Junkyard 383

67fury3kidd

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My name is Ryan and I am 17 years old and I'm trying to get my 67 fury 3 to be a great daily driver, it's decent as of right now. The drivetrain is a junkyard 383 big block with a 727 and 8 3/4 diff running 2.76 gears buty problem is the engine when I got it it was in a 65/66 chrystler Newport 4 door with a 2bbl and i did a compression test and all cylinders were 120 psi and above except for the #7 cylinder was only 90 so i pulled it and dropped it in my fury in a weekend and it ran pretty good so I might a performer intake for it converted it to Chevy HEI ignition with cut to fit spark plug wires and new spark plug gapped to .46 I belive, also had a mid 70's 800 cfm thermolquad professionally rebuild, put headers on it and a full exhaust with an h pipe and flow masters and the problem is that it stalls after accelerating in the middle of traffic and takes a while to get started the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is no good because the timing cover is off a 78 400 due to a rookie error of mine, the engine has 15 ponds of vaccume and my dad helped me get it timed in as close a possible using the vaccume gauge it idles around 950 rpm in park and spudders out and dies after about five minutes also when I accelerate if I don't slowly ease into it from a stop is spudders for 3-6 seconds then takes off like a bat out of hell, if anyone can help please do it's my senior year and I want to drive this car safely
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Nice car. Buy a timing light and do the timing correctly. Put the right timing cover on if you can (It doesn't sound like timing is your issue though). Also, get rid of that 800 CFM Thermojunk. You'll want around a 650-700 CFM Holley or Edelbrock for your 383. Your problem with the lack of off the line acceleration is your accelerator pump. Adjust it down.
 
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I got the thermolquad to help with mpg, I have a timing light and at 3000 rmps the timing is 45-50 degrees advanced but my tdc mark is reliable because the timing mark on the cover isn't correct for this engine, the exact ignition setup is a stock electronic distributor with a designed to drive Chevy HEI module adapter with a msd low impeadence coil
 
I got the thermolquad to help with mpg, I have a timing light and at 3000 rmps the timing is 45-50 degrees advanced but my tdc mark is reliable because the timing mark on the cover isn't correct for this engine, the exact ignition setup is a stock electronic distributor with a designed to drive Chevy HEI module adapter with a msd low impeadence coil
If you want fuel economy, go with EFI. The problem with your Thermoquad is that it is way over-carburating the engine. If you go with a smaller carb, you will have better low-end torque (off the line performance), you will lose your bog and stumbling (though this may be cured by adjusting the accelerator pump), and your gas mileage will actually be better.
 
Welcome to the site, nice car. Pull #1 spark plug, bring it to TDC and put a mark on your timing cover, put a timing tape on the balancer and set your timing. When your finding TDC have a helper slowly turn the crank while you hold a thin screwdriver in the plug hole you will be able to feel the top of the piston when you go over center and the piston goes back down have him back it up until it comes back up and you go over center again and try to get in the middle. This will get you close. The best thing like suggested is to get the right timing cover but with some patience you will get it this way. Like was also said loose the thermoquad not a fan of it, go with a edelbrock you will thank us later.
 
Welcome to the site. Glad to see an intelligent young man like yourself here with a very nice car.

This probably will go 180° against everything you know at this point but, as Will said above, go back to the 2bbl for the time being. Basic stock 383-2's run all day long like a sewing machine. Zero drivability issues unless the 2bbl needs a rebuild which is a piece of cake on these carburetors.
I know a 4bbl sounds sexier but the Thermoquad is a Sonnovagun to dial in. They test the souls of even the most determined. I have a new restored one on the shelf that I took back off because they are more tempermental than a Latina Mistress.

If you absolutely, positively, had it set in concrete that you have to have a 4bbl, put on an Edelbrock Performer 600 with vacuum secondaries and electric choke.
 
Nice car!

I agree that you need to find TDC of #1 and get the timing right, even if that's just to be sure that's not the problem. I think that the zero spot on the timing cover doesn't move any over the years even though the tab is different. I looked around and found this page that shows some of the differences. Timing Covers 440 Source.com

I'd still check TDC though and 50° total is way too much.

The TQ carb is both loved and hated, and it seems to either run great or run really bad. There's a few things that could be causing the problem, most likely the air valve isn't set correctly or the accelerator pump needs adjustment. It's a very complicated carb and when you get past 1974 or so, you start getting into the compromises for emissions and worse yet, you could have a carb set up for a lean burn car. There's also a lot of issues with the phenolic body warping and cracking. Not very many folks can rebuild them correctly and getting simple parts, like metering rods and jets can be tough.

If all those issues didn't exist, the carb would be a good choice, but I'm not so sure if it's going to work out for you or not.

But... Since you have the carb on the car, it's worth spending some time and learning a little about tuning before you buy another carb. There's a lot out on the intrawebs on adjusting this carb, so I'll let you do your own research. I would start with the air valve. It sounds to me like it's opening too fast.

BTW, I've run TQ carbs and I always liked them. My 300 has one now that runs so well, I don't want to even let it see me with a screwdriver in my hand, let alone mess with it.
 
My name is Ryan and I am 17 years old and I'm trying to get my 67 fury 3 to be a great daily driver, it's decent as of right now. The drivetrain is a junkyard 383 big block with a 727 and 8 3/4 diff running 2.76 gears buty problem is the engine when I got it it was in a 65/66 chrystler Newport 4 door with a 2bbl and i did a compression test and all cylinders were 120 psi and above except for the #7 cylinder was only 90 so i pulled it and dropped it in my fury in a weekend and it ran pretty good so I might a performer intake for it converted it to Chevy HEI ignition with cut to fit spark plug wires and new spark plug gapped to .46 I belive, also had a mid 70's 800 cfm thermolquad professionally rebuild, put headers on it and a full exhaust with an h pipe and flow masters and the problem is that it stalls after accelerating in the middle of traffic and takes a while to get started the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is no good because the timing cover is off a 78 400 due to a rookie error of mine, the engine has 15 ponds of vaccume and my dad helped me get it timed in as close a possible using the vaccume gauge it idles around 950 rpm in park and spudders out and dies after about five minutes also when I accelerate if I don't slowly ease into it from a stop is spudders for 3-6 seconds then takes off like a bat out of hell, if anyone can help please do it's my senior year and I want to drive this car safelyView attachment 88784 View attachment 88784 View attachment 88784 View attachment 88785

Ryan: You got a beautiful car there, and it looks like you have done some nice work on it. Welcome to FCBO!
 
Nice car, I agree with 65sporty get true tdc with a piston stop and set timing with true tdc mark. If your accelerator pump is working(2 streams of fuel in front 2 bbls) I would also check floats for weight for some reason TQ floats gain weight over time fuel itself, metals in the fuel, whatever. If they are heavy you will never get the float bowls to maintain proper level( will always be too full) hard to diagnose this flooding condition without being there, but it is my guess with the hard restart.
 
I agree, although your timing marks are off, your main problem sounds like fuel starvation, or a bad accelerator pump. When the engine stalls check to see it you have fuel in the carb. Sometimes the filter in the tank can collapse on heavy acceleration and drive you crazy trying to find it. To check this for sure, get a large can on gas, and a 6 ft. piece of fuel line hose, you will only need a gallon of fuel, run the fuel line into the car and having someone holding the can, drive it and see if it goes away. If you do this test make sure the hose is routed far away from the manifolds, and electrical.
 
Big_John's link is great to explain timing cover differences. From reading it I believe he is correct about the TDC being in the same spot all the covers. It will be easy to check like I suggested. If it's good set your timing, try 10 initial, 36 total degrees. I would recheck the compression I don't like the 90psi on #7.
 
Everyone under the age of twenty-five communicates this way. Ya might as well get used to it. . .
No, I will not get used to it and I don't have to, and I don't give a crap how old someone is! It shows a total lack of intelligence and education on the posters part, and it put's you as a part of the problem by accepting it as standard communication in a already Jacked up, E-bonic, uneducated English language!
 
No, I will not get used to it and I don't have to, and I don't give a crap how old someone is! It shows a total lack of intelligence and education on the posters part, and it put's you as a part of the problem by accepting it as standard communication in a already Jacked up, E-bonic, uneducated English language!

I agree with everything you say. . . However, our progressive education system tolerates and even encourages the destruction of the written word. There is just no use getting stressed out about it anymore.
 
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