You can always get some of this stuff to add during an oil change from Advance Auto Parts...
Intake manifold removal
- Thread starter mgm1986
- Start date
mgm1986
Active Member
You can always get some of this stuff to add during an oil change from Advance Auto Parts...
I couldn't find the supplement however I lucked out and got the zinc oil itself. I will drain the new oil out since I fear something may have fallen into the valley below the intake manifold and I'm hoping to find it when I drain the oil!
mgm1986
Active Member
Alright guys and gals, new day, new diagnostics.
Using Carb cleaner I found a vaccum leak around the carburetor on the drivers side, it seems to be one of the gaskets itself even though they look like new. And the manifold to carb gasket is indeed new. I am going to try and use black rtv and my finger to coat the seals around the carb and see if that helps.
Now for the timing. Without a light, I was able to get the timing to a couple/few degrees before TDC. Using a light, I set the timing to 10 deg before TDC and if I am reading my FSM correctly is the ideal timing for the 318.
But it doesnt want to stay and keeps going back to 15+ before TDC after revving the engine.
What would cause this to happen?
Using Carb cleaner I found a vaccum leak around the carburetor on the drivers side, it seems to be one of the gaskets itself even though they look like new. And the manifold to carb gasket is indeed new. I am going to try and use black rtv and my finger to coat the seals around the carb and see if that helps.
Now for the timing. Without a light, I was able to get the timing to a couple/few degrees before TDC. Using a light, I set the timing to 10 deg before TDC and if I am reading my FSM correctly is the ideal timing for the 318.
But it doesnt want to stay and keeps going back to 15+ before TDC after revving the engine.
What would cause this to happen?
66SportFury
Senior Member
Holy crap,.that's pretty bad. That's not the new motor is it?
66SportFury
Senior Member
It could be the advance weights/springs in the dizzy or the vacuum advance is slow returning. Does it go back eventually to 10? Do you still have a miss?
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I agree, check the mechanical advance weights.
If there is any oil getting up into the distributor then after time it hardens up causing timing issues.
If the internals are gummed up it will cause the timing to act strangely..
You want those wieghts to snap back into place if you twist the rotor and let go of it.
If it doesn't then you have sticky advance weights..
A shot of carb spray or less corrosive like WD-40 down into the distributor shaft should free things up.
Worst case is removing the dist and pulling the points/reluctor plate off that hides the weights to clean things up
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
If you are refering to the pics I posted showing my engine here, then no this is the original engine I had in my car.
My new engine is as clean as can be..
mgm1986
Active Member
It feels like it still has a slight miss and a definite vacuum leak that I need to find and fix. I put a test light on all the plug wires and confirmed all plugs are at least getting spark. I have not done a compression test yet, but I did buy the gauge to do it if need be.
I will need to leave it run longer and see if it returns to 10. I will dig up how to check the dizzy weights/springs but if I still have a definite vacuum leak, would that affect the vacuum advance from returning?
Where did you say you are in NJ?! ;-)
66SportFury
Senior Member
If you are refering to the pics I posted showing my engine here, then no this is the original engine I had in my car.
My new engine is as clean as can be..
Cool,.I was worried..LOL..
mgm1986
Active Member
This could be the issue, the distributor did not look very clean when I had it out and there is a small amount of oil in the top where the rotor goes. I assumed this was just a lubricant for the distributor.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I'm in Ontario.. a bit of a trek if you are asking me but it is easy to check the dizzy weights.
pop the cap off and grab the rotor to see if it can turn slightly left or right. can't remember..
It should move slightly in one direction and then when released snap back to the original location.
If not then you need to do some cleaning to free things up.
Check your vacuum advance as well.
You can do that with a vacuum pump of by a hose atached to the advance and sucking real hard with your mouth. (Please no luid comments)
if things don't move internally then again there is issues to be dealt with!
but it is easy to check the dizzy weights.pop the cap off and grab the rotor to see if it can turn slightly left or right. can't remember..
It should move slightly in one direction and then when released snap back to the original location.
If not then you need to do some cleaning to free things up.
Check your vacuum advance as well.
You can do that with a vacuum pump of by a hose atached to the advance and sucking real hard with your mouth. (Please no luid comments)
if things don't move internally then again there is issues to be dealt with!
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
here is a video showing how to check things
It's a Moss video but the basics are all the same..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFfnenMFQ3U
It's a Moss video but the basics are all the same..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFfnenMFQ3U
mgm1986
Active Member
Awesome, thanks! I'm gonna go suck on it now
I was just joking with 66Sport fury, I think he is in NJ.
I was just joking with 66Sport fury, I think he is in NJ.
66SportFury
Senior Member
I live in Tuckerton, NJ. If you want to drive the car down,.I'll give it a look over and do a super tune to it!
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I SAID NO LUID COMMENTS!!!!! :sSig_lol3:
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
sounds good! once I have mine back together I'll be down there!
Oh, wait a minute.. you meant the other guy...
ops:mgm1986
Active Member
Tuckerton is basically down the road! Let me check the distributor and see how it goes. I may take you up on that offer though!!
mgm1986
Active Member
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I was kidding too.
No apologies needed
Just having some fun!
Good luck with the repairs.
It's been interesting
66SportFury
Senior Member
Its ok, to have a little bit of oil where the rotor slides on the shaft, but if there's any other oil in there, that's no good. It's pretty simple really,.remove the springs from the weights,.remove the weights clean them good reinstall with a very light coat of high temp grease where the weights pivot. You're done. I know the car is stock, but you can get lighter
springs so the advance comes in faster.
Also,.is it a stock points dizzy? They had points right? I'm pretty sure they did,..anyway,.switch it over to electronic when you have the chance. If it does have points,.did you set them before setting the timing? I'm pretty sure they should be set to dwell specs are 28 to 32 degrees. Set the dwell at 30 and then set the timing.
Sorry one more thing,.set the timing to a total advance of 36 to 40 and don't worry about initial. Take it for a ride to see if it pings,.if so drop down the total to 34 to 38 and go from there,.but use fresh Shell V-Power gas if you can get it. Don't run **** gas in it...never!!
And yes,.you can stop by anytime guys. I'm always into talkin MOPARS~~!!
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