Looking to rebuild my carb.. Can someone confirm kit compability

Those thunder avs carbs are nice but its hard to beat a holley. So easy to change jets and tune on
If you were building a cuda or demon to take to the track and adjust the jets for the best performance I'd agree, but most of us c-body guys have cruisers that we just enjoy taking out on a nice trip somewhere. I'd stick with the brand new eddy, nice and reliable.
 
If you were building a cuda or demon to take to the track and adjust the jets for the best performance I'd agree, but most of us c-body guys have cruisers that we just enjoy taking out on a nice trip somewhere. I'd stick with the brand new eddy, nice and reliable.

As I understand it the Holley if factory... if it is in good shape, a cleanup rebuild would be all it needs to cruise. But any one who has struggled with an old worn out carb knows... it ain't always that easy. Holley stopped making money on factory spec carbs as soon as they went out of production, so its understandable they don't fully support those with custom made kits. A $25 dollar kit is unlikely to have all the correct parts and while I don't know about his, my GM factory Holley couldn't be fully deciphered by any of the sources I tried, I got a kit and did what I could... was able to get proper needle and seats from a tuner's kit as the kit I got only had them for adjustable seat carbs. If I continue to want my Holley I would consider replacing the fuel bowls to make that easier... but then I might as well get an eddy at that level of investment.

This guy's in Denmark. Has a nice thread on buying and shipping it over there too. I understand he wants to pay int'l shipping on one large parts order... hopefully I/we didn't put him on information overload. Very nice looking Imperial.
 
BTW to the O.P. the kit you have pictured should be fine for a reseal and clean up, because your carb is working now just needs some freshening. I still think your problem is in ignition system but it is not a bad idea to have the kit anyway, because I'm sure in Denmark the local auto parts store does not have it.
 
BTW to the O.P. the kit you have pictured should be fine for a reseal and clean up, because your carb is working now just needs some freshening. I still think your problem is in ignition system but it is not a bad idea to have the kit anyway, because I'm sure in Denmark the local auto parts store does not have it.

Needle and seat and power valves may not be the same... a stock tune carb is no longer in tune if the parts start changing, but I agree with Dave the gaskets should all work. if its your first time with a carb, lots and lots of pics during disassembly may solve questions on reassembly. Gaskets "fit" backwards... but won't work so be very careful matching up all the openings. Also agree the problem is most likely not the carb, but a cleanup doesn't hurt. One more time... non-stick gaskets will let you clean the bowl or recheck the floats if you have issues down the road.
 
Something not mentioned is the throttle shaft could be worn where it goes through the body. If they are worn where it causing a vacuum leak it would be better to replace the carb with Edelbrock Performer versus have the throttle shaft rebushed.
 
I haven't checked this thread for a few days, and I am amazed, and very positively surprised by the massive, and pleasantly detailed response and advise posted in here, since my last visit. This forum, and it's users are amazing ~ So, thank you, kind C-PPL's, for your very useful input.. and extra thanks to cantflip for the thorough run through of the "brake revival procedure". The wonderful seasons here, will prove themselves useful, for flushing and checking during winter. I'd really prefer to keep the original brake lines, if possible.. but I'm gonna have to flush several times, I guess.

Although my general plan for the Imp, it so keep it as original as humanly possible, I wont having that interfere with getting the engine to run it's best, thus allowing "bolt on upgrades", so based on your various kind advise, I think that I'm gonna do both, and order the Edelbrock, AND a blue gasket kit for the Holly of Summit.. and then drive the Imp with the Edelbrock until some sunny day in the future, when I get around to do a clean-up and "light resto" on the Holly, if it turns out to be in a restorable condition. It SHOULD be, with the claimed 30k mileage, but who knows. A lot of stuff can happen in 46 years. If not, it get's "shelfed".

I got a newer Edelbrock of some sorts on my 300 too, and it runs like a (very aggressive) Swizz clock. Happy to start, great (fantastic actually) throttle response, smooth idle.. pretty much everything a man can ask for from a carb, nothing negative to report at all.

I will of course check both the shop manual, and the internet for the correct (best) plugs, and wires. The carb is pretty well hidden by the air filter "can", but the ignition isn't, so I'd like to keep that (wires) looking as stock as possible. (No fancy chrome neon plug wires). Where should one shop.. is Rock a good place, or do they just have a very wide selection, and the rest is up to the buyer? I find their website one of the easiest of them all to navigate, although it's dated.

About the floor, and the strength of the concrete flooring, it was only about 4 inches to begin with, but the concrete was strong, so although I claimed that we should both go deeper, and do a "column to column" re-cast, strengthened with steel rods / net, to keep the columns from caving in over the car, but ALL the guys present, (4-6 older craftsmen of various sorts), claimed in unity that this solution was more than enough, to support my 4 ton lift... even with the Imp in the air. We went down at least 8 inches, and I made sure to dig about 4 inches in horizontally, UNDER the existing floor. Although all these guys insured me that it would be ROCK steady, I am still not 100% convinced, so I'm gonna test the thing VERY thoroughly with various insured and "expendable" Japanese cars, in gradually increasing sizes, before the Imp is going on. For now, the cement need's time to cure. Of course its cold as hell out there, and I have no time to be there, running the diesel heater to advance the process, so in a few weeks, we will drill, and glue in the "thread rods", with that special killer "anchoring glue". The dudes I "bribed" to help me, told me about several other 2 column lifts having been installed in the other rooms in the same building.

Wow.. it's 03:24.. and I have to work Sunday, so I'm of.. but thanks again.. I will update as something happens!

Thnx agin guys ! :)



Here is 10 more or less random, mostly under carriage pic's.. shot when I changed the oil shortly after arrival..

(Kasper is feeling VERY lucky, to get this condition, buying an un-inspected Imp at auction in MN.. :-D )



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Very nice ride... sounds like you got the right experts to help with the lift... now just make sure the columns are "plumb" when you put it up... they often use shims at the base to get it perfectly straight... they don't work right out of plumb... wear, locks get funny, silly stuff to have to deal with. Rock Auto is an internet based outfit... I always try to find to manufacturers catalog if I worry about part fit... thanks to the internet lots of them are available. that doesn't work if you don't know the brand name of the part and sometimes you have to fin the parent companies website to find the catalogs. good luck
 
Gents.. All this chat about Carb replacement.. Brings me to questions. Can someone direct me to information / posts on the Eddy swap? I hear adapter plates and linkage kits are needed for a stock manifold. Can't afford to swap that out as well, But Carb swap is definitely needed.

Thanks Crew.
 
Gents.. All this chat about Carb replacement.. Brings me to questions. Can someone direct me to information / posts on the Eddy swap? I hear adapter plates and linkage kits are needed for a stock manifold. Can't afford to swap that out as well, But Carb swap is definitely needed.

Thanks Crew.
I think you need a adapter plate, the eddy has a dual bolt pattern but on my brother in laws car he had a adapter until we switched to eddy manifold then we ditched the adapter.
 
Gents.. All this chat about Carb replacement.. Brings me to questions. Can someone direct me to information / posts on the Eddy swap? I hear adapter plates and linkage kits are needed for a stock manifold. Can't afford to swap that out as well, But Carb swap is definitely needed.

Thanks Crew.

Square bore carb + spread bore intake = adapter plate

This was the temp fix after throwing the TQ in the bush but works great!

image.jpg


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Thanks for the info.. Where did you get the Linkage kit? I emailed Summit and they gave me a price for the Card of $348 and linkage kit for $14. Any other company's or sites you can mention?
 
Thanks for the info.. Where did you get the Linkage kit? I emailed Summit and they gave me a price for the Card of $348 and linkage kit for $14. Any other company's or sites you can mention?

Besides summit...
try jegs and edelbrock's where to buy list... once you have part numbers shopping for best price is pretty easy...
 
Once you put on that linkage adaptor part you're all set. Mine was anyway. The 67 and it has cruise.
 
So I had been driving my 63 Fury with a basically stock 440 weekly.I put a 750 Edelbrock 1407 on it last year. It started and ran great , but had a slight flat spot off idle.The car sat for about 6 weeks as I was busy building a garage.

Last week I went and out started it up and it would not idle. If you took your foot off the gas it would die.I thought an idle circuit was plugged, so i choked it out with a rag a couple times from a high idle to stall it and try to suck out a blockage. still no luck. I pulled the idle screws and shot brake cleaner into the idle passages, then compressed air, no change.

I ordered up a kit and pulled the carb. The insides were green and gunky. The accelerator discharge check ball was stuck in it's hole (there's the flat spot). I tore the carb down, (I left the throttle plate shafts in) and soaked it in Chemtool over night.

I put everything back together, no hitches, done maybe a dozen or so Edelbrocks/Carters over the years.

Now I am having a problem with the right side booster venturi dribbling fuel. I took the carb back apart twice thinking it was a high fuel problem, reset the floats, double checked the needle and seat, still doing it.

What should I look at next? I pulled that booster, the tube that feeds it with little holes (emulsion tube?) seems intact and proper.

I am open to suggestions.float.jpg

float.jpg
 
Sounds to me like either you have a nick at the needle/seat or a pin hole on the float. Those are just guesses and require another disassembly... also get rid of whatever fuel you can and find fresh ethanol free stuff. That seems like a lot of corrosion for a year old carb. If it comes apart again, sounds like it will, shake the float to see if you think there is any liquid inside... heavy float/flooding would result. If the corrosion inside was that bad, you may need more cleaning or you may wind up all the way at just replacing it. Some fuel filters clog or start to come apart from the ethanol fuels which are corrosive in the first place... even fresh.

If you have doubts as to the condition of the carb, post detailed pics here and maybe someone will spot something.
 
Gents.. All this chat about Carb replacement.. Brings me to questions. Can someone direct me to information / posts on the Eddy swap? I hear adapter plates and linkage kits are needed for a stock manifold. Can't afford to swap that out as well, But Carb swap is definitely needed.

Thanks Crew.

I think you need a adapter plate, the eddy has a dual bolt pattern but on my brother in laws car he had a adapter until we switched to eddy manifold then we ditched the adapter.

You do need an adapter for both applications...

You need Eddie Adapter 2696 to mount an Eddie carb on a stock Mopar manifold.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2696/10002/-1

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You need Eddie Adapter 2732 to mount an Eddie Carb on an Eddie Manifold...the adapter came in the manifold box with the last 2 manifolds that I bought.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2732/10002/-1

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You will need an Eddie Carb Adapter 1481 to mount linkage.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...147708&searchTerm=edelbrock+1481+carb+adapter


shopping
 
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