member

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    Did you take your complete dash out?

    20190907_093619.jpg 20190907_093702.jpg
     
  10. Fury440

    Fury440 At my age everything's a good idea

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    Sounds like you eventually solved this problem, but for others contemplating pulling their gauge clusters, the culprit will be the speedometer cable. Took me a few tries before I figured that one out!
    :canada::thumbsup::thumbsup: