Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Replaced drums, shoes, cylinders, hoses and bearings for the front yesterday and today to eliminate a nasty pull to the left, which the FSM advised a course pretty like this to remedy. It did. Used mostly Raybestos stuff from Rock Auto, though I bought shoes from the local VatoZone as they have their lifetime warranty.
For shoes that is well and good, and what they sold me for the rear has served admirably enough so far. ONE MISTAKE I'll soon enough rectify was assuming that their house brand bearing, using the same nomenclature as Timken, would be Timken in a Duralast box. I made this colossal error based on some past experience with parts bought with their shop brand that WERE made by decent makers, but I say now for All:
CHINESEUM ALERT!!! NEVER BUY THEIR SET 2 OR 6 WHEEL BEARINGS FOR YOUR FRONT WHEELS!! CHINESEUM ALERT!!!
The races LOOKED like not too much potmetal was alloyed in them, but the actual roller housings are made of THIN STAMPED METAL!!
I used the crap for now, but am ordering REAL Timken bearings tonight. I just pray the garbage holds up for a week. The hubs were in decent shape, though I notice they are not perfectly matched. One had thicker bearing shoulders with alternating notches. 5 of them, allowing ample room for a punch or drift to seat well on the old races and drive them out. These were Timken BTW. The other had shoulders going all around the hub body, but not as thick as the races so with more care, one can still get a purchase on the race and drive it out. One SK race and one Timken there. The SK race was scratched badly in one spot, causing the inner bearing considerable wear. I suspect THIS was what caused the leftward pull.
After final reassembly with all new parts, Tilly drives and STOPS now, arrow straight!!! So another Happy Ending for This Week.
For shoes that is well and good, and what they sold me for the rear has served admirably enough so far. ONE MISTAKE I'll soon enough rectify was assuming that their house brand bearing, using the same nomenclature as Timken, would be Timken in a Duralast box. I made this colossal error based on some past experience with parts bought with their shop brand that WERE made by decent makers, but I say now for All:
CHINESEUM ALERT!!! NEVER BUY THEIR SET 2 OR 6 WHEEL BEARINGS FOR YOUR FRONT WHEELS!! CHINESEUM ALERT!!!
The races LOOKED like not too much potmetal was alloyed in them, but the actual roller housings are made of THIN STAMPED METAL!!
I used the crap for now, but am ordering REAL Timken bearings tonight. I just pray the garbage holds up for a week. The hubs were in decent shape, though I notice they are not perfectly matched. One had thicker bearing shoulders with alternating notches. 5 of them, allowing ample room for a punch or drift to seat well on the old races and drive them out. These were Timken BTW. The other had shoulders going all around the hub body, but not as thick as the races so with more care, one can still get a purchase on the race and drive it out. One SK race and one Timken there. The SK race was scratched badly in one spot, causing the inner bearing considerable wear. I suspect THIS was what caused the leftward pull.
After final reassembly with all new parts, Tilly drives and STOPS now, arrow straight!!! So another Happy Ending for This Week.
